thank you

 

I just put one in mine a while back and so far, so good. I've used a few of them in other vehicles in the past and been happy with those, too. Their warranty is tough to beat.

 

That’s good to hear. Did it come with everything you needed or did you have to get some other things? Like I think I’ll have to get a new oil cooler.

 

It came with an oil pump but not much else, IIRC. I bought the "good" FelPro lower intake gaskets, oil pan and valve cover gaskets, a new timing cover, hoses, motor mounts, thermostat, oil pressure sender, knock sensor, and probably a bunch of stuff I'm forgetting. I don't run an oil cooler on mine, so I didn't need to replace it. I did buy a new aftermarket aluminum radiator, though.

 

Xander, if you can afford the GM Goodwrench engine, that is probably the way to go and putting it in yourself will save some money and gain some knowledge about how that goes.

Sometimes.. SOMETIMES.. You can hear the engine run before you buy it, if you buy from a yard that offers that. It is really good piece of mind. Engine may cost a little more, maybe, and you can hear if it knocks or not. Had some engines bought from EBay.. it gets in, it gets connected, it is time to start it up the first time and let it run and check for leaks.. and the knock comes. This is why I don't think I trust EBay for an engine anymore... And compression numbers don't mean much, the engine (if used) either runs well (did the vehicle get hit in the rear? Scrapped with a good engine? It could have been.) Or it doesn't (did the vehicle flip upside down and run without oil until it stalled? Did it crash into a pole and overheat from a busted radiator? Was it scrapped because the engine began knocking and they only want 300 or 400 for it? It may have.) . So... sometimes.. you want to hear it run. Unless you KNOW it is a Grade A Part and dont have much reason to suspect it is a knocker.

Mine also "sounds loudest from the wheel well" and this is probably because the dead bearing is in the oil pan and as much as you want to believe it isnt, it is tapping against the oil pan or lower block like a woodpecker.

No threadjack here, but when the guy suggests a local engine from either Camden, Paterson or "somewhere closer" in Central NJ, I will not be surprised. Probably because the cost of putting another one in is about the same or less than?? !!!! if they even open it up at all, and see what we already know.. guessing at if it needs upper head/crank work, as it may.

Maybe, maybe, maybe, I can get away with 500 for a local engine, about 1000 to put it in, !and about 100 for trans fluid, spark plug and wires, oil, and an unrelated repair. That would be less than the cost of that GM Goodwrench engine, but it could get me back to where I was.. perfectly running vehicle.. I Over-aggressively SeaFoamed mine (just kept doing it) and that - or similar revving and racing - will do that to an engine of ANY mileage.

Short version: If you can swing the GM Goodwrench engine, get it. Yes, that is the best choice. And our trucks will run like new again. No sweat. We also get all new trans fluid, pretty much so, that is a bonus. Keeping that trans nice and healthy.