Thanks, I just picked up the switch,
then home to do it.
Ive got a heat gun, so it’s good to know what to expect.
Thanks again. Result later..

 

Well, sadly, I must report that the MLPS switch did not correct my problem.
I'm leaning toward the "A" solenoid, except for the fact that it seems to operate somewhat normally immediately after starting the vehicle, so I am open to any other suggestions.
Thanks, Transman304, for your assistance.
Any other ideas are welcome.

 

Dang! I felt comfortable that that would be the issue. The can you get the shifter in low/1? Is it OBD2 by chance? I know some late 95 will have that capability. Going to need to see what’s being commanded. It could be a solenoid problem as they will fail after being warm.
Brad

 

I cannot get the shifter lever to go to the 1st gear position.
I believe it’s OBD1. But I’m really not too familiar with the computer cars. I’m old school: carburetors, kick-down cables, vacuum lines.
I’ve learned that ‘95 was a transition year and I’ll need to determine which diagnostic port it is.
i thought my next move would be replacing the “A” solenoid, and change the fluid and filter.
the fluid has about 30,000 miles on it and the transmission has about 46,000 since rebuild.

 

Do both shift solenoids since you will be in there and maybe the 3-2 coast down solenoid as it is a trouble maker also, Just hate to keep throwing parts at it and hoping one sticks. Can get expensive. Quick test is will it start in neutral? Not in between R and N or D but with it in neutral detent.
Brad

 

Yes, it starts in neutral, and park. I checked that before the test drive.

 

Transman304 has been helping me with this issue, but before I go spend any more money on this, I thought I'd ask one more question.

I've read somewhere, that I can't find now, that a weak ignition switch can cause the transmission to go into limp mode, and that a small relay could be wired in to provide a strong current to the transmission solenoids. It would take an input from the ignition switch to energize the relay, then the relay would provide the current to the transmission.
I understand the theory, but I need to know where the power needs to go into the transmission (which wire). I've seen a reference to the pink wire. Is that correct?
Also, I have not found a good place to get the ignition provided source to energize the relay.
My thinking is: this route is very cheap, and since the transmission seems to operate normally when I first start off, but then goes into limp mode, it kinda makes sense
Any help would be welcome. Thanks

 

Transman304
You asked if it was OBD2.
Heres a pic of the access point. Can you tell?

 

I found that the ‘pink’ wire to the 12 pin plug was the supply for the solenoids, and I rigged a relay, from a separate fuse source to power the relay, and a wire directly from the battery, through the relay and then to the pink wire.
no change.😖

 

Plugged in a OBD2 code reader.
Reader can’t link to ECU.
Tried Autozone, theirs wouldn’t link, either.
There’s no Service Engine Soon light on.
I'm at a loss to understand .....
Is anyone reading this???