ok, so i have finished everything that was my rear end swap out. (except running the wires) so i said that i was going to upload pictures of everything and now i have gotten back in town so i will do as such.
so i had previously stated that i had broken the trans yoke.

Not happy times.
so anyway, i got a replacement and i was off and running. got the u-joints of the rear drive shaft swapped out with some new grease-able Spicer ones.


so i got everything switch over to the new axle. i did all new brakes in the back including new hoses, calipers, parking brake shoes, pads and rotors. swapped out the front pads and bleed everything. adjusted the parking brake cable so nothing was dragging. i didnt take a picture of that because i think we all know what the rear brakes look like. so now that i had all that done, i figured it was time to put the drive shaft in. now my diff yoke had seen better days i'm sure. so i decided to a tap down the threads to clean out any boogers or rust. run it down the first hole, just fine. run it down the second hole, just fine; or so i thought. i started to back it out and make the infamous *CRACK*. i think i may have cried a little when i heard it because i knew what it meant. so for a few minutes i tried to get it out of the threads....no dice. i finally said "eff this!" and took the yoke off the pinion.
Bottom right hole.
As i drove back over to the local rear end place, quietly muttering obscenities under my breath to myself, i was going over everything that i had to undo because of this. i was able to get a new yoke, crush sleeve, and locking nut. took everything back to the shop and proceeded to take the rear end almost completely apart. axles out, carrier out, pull the pinion, changed the crush sleeve, and put it all back together. re-check everything, make sure that everything is torqued and i was back at it again. got the drive shaft installed put the wheels on, made sure everything was free to spin, after i put it in neutral. filled the diff with some 85W-140, started it and let everything break in.

 

You handled it far better than I would have... I know the feeling when you're about to either cry or start throwing ****. I've had my gf come into the shop because she thought I was yelling at someone else...no no, just reminding myself how stupid I can be.

 

i was definitely not happy about the problems i had. but i just wanted my baby back. you guys know how it is. after the trans yoke broke, and then that tap decided to retire in my diff yoke, i just wanted to get it done. and i was pretty much telling myself that i didnt care what it cost. i was just over the problems.

 

Nice upgrades, be careful with the e-locker though.

 

True! A friend had one in a D60 in a 4Runner, and he had a few troubles with it. Something to do with how they lock in, you need to have it slightly under power for it to lock in properly. I'm not positive, but it may be worth looking into.

 

Blaz destroyed his, apparently they unlock if you reverse then get chewed up when you start going forward again.


So, if you need to back up, unlock it first then lock it when you're ready to move forward again.


Post #96 --> https://blazerforum.com/forum/builds...-75972/page10/

 

i cant see how they can unlock in reverse being that you have to flip the switch, but i will keep it in mind when i am using it. the small nightmare i had putting this one in, i dont want to have to mess with it for several years besides servicing the rear end. i did read, i think it was on Eaton's site, that they can take as much as 270 degrees of rotation before they lock up. i think that a lot of people would engage these when there are tearing up a hill and one wheel is spinning and the other isn't. i read on another forum, i think it was a jeep one, that someone engaged it while the wheels where spinning and they broke the axle housing!! i couldnt imagine that.

anyway, thanks for the heads up on that. i think that i will just play it safe and heed warning from you and Blaz.

 

I think I`m gonna stick with a lock right

 

Yeah, that's all I know about it. Another guy confirmed this is a problem on zr2usa and blaz researched it more after the fact and found more information on it.



I like my ECTED

 

The E locker was great when it was working. Driver error is the cause of the failure. Make it up every feature on the first try with out rolling backward even a foot. The locker I have now (Yukon Grizzly) is no where as street friendly as the open diff the e-locker provides. Time will tell if the Grizzly is a good upgrade for me. Use the e-locker with caution and get out and have fun.

The failure I had is the same as others with H3's and some jeeps.

H3 Eaton locker installation - Page 2