205 crossmember drop
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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I have a 87 K5. TH350 trans with a NP205 transferase, my issue is I lifted the blazer 6 inchs and now I can't get the transmission or the transfer case bolted to the frame. I know the 87 didn't come with a 205 so the cross member i have dosn't work at all, id have to use 6in blocks between the frame and crossmember to make it work. Any advice out there on similar builds or any after market parts that may solve the issue.
#2
Rough Country as well as a few other manufacturers sell transfer case drop kits that lower the t-case a few inches. They are nothing but heavy wall spacers and longer grade 8 hardware.
You should not need to drop it much more than that for a 6" lift. Go too far and your front driveshaft angles will be really screwed up. Your angle already looks way out with it that far down. Beyond the typical 1-2" transfer case drop, the t-case generally gets clocked to improve front driveshaft angles.
Why do you have it down that far? Is the t-case hitting on the underside of the body?
You should not need to drop it much more than that for a 6" lift. Go too far and your front driveshaft angles will be really screwed up. Your angle already looks way out with it that far down. Beyond the typical 1-2" transfer case drop, the t-case generally gets clocked to improve front driveshaft angles.
Why do you have it down that far? Is the t-case hitting on the underside of the body?
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Thanks for the reply, but the more I raise The T case the worse the drive shaft angle gets. I used a rough country drop kit and wasn't enough. even with custom drive shafts the angle is a no go.
#4
The worse what drive shaft angle gets? The front or the rear? You have to work with both unless you want to have a lifted truck with no power going to the front...
Dropping the entire cross-member results in HORRIBLE angles for the front shaft. That is why you can only drop it so much before you get in a bind, literally. So you can only drop it so much to get the back in a happy place (with the right shaft) and then correct the front by clocking the t-case (twisting it with a custom mount to lower the front output). Just look at your second picture that shows the front output and the input on the front axle. In the front, there is no way you are going to get a driveshaft to be happy in that scenario even with a CV style driveshaft like what is in there stock.
For the rear output, with that much of a lift, you should have already gone to a fixed yoke on the transfer case and a CV style joint at the t-case.
Dropping the entire cross-member results in HORRIBLE angles for the front shaft. That is why you can only drop it so much before you get in a bind, literally. So you can only drop it so much to get the back in a happy place (with the right shaft) and then correct the front by clocking the t-case (twisting it with a custom mount to lower the front output). Just look at your second picture that shows the front output and the input on the front axle. In the front, there is no way you are going to get a driveshaft to be happy in that scenario even with a CV style driveshaft like what is in there stock.
For the rear output, with that much of a lift, you should have already gone to a fixed yoke on the transfer case and a CV style joint at the t-case.
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