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95Teal4X4's DD Build, Lots of Pics

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  #91  
Old 12-01-2017, 11:07 AM
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Just found your build thread, pretty cool man. I didnt get to read all of it but I will in my spare times. So you got a miss or rough idle without the money light on? If you have a way to check your fuel pressure I would check it. Wait until it starts idling rough and take note of fuel pressure. If those stupid fuel poppets dont have exactly enough fuel pressure they dont work right. SO if its a weak fuel pump, clogged filter, or plugged fuel pump sock that might be it. Wish I could be there to hear it.
 
  #92  
Old 12-01-2017, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by MountainDew
Just found your build thread, pretty cool man. I didnt get to read all of it but I will in my spare times. So you got a miss or rough idle without the money light on? If you have a way to check your fuel pressure I would check it. Wait until it starts idling rough and take note of fuel pressure. If those stupid fuel poppets dont have exactly enough fuel pressure they dont work right. SO if its a weak fuel pump, clogged filter, or plugged fuel pump sock that might be it. Wish I could be there to hear it.
thanks for the advice on the fuel pressure test. I know the pump is a few years old so i have been getting ready for it. But its not old enough to make me think it will die on me. I have not done a pressure test but after striking out with all this, im going to. And yeh no check engine light of course. Just kind of sputters at idle a bit. It makes a wierd puffing noise not consistently out of the exhaust. I dont think i remember hearing it before the rough idle. I cant explain it. But it has a new magnaflow stainless steel cat and a new dynomax exhaust which worked great for months. So i dont think its an exhaust problem.
 
  #93  
Old 12-02-2017, 11:59 PM
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Alright so i did a fuel pressure test. I didnt do a full leak down test for an hour. I turned the key to on, let the fuel pump prime it. It was steady at 58 psi with engine off for 10 minutes. Then at idle the needle twitched but remained constant at 52 psi. So i dont think its anything in my fuel system.

But since putting the spider injector in, it has dropped down to around 14.5 to 15 mpg. I do a fair amount of highway driving and that number is including some traffic. Before the spider injector i was averaging 16 mpg. I know that the old one use to leak some extra gas in the cylinders when it would sit around and then start rough. I guess its possible the O2 sensor could be dirty and giving a reading that isnt perfect. But before i condemn them, i think i am ging to run some compression tests on the cylinders. With 250k i should probably do it anyway.
 
  #94  
Old 12-03-2017, 12:16 AM
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Nice to know its not your fuel system. I also think your right on par with a compression check. Will be interesting to see the results for a 250000-mile engine.
 
  #95  
Old 12-03-2017, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MountainDew
Nice to know its not your fuel system. I also think your right on par with a compression check. Will be interesting to see the results for a 250000-mile engine.
i am interested to see what i get on my compression test as well. This car has been very well maintained its whole life, so hopefully it isnt too bad.
 
  #96  
Old 01-23-2018, 02:44 PM
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Been a while since i posted. Yes i still have my blazer lol. Since i last posted i put in a new alternator. The bearing in the old alternator finally got so loud it sounded like a turbo and i could smell it burning up inside it. I drove it home keeping an eye on the gauges. I needed it fixed by the next day so i just got one from advanced auto. Unfortunately it is only a 100 amp. But it looks exactly the same as the old one. I thought i had a 140 amp. I dont know.
old alternator:

I actually dont have a picture of the new one yet. But here is a picture of the bracket that holds it that i cleaned up:

Since i had to take the belt off to do the job anyway, i put a new belt on it too.

Since the accident, the passenger rear side body mount right in front of the back wheel has been screwed up so i fixed that 2 weeks ago. I basically did the same procedure as i did before in this thread. The mount had actually tore through the frame mount so it wasnt even doing anything for a while. Here is the old mount:

Here is the new piece i cut out and welded on top:

I ground the edges down till they were smooth then i drilled a bunch if holes around the hole i circled in it instead of using the torch like last time. It went pretty quick. I welded it on and then i sprayed with etch primer, then painted it with bedliner. I think it looks pretty good.


ill be doing some more stuff soon probably. Ill be sure to post pics of what i do. Here is a current pic from a few days ago after i gave it a very needed nice wash and wax.

 
  #97  
Old 01-24-2018, 04:16 AM
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Nice ride.

May want to consider keeping it stock. Not many of these without mods. It looks too good to be modified beyond being able to put it back to stock.
 
  #98  
Old 01-24-2018, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by error_401
Nice ride.

May want to consider keeping it stock. Not many of these without mods. It looks too good to be modified beyond being able to put it back to stock.
Thank You! I dont plan on doing anything crazy to this thing. All the mods i do to it are very subtle. I do my best to keep it looking like the day it rolled off the assembly line because in all the years my parents owned it, my dad all the work himself and that was his work ethic. At the very most, someday a Rough Country 2.5 lift. I am also open to the idea of putting in some small single row 10" light bars in the grill where you wouldnt see them. I would also like to do a few subtle interior mods. Nothing too crazy. It has mainly been more of a restoration so far. New suspension bushings, painting the frame with bedliner and painting the rad support with bedliner. Stuff like that.
 
  #99  
Old 01-30-2018, 03:22 AM
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Same here.

I'll try to keep it stock. And for mods I try to have them in a way that I can put the stock stuff in.

Planning on making a board inlay for the trunk with the aircraft aluminum rails where you can fix hooks for tie-downs.
Some small mods on the A/C controls in order to be able to switch the fan completely off with the heat or vent on. Things like that. Radio is also an issue.

Keep on going - it's great work you do!
 
  #100  
Old 01-30-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by error_401
Same here.

I'll try to keep it stock. And for mods I try to have them in a way that I can put the stock stuff in.

Planning on making a board inlay for the trunk with the aircraft aluminum rails where you can fix hooks for tie-downs.
Some small mods on the A/C controls in order to be able to switch the fan completely off with the heat or vent on. Things like that. Radio is also an issue.

Keep on going - it's great work you do!
You sound just like me😂 anything i take out to mod, i keep and i make it so if i decide to sell it, i can revert it to stock. And thanks for the compliment, i do my best to do good work. If you do good work, it will never let you down. Make sure you do a write up on those mods if you do them.

i just bought some led eagle eye white rock lights on amazon. I would love to wire them in so they flick on with my keyless entry, because at the moment, the only way i know it unlocks or locks is by hearing the locks. I bought the factory gm manual with all the wiring diagrams and i think i see where i can tie them in. I want to put 1 under every door. I'll also have a rocker switch to turn them on and off. I have never done wiring this extensive but i have learned about it in school. Ill use a 5 pin relay.
 


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