Because I use my truck to launch my sailboat, I have always had a fear of my truck sliding back into the water at the ramp. And having grown up near Seattle, think lots of hills, I learned that using Park on the transmission is not a good idea since the weight of a vehicle can jam the Park mechanism pall in the transmission. Hence, I always use the parking brake.

About 15 years ago not long after I got the truck, I though "I'm getting too old for this sh#t" and decided to let the dealer take care of adjusting my parking brake. Long-story, short, it came back worse and I had to learn how to adjust it myself. Back then I only had a Haynes manual. Later I got the full GM Service manual. Neither were very good at helping me. For one, in both they had pictures of the parking brake mechanism at the wheels upside down!

After having to redo the parking brake adjustments, I shared the following advice with another forum member. I've decided to post it here so that I can easily find it again. Perhaps others might find it useful too.

Good Luck!
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When you go to adjust the parking brake shoe adjuster nuts, first back off the equalizer nut on the cable so that there is slack in the system. You'll likely want to spray down the threads with something like PB Blaster, preferably overnight, to free them up. Taking a wire brush to the threads can help too. The nut is a 12 mm and the base of the threads where it is swaged onto the cable is 6mm. You'll only be able to turn the nut about 1/4 turn at a time due to clearance issues. There is no need to disconnect the front half the cable from the rear, although it wouldn't hurt.

Then be sure that the levers that actuate the individual parking brakes at the wheels are in their fully relaxed position so that the adjustment to take up all the slack between the shoes and drum is done correctly. I would also take the the jaws of the pliers to pull the levers forward to expand the shoes to center and fit the shoes to the drum before rotating the rotor on the axle to test for how snug the shoes were. This is where pushing the levers back to their fully relaxed position is required. If too snug or if there is no contact between the shoes and the drum surface, you take the rotor back off and readjust the adjuster nut. Even with what seems like only a little bit of contact between the shoes and rotor as evidence by no noise as you rotate the rotor on the axle (see video below for what this sounds like), getting the rotor back off can take a bit of effort. Finally, I would adjust each set of shoes with the rotor on the opposite side removed to ensure any sense of drag due to the shoes was only from the ones I was trying to adjust.

There is not a lot of travel in the system for either the parking brake mechanism at the wheels or at the pedal. This translates to needing to adjust the shoes first and and then adjusting the equalizer nut. For both, you will need to over adjust them and then back them off just enough to get motion with only light scraping of the shoes on the inside of the drum. The amount of adjustment between too snug and just free enough so that there is only light scraping/drag was about a quarter turn of the shoe adjusting nut.

I've attached a copy of the GM Service manual for the parking brakes for my 99. These instructions are not the best, hence my extra advice. I've added a note in them that one of the pictures in the manual is upside down and added an exploded diagram of the parking brake mechanism at the wheels.

P.S. This video is a good outline of the procedures, but skips over the adjustment procedure too quickly with few hints.

 

Parking brake lever boot replacement:

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...cement-107373/

 

This post describes the installation of a Champion 4-row radiator in my 1999 Blazer with 4wd. I previously installed an Engineered Cooling Products radiator in 2019. (https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...adiator-99841/) It had a few leaks that I several years I ago I was able to fix with JB Weld. However, last month it started leaking again and I decided to replace it. I have gone this route because I use my truck to tow my sailboat that on its trailer weights 2,200 lbs that I often take up some steep grades in hot weather, e.g., US 95 at Lewiston ID: 1,700' in 6 miles at 105'F to 95'F. I also have a large transmission cooler to help with keeping the temps down.

Unlike the ECP radiator, the Champion one came with both internal coolers for the transmission and engine oil. I originally had intended to order a 3-row version but these were out of stock and so I opted for the 4-row. The gamble was that the 4-row would be even larger making the installation a bit of a challenge. The 4-row Champion is 3 1/8" thick front/back at the side tanks and the ECP one was only 2 3/4". An OEM radiator is 1.84" thick at the side tanks and 2.5 inches front to back if the flanges of the side tanks are included.

The upshot is that this installation can be done. However doing so requires the following:

• The radiator shroud will have to be modified if you keep the original mechanical fan. This consisted of cut outs for some hoses and spacers between the upper and lower parts. I also had to elongate the mounting holes on the top fan shroud where it bolts to the frame.
• If doing it again, I'd very likely consider installing electric fans and deleting the mechanical fan. I still might delete the mechanical fan with the Dodge Avenger fan swap.
• Modifications will be necessary to the air inlet box for the air filter. Being 3 1/8" deep at the side tanks, the radiator hose and the upper oil-cooler line will interfere with the air box.
• The use of fan removal tools very much helps to give room to work with the new radiator. It will take a few trial fits to get everything sized correctly so not having the fan in the way really helps.
• Removal of the air inlet box and the battery and battery tray help with the installation. I took the opportunity to repaint my battery tray since it was out.

What I have still to do is install a Smart Wire ground strap to the radiator to help protect it from electrolysis.

For my installation, I also had the challenge of interference from the transmission cooler lines that go to my supplemental transmission fluid cooler (Hayden 699) and the bracket for the 1-ton idler arm upgrade. This made for a tight fit against the fan shroud on the passenger side.

The new radiator has an internal volume of 5.20 liters whereas the OEM style radiator has a volume of 2.25 liters. This adds about 2.9 liters or 3.1 quarts to the total volume of the cooling system. This needs to be remembered when doing your calculations for the proper coolant mixture. For me, I calculated I would need 7.5 quarts of concentrated coolant so I just put in a full two gallons.

Before I installed the final coolant, I did a flush 4 times with distilled water and ran the engine for about 10 minutes allowing the thermostat to open as evidenced by the upper radiator hose getting hot. Before the final fill, I removed the drivers side engine drain plug. This drained out about 1/2 gallon more of water. Draining at the radiator alone would only yield 1.5 to 1.8 gallons. I was able to get to it by using a long extension and a wobble attachment at the socket (14 mm or 9/16") by reaching up from the lower/aft point on the brake shield. I reinstalled it per the service manual directions to a torque of 13 ft-lbs and using teflon thread sealant. (see pictures below) The final concentration had a freeze point of about +30'F according to my refractometer. This corresponded to likely a couple percent concentration of the old coolant. I had forgotten that there is also a way to drain extra water out by removing one of the water pump bolts. It helped to remove the inner/smaller heater core hose at the heater core to let more coolant/water out by venting the cooling system. When doing the final refill I filled the heater hoses and the heater core directly with distilled water.

These are pictures of the radiator after it arrived. The box was not secured very well with the cardboard staples either having come out or barely holding it together. Thankfully the radiator was not damaged.

Picture of the engine side of the radiator as soon as I unpacked it. It only came with the connectors for the oil-cooler. I was able to swap the old ones for the transmission cooler.



Front, grille-facing side, of the radiator.


Below are some select pictures I took that will illustrate the tight fit and how I made my fan shroud mods.


Pass. side spacers for fan shroud. Ideally, I'd close the gaps with the spacers. I might do it with a couple zip-ties wrapped around the white spacers. I had to get longer bolts to make this work.



View from pass. side showing side of radiator and routing of transmission cooling hoses. Taking out the battery and the battery tray helps a lot. (Please don't judge my messy workbench too harshly! ;-) )



View showing how fan shroud almost cover all of the fan. I had to extend the lower part of the fan shroud down with spacers to make sure the fan did not hit it.



View of upper radiator hose on driver side looking down showing the upper oil-cooler line. If I had not made a dimple in the side of the air box, it would have rubbed against it. I added some scrap hose between it and the box. You can see where I had to cut some of the lip of the air box lid to clear the top of the oil-cooler line.



The measurement of the front-back thickness of the Champion 4-row radiator. You can also see where I cut a notch in the lid of the air box to help with clearance when installing the box where it would touch the corner of the radiator. I had to cut off a bit of the upper radiator hose where it met the radiator to compensate for the radiator being much thicker front to back. You can see where I cut away at the side ribs for the air-box lid to make clearance for the upper radiator hose.



This show how the fan upper fan shroud mounting bolts had to be elongated.



Another view from above looking outward toward the pass. side hose routing for the transmission cooler.



View from below showing my supplemental transmission cooler lines. In the far left of the radiator you can see where I used a zip tie to secure the bottom fan shroud to the bottom of the radiator using a hole in the radiator frame, I did this at the center and on the driver side. too.



View from underneath showing the 1-ton idler arm upgrade. I had to route the supplemental transmission cooler lines between the top if its bracket and the bottom of the fan shroud. I added lengths of scrap heater hose to protect the hoses from rubbing.



This view is looking up and to the rear on the driver side. The front of the steering gear is in the lower half. A the bottom of the radiator is the zip tie that secures the lower fan shroud to the radiator.



Another view of the extra transmission cooling lines. The slivery metal strap is what I had used to secure the lower fan shroud with the earlier ECP radiator. I likely didn't need it but it was easier to reuse than remove.


These pictures show how I got to the engine drain plug on the drivers side. I did not try to get the one out on the other side.


View looking up and a bit forward showing how to access the petcock from the front end of the front right wheel well. I folded the splash guard out of the way so I could more easily get to the petcock and put a hose on the drain to help guide water into the drain pan. I highly recommend getting a petcock with a spout on it so that you can put a hose on it to help direct the water flow.


The view from low behind the front brake caliper. The open hole where the plug goes in the block can be seen in the lighted area just above the remote cooler line. The front end of the left-side torsion bar is in the foreground.



View looking up along the long extension as I was reinstalling the block plug.



View looking down showing a view of the long extension used to get at the block plug. The trouble-light is resting on the upper control arm. You can see the socket and wobble attachment just to the right of the top of the trouble light.


The block drain plug and 9/16" socket I used to get it out. Before I reinstalled it I cleaned the threads and applied GM thread sealant paste with teflon. I used a 14mm socket since it fit better and I didn't want to round off the corners. To get it out took using a breaker bar.

 

Very nice write up! I'm sure this will help someone in the future, as long as they know how to do search.

 

Does it still use the same seals for the hard lines at the radiator? All my flushing, wp repair and now Im getting oil in the coolant. 2 year old oem style so Im really looking at your build now!

 

Oh man, that sucks about the oil.

As for these aftermarket radiators, they can have the female threaded connectors welded into the radiator that accept the brass or steel fittings that connect directly to the steel transmission fluid and remote oil cooling lines.

As for quality and fitment, these Champion one have a very good warantee, even though they are made in China. The previous one was an American made one from Engineered Cooling Products. However it didn't come with a built-in oil-cooler. I had a local shop weld one in for me. This sadly voided the warranty for the ECP one since it later developed a leak where a couple of the horizontal tubes entered the side tank. I was able to fix it with JB Weld which worked for several years.

If you just want a quality replacement radiator, I'd suggest considering the one by Leland. A member of the forum installed one. I didn't consider it because I needed something larger for my towing.

The 4-row Champion one I installed was a tight fit. Even the 3-row would have required mods, but they would be easier to make.

Just today, I tested my cooling by towing my boat, 2,200 lbs with the trailer, up a 6 mile grade increasing in height of 1,700 ft, at 95 degrees. It started out at 188 degrees and never increased past 199. Note that I also have an extra Hayden transmission cooler.

 

Any troubles yet with cracking of the tubes? I have heard nothing good about ANY aluminum aftermarket radiator. Even the last one you had cracked a bunch. The radiator shop I went to recommended to stick with the OEM style and go with Denso. Between your threads and the other one I started It seems about the only quality radiator would be a custom made one. I wonder what the hard core "wheelers" use on this site for radiators? I'm not sure if I need the extra cooling or not. I have 2 12" electric fans and have only gotten hot when I lost a relay for one of them while doing some low range crawling. It's the flexing that seems to be the biggest culprit. Do you off road much?

 

I've only had my current radiator installed since last summer but it has been perfect with no coolant loss. I have towed my boat a steep grade at least once on a hot day and it was fine. (1,700' over 6 miles) I also have a Hayden 699 trans cooler.

Most years I will have taken into the woods on logging roads here in North Idaho for hunting and fishing but I have not done so this year.

The previous radiator, as you saw, leaked where a couple tubes entered the side tank. If I hadn't already modified it, a warranty would have covered its replacement. I think there is a similar warranty for my new one.

I went with a larger radiator due to overheating when towing my boat in some extreme conditions. If I had to do it over again, I would have installed my larger trans cooler first to see if it would have been sufficient.

I would think having electric fans will help offset the need for a larger radiator. What you have now is possibly sufficient.

I'm not familiar with the demands of actual rock crawling. If doing that puts a demand on the transmission, you might consider installing a trans cooler and a trans fluid temp sensor.

 

Yeah, I'm not rock crawling, just wondering what THEY use. I just know the tweaks and twists off-roading, even going up and down driveway ramps puts stress on things.

 

It would make sense to minimize the risk of a new radiator leaking!

I wonder what it is about the all aluminum ones that makes them susceptible to leaking; the design or just bad welds.