Yup, makes me cringe every time I hear it And you can avoid it so easily. Keep us posted.

 

Here's a question concerning installing the LIM. Since the LIM is so touchy and prone to leaks, I need to know if there is any reason I should not do what I am planning:

I have the GM TSM called for engine lift brackets (J41427) I use to remove my Blazer engines. As you may know, these bolt into the same holes as 4 of the LIM bolts. It strikes me as logical that once I properly torque (in sequence) the LIM bolts, the least amount of bolt removal, the better.

So, when I install the LIM, instead of using the actual manifold bolts where the lift brackets are to be installed, I'll instead immediately mount the lift brackets using their bolts as if they are the manifold bolts (torquing to spec and sequence). Then once I have installed the engine I'll install the actual manifold bolts immediately after I remove the lift brackets.

My logic being it will be one less time that bolts are removed and installed. As opposed to installing the actual bolts, then removing them to install the lift bracket bolts, then removing them to re-install the actual bolts.

Any reason this is a bad idea?

 

Sounds like a good plan to me When you tighten the bolts with the brackets installed, don't exceed the final pass torque spec, (132 inch pounds) for the LIM bolts. Check out the "Notice" in the image below:

 

Lower intake question. As a reminder, replading engine due to bad thrust bearing, everything else mechanical about the engine was good to go. While cleaning the surface of the LIM, I found some "imperfections". See pics (I am referring to the imperfections around the big rust colored square, not the square itself). It is a given that replacing the LIM is the ultimate way to go. However, being the imperfections seem to be within the rubber part of the Fel-Pro gasket, I wanted to ask about a couple of other options. Can I 1) use some JB Weld Aluminum filler to fill the imperfections, 2) fill them with some sealant, or 3) leave it alone? Or does what you see require a new LIM in your opinion. Obviously cost of having to buy a LIM is why I am asking this question. Thanks!

 

Looks borderline to me. I've read articles that specifically mention "don't use RTV". However, I'd be tempted to try the JB weld aluminum and mill it down smooth without damaging the manifold. There's a difference between "being tempted", and actually recommending it though Worst case scenario, it'll leak coolant.

 

It's been a couple months since I last posted. Fact is I haven't touched my Blazer since April due to some unexpected back surgery. Plan on picking up where i left off within the next couple of weeks. Which is cleaning the engine compartment in preparation to drop in the engine.

 

I have a question that regardless which way the answer goes will probably be a dumb question. Feel free to respond with the preface of “Dear Dum-Dum…” Within the last few weeks I have finally gotten back on what has become a project as opposed to a repair/replace. Can’t help it…every time I move on to the next part I end up breaking out the “toothbrush”. Right now I have been somewhat detailing the engine compartment, frame, doing body work (brand new to bodywork, so I’m very slow),etc.

Anyway, I finished bolting everything back onto the replacement engine back last March or so. I finished that with oil priming the engine as you saw in the previous post. Since then, the engine has been on the stand as shown in the pic with the oil still in the pan as I left it. My question is: When I finally install the engine in the truck and reconnect the oil cooler lines (which were also removed and cleaned) is it necessary for me to oil prime the engine again using the priming tool?

Since I did the prime in March, it strikes me that it is no different than if the engine was still in truck and it just hadn't been started in the last year. On the other hands, as you can see in the pic, I have the filter directly connected to the engine and once I install it…and install the oil filter adapter lines…does the fact there is no oil in those lines make a difference that requires another prime?

 

To be on the safe side, Just before you start it, prime it. Line up the rotor with the "6" and the dampener marks on the timing marks at the same time. Then remove the distributor. While you've got the drill in there priming, manually rotate the crankshaft slowly clockwise exactly two revolutions until the dampener marks line up again. Then drop the distributor back in so the rotor points to the "6". Priming will also fill the oil lines and the oil filter. I wouldn't take a chance on all that work you've done. Sure looks pretty!


When rotating the crank, 2 revs is good. If you go more, make sure you turn it an even number of times. If you don't, the distributor will be out of phase and the engine probably won't start.

 

Geez, I would not want to put that engine in the truck, I would want to display it in the middle of my living room.

 

I agree!