hey guys, quick question for yall heres what was happening...

I crank up my 01 blazer(its manual) and it revs high and stayed at about 4,500/5,000 RPM's without me touching the gas. did the obvious checked the pedals made sure nothing was sticking....so I looked at the throttle body and it was sticking, it wouldnt shut all the way. i looked at it and there was some sort of plate underneath that was cracked. it was on the underside of the butterfly valve?. So I pulled it off and it runs perfect now....it that the restrictor plate that I pulled off? Do I need to replace it?

my buddy helped me out and thats what he said it was, he told me that i would prolly lose a little gas milage that was it, but he is an expert on his 3000 GT.....not a blazer....just trying to make sure it didnt F things up. Thanks in advance!

 

if the plate you pulled off the bottom looks like either of these:

bottom view of throttle body, center of TB, top half is a half-moon shaped diverter

probably looked more like this one though (same view, plate in same place on pic)


anyway, if that is what you took off, then you should have 2 screw holes sitting open on the TB Blade. Those should either be plugged (if you intend to run with out the diverter) or used to bolt on a new diverter.

WITHOUT it, you should experience more peppy/quicker throttle response on the low end. If the was your problem part, you should also have a more normal idle now...

that thing cataches gas coming off the EGR ang feeds it more evenly into the engine. it is a bit big, and can be shaved down by about half for modest gains with no real additional problems (as per swartlkk, in previous posts) i have not chopped mine.

i believe with no diverter, you will be running your front a bit richer and your rear a bit leaner which will wear stuff out faster (but not crazy fast). search "diverter" until you see the post with the performance #'s listed.


Another thing to take a look at (on the dirty pic) is the small tube guy that lives there (down and right from the TB blade). It is your Idle Air Control valve, and can cause slugging or raicing idle is its busted and stuck open/closed.

easy check: pop it off (1 plug, and 2 T20 torx head screws) and touch the connection with amulti-meter. touch both pins on the left, then both on the right. each should have a resistance between 40-80 ohms if its good. also it should move a bit, but not easily. clean the corbon off of it (if it's still good, and re-install. if it's reading crazy, double check what setting your meter is on, test a scond time, and get a new one.