t was under warranty cause my mom owned it...truck has 11Engine click and oil pressure
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Joined: Oct 2006
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RE: t was under warranty cause my mom owned it...truck has 11Engine click and oil pressure
an Oil Pump (avg price $50) | AE Clevite Connecting Rod Bearings (set for avg of $50) | Oil pan gasket ($35)
Oh and a tube of assembly lube or engine assembly greease (for doing rebuilds).
Or go with a bottom end rebuild kit (about $120 believe Napa still carries these) Comes with Rod | Main | gaskets | seals
Its not that hard to drop the oil pan and do those. But you do need to know what you are doing. And feel comfortable doing so.
If not barter with a buddy who does.
Oh and a tube of assembly lube or engine assembly greease (for doing rebuilds).
Or go with a bottom end rebuild kit (about $120 believe Napa still carries these) Comes with Rod | Main | gaskets | seals
Its not that hard to drop the oil pan and do those. But you do need to know what you are doing. And feel comfortable doing so.
If not barter with a buddy who does.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 197
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RE: t was under warranty cause my mom owned it...truck has 11Engine click and oil pressure
Mechanic's stethoscopes are cheap. You MIGHT be able to localize the noise to top or bottom end using one. I haven't had the pan off one of those, but I'll trust MNHawk on that. If it were the oil pump in this situation, I would be ecstatic! But you'd have to replace it, put things back together and try it out - then pull the pan again if it didn't do the trick.
I don't think there's much chance it's the oil pump. They usually work or don't - noises aren't their thing.
If it's relatively easy to drop the pan, you could get at the bottom end and check the bearings. But you BETTER do it right - keep everything clean, mark the bearing caps before removing them, check the rods and crank journals for scoring, and use plastigage to check bearing clearances before putting it back together. Use Lubriplate on each bearing during re-assembly. It wouldn't be a fun job. I assume that if it's a rythmic tick, it's likely not a main bearing but a rod bearing.
I don't think there's much chance it's the oil pump. They usually work or don't - noises aren't their thing.
If it's relatively easy to drop the pan, you could get at the bottom end and check the bearings. But you BETTER do it right - keep everything clean, mark the bearing caps before removing them, check the rods and crank journals for scoring, and use plastigage to check bearing clearances before putting it back together. Use Lubriplate on each bearing during re-assembly. It wouldn't be a fun job. I assume that if it's a rythmic tick, it's likely not a main bearing but a rod bearing.
RE: t was under warranty cause my mom owned it...truck has 11Engine click and oil pressure
Just be aware that the newer trucks with the aluminum oil pan may have a problem if you drop the pan without the engine out of the vehicle. The pan on these motors is a structural member that ties the transmission and engine together making it much more rigid. Also, with the one piece rear main seals and the timing chain cover, pulling the crank is really not an option so replacing the main bearings may not be possible with a simple pan drop. My advice would be to pull the pan if you can and assess the damage. If you pull a rod cap and find that the crank is scored, then I would have to recommend that you pull the motor and do the bottom end up right.
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blazingtrails93
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Jun 15, 2011 10:40 PM
