I have a 98 jimmy with a 4.3L that spun a bearing after the intake gasket leaked coolant into the oil. The truck is in excellent condition (174,000 miles) so I would like to get a long block replacement. Any suggestions on where to buy a quality engine would be much appreciated.

 

There's a really good thread about engine problems where the gentleman ended up with an engine from Jeg's for a decent price it seems. Karl's performance in Ankeny IA, has decent prices too... Both of those examples are reman GM blocks I think.

 

Thanks for the response. I should have looked harder here in the forum before posting. I was a little overwhelmed with the amount of info my Google search gave me and came looking for advice. I know better than to ask a common question before taking the time to try and find the answer myself, but I did it anyway. I apologize and thank you for your patience.

 

I got a 5.7 out of a place in Iowa, good price, warranty, and included shipping both ways to pick up core. http://www.rydellparts.com/

 

I would appreciate it.

 

When I replaced my engine I found out from calling around that the stores like Autozone, Advance, Pep Boys, etc all get their engines from the same place, they just put a different name on them. I ended up buying my long block from Autozone for $1700. Came with a 3 year warranty.

EDIT: Here's the link to my replacement thread https://blazerforum.com/forum/engine...acement-76733/

 

I think that might have been me.

For the 1998 Jimmy/Blazer you need a GM#12491866. Per search today, Jegs does not sell this particlar engine, but Summit does for $1799.97 + $200 core - no tax - free shipping. Summit should pay for the return shipping (my experience is that they will on cores if you call up customer service and ask them for a return shipping label). On my new engine, Jegs did not want a core and I paid a little bit more, but I wanted to keep my old engine anyway. Warranty is 3 years/100K miles. Mine came with GM oil pump/screens and a new GM front timing cover. You will need to reuse your old balancer and flywheel. Mine had the timing chain tensioner upgrade installed. I don't think anyone (including Autozone, Jasper, etc) can touch this kind of deal. After a bearing failure, make sure you replace your radiator to get out all old crap left in the oil cooler from the old engine or your warranty will be void. Also make sure remote oil filter adapter and oil cooler lines are very clean. I replaced both of my oil pressure bypass valves in my remote oil filter adapter (one is pretty difficult to R&R), but that may be overkill (my favorite thing). I did find a piece of GM red silicone in one of them. Document all parts with receipts for warranty purposes. Prime the oiling system!! (Do this with a special tool and the intake manifold on). I used Comp Cams 10W30 break in oil for intial start up/break in and changed over to regular 5W30 at around 3 hours run time. Don't forget to relearn the crank sensor after the first 1/2 hour of running (try to keep above 2000 as much as possible until then, and varied RPM - SES light will be on with PO300 and should go off after that). Don't let someone keep trying to hit the fuel cutoff (high RPM) again and again when relearning the crank sensor - obvious they don't know what they are doing if they can't get it to take first time.

To relearn crank sensor....... With engine warmed up 1) turn key on 2) clear codes 3) set park brake enough to turn the brake indicator light on 4) hold foot brake down firmly without letting up 5) start engine 6) THEN and only then trigger the relearn procedure and immediately raise the RPMs to fuel cutoff point (about 4500). If the computer cuts off the fuel and RPMs drop, then the procedure was successful. If unsuccessful, turn key off for a few seconds and start again doing #1, #2, #4, #5, #6 a second time. Good luck and best wishes.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1866/overview/

 

Thanks for all the great information. It is much appreciated. I will be making my decision after a couple more paychecks and I will post how it works out. (likely with a few more questions along the way)

 

Good luck with your project. If you haven't had the engine out of a 4WD Blazer before, you're in for a real treat! There are ways to get at the bolts on the trans and back of the heads (ground straps, fuel line clamp) without removing the transfer case and dropping the trans down for access per factory instructions. Engine can definitely be pulled with trans in place, but you will want to pull the engine with the passenger side exhaust manifold removed and the steering shaft disconnected from the box. Just come back and ask how to do it when you are ready to get started.

 

Check out GM Goodwrench engines from your local dealerships or on line. I replaced my 4.3 in my 89 with a GM Goodwrench Engine that I purchased from a local Chevy Dealership. I also installed a GM Goodwrench transmission when the time came. I have over 100K on the engine now and no issues.