I totalled my Blazer, and the wife agreed to disagree on fixing it....so here we go..
#21
Thanks for the encouragement, Copperhead!
Johboy, being the owner of a self rebuilt Blazer, i say fix it. it's a shame to see these crushed. the cash for clunkers claimd enough of them. i did a repaint on mine, but everything but the grill and front lights are from PNP. the grill and front lights were just as cheap new online.
#22
i pulled my parts individually. i could not find a blazer, that had NO front end damage, when i was rebuilding mine. i drove it for like a year without a front bumper, prior to the re-paint. also, a cheap (maaco?) paint job, would probably cost less than a color match. or do like i did, and paint it yourself.
#23
Cheap paint jobs look terrible and fall off
#24
I would look around on your local craigslist and look for somebody who has a blazer to part out.For a while on my local cl there was a ton of them but not so many lately.If nothing there check your local pull a part junk yard.You should be able to find everything you need.
#25
well yeah there is that Chesty, LOL. i painted cars for a couple of years, so for me, it was a no brainer. i never did like that "hershey candybar" shine maaco, and sprayglow has, but it looks better than i guess 5 different colors. LOL
#26
The front clips are easy to remove minus the bumper you can remove both fenders along with coresupport in one peice.Replacing everything thats damaged should cost no more than$500 give or take some.To whom posted the pic of the other blazer forsale thats a nice one.I like the wheels and wish I had a set like that for mine.Question is how well do you like this particular blazer?Are the engine and trans,4wd drive dependable even with the milege thats on it?
#27
#28
I've priced everything out individualy, and between prices posted online by my local U-Pull-it yard, and prices for other new components (radiator, condenser, and a few other pieces), I'm looking at about $1,400 in parts. I think (as long as I don't have any issues with the frame or something else that I can't see, I can completely get this back to the way it was (including painting the hood and fenders before assembly) for $2,000 or less (doing the labor myself, of course). See the parts list below.
As for your question about reliability.....I'm convinced that if I had been more serious about the maintenance of the engine and cooling system originally that I would not have had to replace the engine.
As for the transmission I've not had any problems (knock on wood).
As for the 4WD, I have a sensor on one of my back wheels that has caused the 4WD to not work, but until that happened, it was running perfectly.
If I didn't feel that the vehicle was solid, I wouldn't consider fixing it. I am the second owner, and I bought it in December of 2000 with 23,000 miles on it.
Here is my parts list - don't know if this is high/typical/low, because I pulled this list together in about 30 minutes and haven't dome much looking elsewhere:
Part / Cost (some from local u pull it yard, some from online)
Chrome Bumper with impact strip $225
Grille $100
Hood $150
Rt Fender $100
Lt Fender $100
Rt Headlight Assy $50
Lt Headlight Assy $50
Radiator Fan Shroud $10
Radiator Overflow tank $25
Radiator Core Support $125
Radiator $150
Condenser $150
Water pump (because I want to and the one on there from Autozone sucked) $125
Radiator Fan (it was mostly destroyed on impact) $25
Fan clutch $50
Grand total:$1,435
Jonboy
As for your question about reliability.....I'm convinced that if I had been more serious about the maintenance of the engine and cooling system originally that I would not have had to replace the engine.
As for the transmission I've not had any problems (knock on wood).
As for the 4WD, I have a sensor on one of my back wheels that has caused the 4WD to not work, but until that happened, it was running perfectly.
If I didn't feel that the vehicle was solid, I wouldn't consider fixing it. I am the second owner, and I bought it in December of 2000 with 23,000 miles on it.
Here is my parts list - don't know if this is high/typical/low, because I pulled this list together in about 30 minutes and haven't dome much looking elsewhere:
Part / Cost (some from local u pull it yard, some from online)
Chrome Bumper with impact strip $225
Grille $100
Hood $150
Rt Fender $100
Lt Fender $100
Rt Headlight Assy $50
Lt Headlight Assy $50
Radiator Fan Shroud $10
Radiator Overflow tank $25
Radiator Core Support $125
Radiator $150
Condenser $150
Water pump (because I want to and the one on there from Autozone sucked) $125
Radiator Fan (it was mostly destroyed on impact) $25
Fan clutch $50
Grand total:$1,435
Jonboy
The front clips are easy to remove minus the bumper you can remove both fenders along with coresupport in one peice.Replacing everything thats damaged should cost no more than$500 give or take some.To whom posted the pic of the other blazer forsale thats a nice one.I like the wheels and wish I had a set like that for mine.Question is how well do you like this particular blazer?Are the engine and trans,4wd drive dependable even with the milege thats on it?
Last edited by Jonboy; 02-06-2013 at 01:47 PM. Reason: formatting of my table was dropped when I posted, so I had to clean it up.
#29
pretty close, my fenders were $75.00 a piece, my hood was $75.00, and my water pump, from o'reilly's, was $38.00. the PNP i got my radiator core support from, was $50.00
#30
Time is everything!
Yea, three months after you need it, I just bought a new condenser on ebay for $44. with Warranty for a year. Mine ate the scrap from a compressor meltdown and after replacing that twice (warranty!) I found out that the gunk in the coils flows back under new high pressure and causes the compressor to eat itself, putting crud into the condenser for next time. Of course this comes right after I finally solve all the oil leaks from installing new oil lines. The clip fastners on the oem oil cooler are stupid and I would gladly undertake a mod if anyone has experience. Now a t 187k on my 2K LS and have replaced all the steering arms, ball joints, hubs (again) and oil lines () will do the condenser but don't want to spend another 2 months cleaning oil spots off the driveway. Thinking maybe a new oil cooler forward of the rad on the driver side?
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