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98 4.3 vortec intake gasket change

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  #11  
Old 03-01-2013, 12:15 PM
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Thanks for the diagram Captain but the finial measurment isn't there I have the Hyanes Service manual for the engine so i do have the torque specs.
 
  #12  
Old 03-01-2013, 03:09 PM
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Good call on the final pass torque spec, I'll have to fix that. Final pass torque is 132 inch pounds. Make sure you clean the bolt threads and the threads in the heads, then put new thread sealer on the bolt threads. The torque is so low they tend to "walk" out from vibration when the engine is running, and the thread sealer secures them in place. DON'T over-torque the bolts.
 
  #13  
Old 03-01-2013, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedvoyager
Great thanks for all the help . I am more worried about getting it on straight as to not mess up the silicone thinking of some sort of hoist to hang it and lower it. I bought that felpro kit and figured to change the valve covers at the same time. was surprise at how much oil was on the valve covers must have been leaking for sometime. The last item that I need to figure out is the torque I've got the specs for it I just don't have an in/lb wrench and want to know the easiest way to convert to ft/lb or find one to barrow. RIght I haven't taken off the fan cause I don't have the tools to do it but its really not in the way. Sorry to hear about your cracked head I'm just hopping that I don't run into the same thing.


I haven't done the intake on a 4.3. (Yet.) Although I expect one is in my future. Here's a little tip.

If the bolts holding the intake down go straight down into the heads, get some all thread rod with the same diameter and thread as the bolts. Make 4 to 6 studs from it with a slot on the top for a screw driver. These will guide it straight down with no wiggling. I've done this on other engines of the era (90's Magnum engines in Dodges are bad about intake problems too).

Another tip is to take a bunch of "before" photos prior to tearing evetything down. If you can't remember where a certain plug goes, looking at the picture will help. I've also been known to label them. At least GM tends to use specific plugs for different connections.
 
  #14  
Old 03-01-2013, 08:06 PM
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Hey that is a great idea I'm gonna give that one two thumbs up @ ol' Grouch !
 
  #15  
Old 03-01-2013, 09:05 PM
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I agree, great idea. I've done that with cylinder heads and it works perfectly. If you can't find threaded rod, get a few bolts about 2" longer and cut the heads off. Take one of the original manifold bolts with you to match up the thread. If I remember correctly, they're metric. Lowes, Home Depot etc usually have a good selection.
 
  #16  
Old 03-02-2013, 06:53 PM
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Ok so after taking two days off to work my regular job and get some more parts together to finish the intake job which i'm going to do the valve covers also. I went and bought the threaded rod to make up the alignment bolts for the intake. You would think that the threads are metric since all the bolts are but it turned out to be 5/16ths with a thread count of 18 per inch course thread. A two foot rod was only $1.72 at my local Lowes. thanks everyone for the help and I will let you know how it turns out tomarrow.
 
  #17  
Old 03-04-2013, 08:58 PM
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Ok I'm going to call the intake job a success. I would like to thank everyone there help. This was my first ever job this intense and i'm drivring the truck to work tomarrow. other then just taking a long time with all the parts that had to come off I think the hardest part was getting the new belt on WOW that thing just had a mind of it own. So to sum it up changed the intake gaskets valve gaskets, cleaned and degreased the top end changed the belt pvc air cleaner and did a oil chnge. Thanks again Captain Hook, Ol Grouch And Trouble
 
  #18  
Old 03-04-2013, 09:09 PM
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Good job, glad you got her going. Lotta work, and it can be overwhelming if you've never done one before.
 
  #19  
Old 03-05-2013, 03:50 AM
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Right on good job man
 
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