I have an 1985 S10 Blazer 4x4. The original carburetor is installed - Rochester two-barrel E2SE (Varajet). I wish to rebuild the carburetor. Before I can remove the carburetor there is a cable located below the secondary vacuum break linkage and accompanied bracket. How is this cable removed? This cable is spring loaded and looks as though it enters through the firewall.
Please let me know if more information is required. Thanks in advance.

 

I have a 1985 S10 w/2.8L and 700r4 trans. The cable you're looking at is the TV (throttle valve) cable to the transmission. Section 7B, page 7B-2 in the Haynes manual (PN# 24070) will be of some help to you. The manual should be available at any good auto parts store. Also, the E2SE carburetor tear down/rebuild procedure is outlined in this manual on pages 4-11 through 4-24. Note that the special angle guage referenced on page 4-23 is NOT ABSOLUTELY required (see "NOTE" in small print in lower left diagram on same page).

Yesterday I did a general overview of the carb on my S10 and found the following items of concern (carb has never rebuilt that I know of).

1) The secondary butterfly was only opening approximately 60 degrees at full throttle. The secondary butterfly valve (at the bottom of the carb below the air valve) is opened mechanically. I carefully "reformed" (ie. BENT!) the small tab at the PRIMARY butterfly lever as required for proper WOT (Wide Open Throttle). This small tab lifts UP on what looks like a small pin. Play with the front barrel while holding the air valve open with your finger and you'll see what I mean. The secondary butterfly should be wide open when the primary is wide open.

2) The air valve adjustment (top diagram on page 4-23) is specified as 1 turn for a V6 engine. You can get a little extra performance if you don't "go back" the full turn (you'll see what I mean when you get the manual). If you "nail it" from a standing start and the engine bogs, you'll have to go a little more counter clockwise: it's a trial and error thing. Mine does well at about 3/4 of a turn.

3) The air valve was not able to open all the way due to the stop tab. Again, I "reformed" The tab to allow full opening of the air valve.

4) You will have to pull forward on the rod connecting the air valve to the front vacuum pull down in order to open the air valve. It's kind'a like a balancing act but it can be done.

5) The diagram in the Haynes manual for the TV cable adjustment was not a good representation of mine. It almost seems like they had to have the engine removed in order to take the picture. At any rate, If you end up having to feel for the "TAB UP" button (see top right picture on page 7B-2) and it doesn't seem to "feel like" the picture, don't get frustrated; it's located right behind a bracket where you can't see it. If you feel a round, flat topped, steel button, thats it. I had to use a screwdriver to "lever" the button down. It's OK, go ahead and force on it. Again, you'll see all this when you get the manual.

6) When you adjust the TV cable (required when reinstalling the carb) it's so simple it's scarry! Once this is done you can "taylor" the shift by adding a "click or two." Adjustment toward the firewall gives harder shifts and higher engine RPMs before shifts (ie. raises the shift points). Adjustment toward the front of the engine provides smoother shifts and lowers shift points. I don't like winding a street engine up so I went forward two clicks.

Hope all this helps

 

Thank you for the information. It is apprecieated more than you know. I will definitely put this knowledge to good use when I adjust the TV cable. I am currently using a Haynes Techbook. I found it to be much more usefull than the Chiltons. However, I believe that mine differs from yours, the pages that you referred to do not match up. I do have two additional questions for you:

1. If possible can you post the ISBN of your Haynes manual, so I may locate the manual you are using. It sounds as though it will be very useful as well. The ISBN of my manual is 1563920689.

2. Do you know how this TV cable is actually removed to allow removal of the carburetor? Is this cable removed from the carburetor or from the transmission?

Thanks again for the information that you posted.