As I understand on 4x4 S10 types the front wheel bearing and hub is one non-servicable unit.When the bearing goes bad the whole unit must be replaced.
My 4x4 99' Jimmy makes a squeak noise from drivers side front wheel area. When I brake the squeakstops which I am guessing rules out brake pad wear indicator.
I just got this truck, it has 79k miles andI like it. I keep my vehicles for 5-7 years so i want toget it squared away.
Previous owner just had the left upper ball joint replaced.
-What are the early symptoms or noises indicating front wheel bearing going bad?

Operating Temp: According to the factory dash gauge it runs2notches under 210 deg. or 160-170 deg.MPG is poor, around 11 mpg.
-Is it be running too cool?
-What temperature theromostat should I install and
-I'm wondering what type of radiator hose clamp was installed at the factory? The squeez type or the better strongerscrew-worm type? Im trying to figure out if hose have been replaced.

I have a Haynes #24071 manual that covers my 99 Jimmy. Its kinda vague.
Whats a good S10 shop manual and where to buy it?

Thanks guys. Your time is Appereciated.

 

to check the front hub, ( and yes they are a complete sealed unit) jack up the front of vehicle and grab the top and bottom of tire and see if you can wiggle it. Dont go side to side as steering has play in it. if there is movement up and down then wheel bearing is goin out. Be careful if you let this go to long, the bearings inside the sealed unit can disintegrate and cause wheel to lock up or assemble to fall apart and wheel fall off.
If no play in wheel bearing, squeek could still be coming from brakes. try some brake quiet lube from any auto store or have brakes and callipers and rotors checked and turned if need be.

you should have a 180 degree thermostat in there and by your temp readings thats what it is. that isnt too cool, its in the norm, but gas mileage should still be better. May need an injector cleaning or full tune up to improve it a bit. and chevy generally uses the clamp type hose clamps. Thats what a chevy dealer will give you if you try to buy a hose clamp from them. Haynes is usually the best manual, you might look at a Chiltons Manual and see if they are any more descriptive. Good luck, keep the shiney side up

 

How to with pictures and everything.

https://blazerforum.com/m_56421/tm.htm

Questions? post up.

 

You guys are awesome! Thanks a whole lot.
I'm not an auto mechanic but I'm sure I can do the wheel bearing R&R if needed.
1993 thru 2000 I raced a late model 5.0 Mustang GT 5-speedconvertible. Started out with Hurst shifter and frame reinforcements, thenbasic nitrous dry kit, then a Vortech A-Trim. After my 3rd time R&R head gaskets I bought a new bare 5.0 block, had it machined then I installed a 347ci stroker kit that I built as an application specific build...for street-strip max rpm limited to 6000. Had the Vortech upgraded to an S-Trim with 10 rib pulley kit,Cobra intake-ported lower, Edelbrock Victor Jr aluminum heads with big exh valves, full length 1 3/4" headers to full 2 1/2" exh sys. Camshaft and the degreeing was the key to low to mid range power. On a rear wheel dyno it made 556 horsepower at 5800 rpm and 576 lbs torque at 4800 rpm but most of that was all in by 4200rpm with 11 lbs of max boost and of course on good gas.Although I used properlyinstalled ARP mainbearing studs with a girdle the stock bottom end requiredrelativly low max rpm.
Trans was a Tremec 3550 HDw/Pro 5.0 shifter.
With a 4 pt roll cage and the front sway bar removed on 28" x9" M/T ET DRAG slicks with 7 lbs of air pressure it ran 10.90s ata click over 130mph. Due to lack of suspension mods 60ft was a lathargic 1.60. I could even floor it until 3rd gear.

 

When you reinstallthe brake calipers, use a accurate torque wrench and apply 37 lb. torque to the caliper bolts and NOT AN OUNCE MORE. The threads in the cast iron steering knuckle are muchweaker than the yield strength of the caliper bolt.That is why NAPA offers a oversize caliper bolt that cuts new threads as you install it.It is 3/8" longer than a OEM bolt and will self center as you install it and cut new threads.That will give you a another chance a saving a $400 steering knuckle.

You will be amazed at the difference in cost of the hub/bearing assemblies with ABS sensor.
AC Delco: $303.00
GM: $286.00
NAPA: $201.00
National: $140.00
Timken: $104.00
E-bay: $52.00.

Is themore expensive AC Delco hub/bearingassembly worth that much morethan the one listed on E-bay?

 

I prefer Timken. In my opinion they make the best bearings for our application. And according to your price sheet not a bad deal either.

 

I prefer Timken bearings but they are verydifficult to find in the normal places. Timken is a worldwide company and their automotive productsare soldto variousauto parts franchise companies who rebox them. NAPA bearings may be made by Timken or more likely by BCA/National.Timken Bearings are made in Mexico, Poland, Italy and the United State but their quality control is just as good as it has always been, regardless of where they are made. I wish I could say that about AC Delco.

A&W Bearing & Supply Co. Inc. ( www.bearingplace.com ) is located near me and I have bought Timken ball bearing toroller bearing conversionsfor my '59 Chevy Impala, '55 Chevy and '62Pontiacfrom A&W Bearing & Supply.Their walk-in customer prices are always list price (in the stratosphere) and the GMbearing coversionhas been discontinued. So, I don't plan on buying Timken bearings from them unless I cannot get thosebearings anywhere else.