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Electric Fan swap

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  #1  
Old 08-09-2007, 06:27 PM
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Default Electric Fan swap

Hey guys,

Not sure if eveyone has the same problem I do, but when my cooling fan is so loud, and when its on it feels like I lose 20hp. I'm looking to do a swap to change my belt driven to a electric fan. Has anyone does this and does anyone have any advise for me?

Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 10-14-2007, 03:43 AM
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Default RE: Electric Fan swap

advice its a good idea check with your local parts store for the kits or offroad places will have them as well also when you go to an electric fan and get rid of the clutch fan it helps your motor by removing that stress on it so it will run alot better and pick up better.
 
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Old 10-14-2007, 09:10 AM
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Default RE: Electric Fan swap

If your fan is loud, then your clutch may have gone bad. An engine driven thermo-clutch is actually pretty darn efficient. The clutch only draws power when necessary for proper cooling of the radiator. I ran a little test a while ago to see exactly how much the clutch added drag to the engine when the radiator temps didn't require it to be working. Next to nothing! When they fail is when you have a large drag.

To go to an electric fan, you would need to put in controls for proper operation during A/C use and a temperature control for it. To run around with the fan on all the time would waste just as much power as a faulty fan clutch. The 2002 engine driven fan is pretty darn efficient in blade design so the gains from an electric fan are very minimal if any.
 
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Old 12-01-2007, 11:45 AM
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Default RE: Electric Fan swap

I've got a fairly new fan clutch on mine but when it's on I've got the same problem, lack of power and performance. I've got a 160 degree thermo in mine so my fan very rarely kicks on but when it does there is just no power. I've heard you got to be careful what kit you buy cause there are some out there just don't work right.
 
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Old 12-01-2007, 12:00 PM
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Default RE: Electric Fan swap

A 160 thermostat in your truck is bad... I'm surprised you haven't experienced a check engine light yet. Even a 180*F thermostat could cause problems with the PCM... The PCM needs to see a particular rise in temperature for a specific run time. That and it wants atleast 175*F operating temperature for closed loop. This is true for any '98+ truck. The programming in the '96-'97 allowed for the use of a 160*F stat without the SES light coming on, but without proper modification to the PCM, it would still run rich all of the time, causing low fuel mileage.
 
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