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The new 'Ho

  #1  
Old 11-19-2010, 03:42 PM
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Default The new 'Ho

Figured I should start a build thread although things are probably going to go slow on this just like everything else...

Here's a quote from another thread on what I did initially:
Originally Posted by swartlkk View Post
Got the truck home and today was the assessment of the true causes for the things I used as leverage. Here's the run down of the problem, cause, and the cost in dollars & time for the repairs I was able to get done:

- Spongy side steps --> missing/corroded aluminum rivets. $9 for a box of 25 from NAPA. 40 minutes later I had used 24 of the rivets. Under the plastic lower trim, the rockers were in perfect condition! The steps are now rock solid!
- Broken exhaust manifold bolt --> 2 hrs and $1.32 each x 12 (~$17 after tax) to replace all of them. I was able to drill the one broken bolt and extract it without pulling the manifold so I didn't have to replace the gasket as there was no leak. No other bolts broke in the process. Dealer quoted $150 for one bolt, $250 minimum for all 12.
- Rattle in head liner over driver seat --> reinforcement came loose from adhesive - 10 minutes and two dollops of liquid nails from an already open tube, no more rattle.
- Inoperative CHMSL - power & ground to the light when the brakes are activated - light shot. $50 for a Dorman replacement. 10 minutes to diagnose today and 5 minutes to replace when the new one gets here.

I still have the bumper to do, but I have called up my steel supplier and they will sand blast it for $30. My paint guy charges me materials only so that will be negligible as well. Likely $50 total blasted & painted. Dealer body shop quoted $300.

I will probably replace the turn signal lenses as well because they have moisture in them and are cloudy on the inside. So another $30 there.

So far:
Total time - 3hrs
Total cost - $76 (not including the bumper or replacement turn signal lenses - $80 more)

All in all, I am extremely happy with this purchase! Next weekend I will see how it handles the camper when I put it into storage.

*EDIT* - Pictures:


So most recently, I have replaced the front turn signals because they were cloudy and it didn't matter how much I buffed the outside or washed the inside, it didn't clear them up.

Here are the after pics with the new APC turn signal lenses ($30 from Amazon.com):

Headlights & parking lights on:

DRL's on:


I think I am going to get a set of Silverstar 3157A bulbs to put in to get rid of some of the orange reflection when the bulbs are not lit.

Next on my list is to get the front bumper blasted & repainted. Then I'm going to add some new lights to the back of the truck for better back up lighting. I'll have more details on that when the time comes.

I also have a new set of radio buttons on the way. Previous driver was a woman with long nails so the buttons are all scratched to heck. $40 off eBay for new buttons.
 
  #2  
Old 11-19-2010, 05:24 PM
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Looks good. I actually kinda like the reflection lol. But I think they will look way better just plain clear
 
  #3  
Old 11-21-2010, 04:58 PM
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The reflection is growing on me. I'll probably pick up a set of the silverstar bulbs. I just found out that Sylvania has discontinued these bulbs... And what stock is left, people are charging $20 for 2 of them.. I found them on LMC for $14 for a set, but I think they are knock offs.

Today I replaced the scratched up buttons on the stock head unit.
 
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:20 PM
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X2 Zedartwo, I like that glow in there... looks great Kyle. & WTH is that from a dealer for the exhaust bolts? omg
I have an aux. back up light that goes on the 2" receiver. It works pretty good being 2 - 35W H4 bulbs & has a 3 way switch - On (from switched power), Reverse & Off. Only thing is that they shine straight back & meet at about 20'. I'm thinking of warming up the composite housing & tweeking them outward a couple degrees.

Keep up the updates!
 
  #5  
Old 03-01-2011, 09:32 PM
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Time for some more updates.

I recently purchased a used HVAC control head off eBay for $50. Mine had some burnt out bulbs and rather than potentially screw up the one in mine... So I started out with this:


I replaced the back-light bulbs on the circuit board in the used one to get them all back working properly:


I installed the new one tonight, however, I guess I shouldn't have left the blue filters on the bulbs... The backlight now matches the LCD screen... I'll update later with pictures.

Last weekend I spent 2 hours messing with the stupid secondary latch on the spare tire carrier before putting $20 into the rear axle for diff fluid, a gasket, and a few cans of brake clean. The diff seems to be operating much better now. No more clunking or locked up feelings. Sadly, I didn't take any pictures of this procedure.

The biggest news is the upgrades that will be happening next weekend in the transmission:


That's a corvette servo, 1-2 accumulator piston & pin, 4th accumulator piston & pin, pinless forward accumulator, .471 boost valve, Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve, an ISO-CONV converter regulator valve, springs courtesy of a Trans-go shift kit, and a custom drilled separator plate all from Dana at 700r4l60e.com. Dana forgot to include the seals for the pinless forward accumulator and I still need to go out and get a new filter & pan gasket along with a case of Dexron VI fluid.
 
  #6  
Old 03-04-2011, 01:01 AM
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are we gonna have any before & after comparisons on the trany work?
 
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:38 AM
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What do you want to know? LOL

Right now it shifts quite nicely although I do have a little 2-3 shift flare between 1/2 to better than 3/4 throttle that isn't present under 1/2 throttle, or at WOT. Dana at 700r4l60e.com suggested the kit that I ended up purchasing and has addressed all of the major causes for the 2-3 shift flare that can be addressed without dropping the transmission or messing with the PCM. He set the kit up for towing and it now will apply the overrun clutch in all gears for proper engine braking. I didn't want neck snapping shifts, but they will be more noticeable. We'll see how it operates once everything is installed.

I received the seals for the pin-less forward accumulator last night from Dana so I may be starting this tonight. I have 8 hours of OSHA training at the FD in the morning though... Tonight may just consist of getting the transmission pan off and letting it drain overnight. If I would take some time to fix the choke on my K5 (by fix I mean remove the carb and install the electric choke I have sitting on the bench), I wouldn't be so gun shy about not having the Tahoe for the mid-night fire call that seems to pop up when I least expect it!
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:48 PM
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Well, the valve body is out, all of the parts inside have been swapped out, and it is ready to go back in. I'm waiting to hear back from Dana again because I didn't get a shift solenoid screen for the separator plate. I'm tempted to just put on the old one that I cleaned up and get things back together...

I still need to swap out the boost valve and do the servo upgrade... Back to work.
 
  #9  
Old 03-05-2011, 06:08 PM
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Well...




 
  #10  
Old 03-05-2011, 08:23 PM
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If you think it's worthless you can stop reading... Working by myself with transmission fluid all over the place isn't a conducive environment for my camera. I'm going to scan in the instructions for the kit Monday at work.

I suppose I can go out and snap a pic of the valve body modification that the Sonnax 2-3 shift valve instructions mentioned. I ended up doing this modification using my Dremel, a creatively cut shop towel, some tape, and my shop vac to keep the debris out of the valve body.

Everything is done and in except for the separator plate and the valve body. I am still waiting to hear back from Dana about the shift solenoid screen in the separator plate.

I am very glad I sprung for the new accumulator pistons. The 1-2 and the forward accumulator pistons were plastic. All three (1-2, 3-4, and forward) accumulator pistons and pins were worn quite badly which allows pressure to bleed past. I replaced the pins on the 1-2 & the 3-4 accumulators and installed the pin-less forward accumulator which required two small steel ***** be driven into the bore previously occupied by the old pin.
 

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