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I definitely want to be aware of limitations. I really don’t plan to dig into the motor. As the swap itself is said to be difficult. And I have to keep a budget. I don’t want to drag strip the truck. But surprise some ahole at a light now and again. Yeah I like that!!
2 broken manifold bolts. I’m gonna tac weld a nut to the one for sure and try to get it off. Attempt it on the one flush but nervous about that one.
I have the intake manifold off and will pull the valve cover to inspect. If nothing looks suspect go with it.
I mentioned will set you back just over $30. While the manifolds are off, inspect them for cracks. While the 5.3L manifolds aren't all that well known for it, they can crack where the runners come together. The 6.0L manifolds were NOTORIOUS for cracking where the runners came together. I had to replace both sides on our old work truck and I've done exhaust manifold bolts on 4 separate LS equipped vehicles I've owned plus a few others for 'good' friends. Drilling that rear most one on the passenger side out in the vehicle is always nerve racking and can be quite painful on vehicles with rear A/C...
*EDIT* - Hopefully that gets them out! Cool them down fast and make sure to remove them only once they are cooled fully to limit the possibility of stripping out the aluminum threads.
I wasn't lucky enough to have anything to get a hold of with the rear most ones up against the firewall on my old Tahoe and on my old Yukon. Both had rear A/C and both had to be drilled out. Fun times... The Tahoe had 8 broken bolts total with only one needing to be drilled. The Yukon only had 3 or 4.
Not sure where my photo went hope this don’t post twice. I did indeed get these out with welding but on. Short one took five attempts but they are out. Boom Little booger stuck here. Not sure yet how to address it.
Are you suggesting I try the manifold that came with the truck motor. I sure as heck would save money if they work. I do have this little hooker steering shaft This work with manifolds?? That would be great This is parts number but not confirmed to work with truck manifolds on my end just yet. So wait for confirmation
It shouldn't have stuck very well. I'd just take a sharp chisel and keep it aligned with the surface to knock it off. Just push it away from the gasket area then file it smooth with a small hand file. I would not try to grind it off in place as you'll end up chewing into the aluminum more than that steel goober.
I'm not sure what kind of fitment the stock truck manifolds offer in the s-series platform really. I know most go with headers, but if the stock manifolds work, it sure would be cheaper as you said. Worth a look when you're dropping things in.
*EDIT* - After a quick google search, it looks like none of the stock manifolds work. The closest thing is the stock F-body LS1 manifolds that need to have their outlets cut off and extended to make them work. S10V8.com has some fairly cheap headers available though.
Pop that knock sensor harness up out of the valley cover and have a peek at the sensors and the harness. Some of those motors have a problem with the harness itself rotting below those plastic plugs in the valley cover due to trapped moisture. That's what happened on my old '04 Tahoe and what made that $30 motor I picked up such a steal. It had almost $300 of new parts in knock sensors & a new KS harness on it. Turned out it was a 30k motor that the owner never changed the oil in. Someone threw new knock sensors at it with a new harness only to find that it had spun a bunch of bearings.
