Ok, wiring on my truck, switches, ignition, computer, etc, is a mess.

Does anybody make a stand alone engine management system for this truck? Complete, computer, wiring to sensors, wiring to ignition, etc.

My 95 blazer has a new engine, body is decent, interior is decent, but I can't get this dang thing to run right. If this were a carb car, I'd rewire the whole thing in about 30 minutes and be done with it. But it's not. It's computerized everything, and it's driving me nuts.

I just want it to run!!!

Any suggestions?

 

Ah! you sound like an old timer that could set the timing by ear and tune the carb in your sleep.

I dont know of a complete system like youre wondering about. What sort of problems are you having? I have the feeling this is all new to you but if systematically troubleshoot the problem and resist the urge to just throw parts at it, you can conquer the beast!

Remember - computers are your friend! (No im not serious!)

Paint a good picture for us, we can probably help.

 

Hmm... I've gone through this before with this truck, was just looking to throw another part at it!!! lol.

If you go back to my previous posts, just about everything has been written somewhere.

I'll summarize here a bit.

After the new motor, had lots of problems.

Started with a problem with the EGR valve, would warm up and hold open, creating bad idle, poor power, terrible mileage.

Replaced three times, to no avail, something keeps making it stay open. I've heard of them staying shut, or getting jammed open from carbon, but this is a new motor, and two different new EGR valves, so it's not the carbon, it's gotta be the wiring . i've chased wires and come up to the computer, and then hit a dead end.

Then, ran into problem with fuel pump. Wouldn't turn on with ignition, sometimes, but would other times. Seems like if I hit the steering column just right, it'd work and fire just fine, but then not. But it'd always crank, just not start.

So... replaced the ignition.

Then dash lights wouldn't work right, even telling me to check the dash lights. Then again, if I hit it right, it'd work, and the fuel pump would run,and it'd fire, but then die and lights go out again. Couldn't even get down the street. But again it'd turn the starter, but not always start due to no fuel from the fuel pump I think.

Replaced ignition switch again, to no avail, same problems.

Pulling on the ignition harness causes a muriad of different problems, even when it's bolted together. Right now I can't get it to do anything. Won't even turn the starter.

I've got the dash apart, the steering column apart, and I can't get it to do anything, but occasionally it'll activate the "run" position, and I can run the fan for the AC, and radio! Yay!

I'm about given up, even put up a for sale sign and posting it here on blazerforum.

I'd either like to sell it to somebody who can use it, or get some help so that I can keep it and use it myself, as I've dumped almost 4 grand into the new crate motor, and throwing parts at it for the last year and a half.

Any ideas?

 

Oh, and as to the "old timer" part... I'm only 34, but I have a 60 caddy. hence the username. And yes, I've dropped a distributor by feel, set the timing by ear, and tuned the old three screw carter 4 barrel by feel. Setting that 3 ton caddy on my toes to set the idle is a little un-nerving at first, but you get used to it!!! And the secondaries... woo hoo.. what fun. It's nice to set them for about 65% throttle, and then hang on when they dump. It's almost like waiting for a single turbo to spool, once it goes, you feel it!

But this dad blasted blazer has me flustered! lol

 

I've done this several times, It was on Fords but the principle is the same.

FIRST get the factory manual covering your year and model. NOT the alldata which gets a lot of the pages wrong. Check ebay

THEN find a crashed but apparently well maintained equal to yours. Of course you are looking for intact and pristine harnesses.
Make a plan as to where to tag cut and separate the harness{es} from the wreck.
Note!!! If you look carefully and plan well you'll find you wont be cutting nearly as many wires as you might first think.
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Note: this problem explains why anyone who removes harness bindings in order to troubleshoot should restore tape and cluster ties to the way the factory sent it out