a few weeks ago my wife and i were driving home from vacation while on the road my blazer started acting funny like it was a bit sluggish or not getting fuel we stopped i put in some injector cleaner and we continued well so did the problem we almost made it home when she died on me after sitting on the interstate for an hour it started up again and we drove to the nearest shop after being there a while we were finally able to duplicate the problem for the mech. he determined the fuel pump was shot and would need a new one so we got a new one also a new filter well here we are now problem seemed fixed at first but now is worse than ever shortly after starting and driving she wants to sputter and die when accelerating and slowing for stops i get home park it and after a few seconds fuel begins to just pour out of the Canister vent solenoid above the spare tire i thought ok here is my problem i replaced that part but still the same results?? i am out of ideas as to what is going on here i checked the filter is on correctly i wonder if the fuel pump was correctly installed please help thanks

1998 blazer LS 4 door 4.3 and maybe 150 miles since new pump

 

Year, make, model & engine are necessary for proper diagnosis. How many miles since the pump was replaced before the canister started leaking?

If or when liquid fuel runs out of the canister, it is destroyed and it must be replaced. Before it's replaced, the cause must be determined and repaired.

If this is 1995 or newer, (2nd gen Blazer), there are 3 lines attached to the fuel pump module:
3/8" is fuel pressure from the module to the injectors.
5/16" is fuel return from the regulator to the tank.
1/4" is fuel vapor from the tank to the canister.
Check the return & vapor lines at the fuel pump module, they may have been installed incorrectly when the module was replaced.

Also check fuel pressure and leakdown, you may have gotten a faulty pump module.

 

well after i changed the vent valve above the spare tire and got the same problems i decided to get an expert opinion so i scheduled a diagnostics eval from the dealership i bought it was told $50 for that ok no problem so the next day i call to see whats up well am told at that time all is well that they had fixed the problem changed the vent valve, (2nd time now) and also the purge canister $150 buks I wondered but ok sure she said it was fixed well never made it home problems still the same and getting worse so now i have a new pump, filter, purge can, and vent valve everything in the back is new problem still the same now we go under the hood i have a book but it is kinda vague for this so some youtube vids and lots of google searching helped tremendously for this amature i removed the upper intake phlenum and in here i changed the fuel pressure regulator put it back together changed the oil and she seems to do pretty good so far the real test will be tomorrow when i shall put it thru some paces to test her out after doing this job it sounds and looks scarier than it really is so i have decided in the near future that terrible looking spider in there will have to be put out for a much better one

 

well after driving to work and back a few times things were great until it started acting up again mostly when driving at a low rate of speed ( in town ) or when i slow to a stop at the lights or stop sign it wants to die so back to the drawing board i am wondering if the EGR has anything to do with my problems from what i read the symptoms seem the same but i can not keep sticking money into this truck blindly so i will schedule another diag eval from the chevy dealer i will never return to the place i bought this truck after they hoodwinked me i realize he is nothing more than a crook in nice clothes

 

if it wasnt a ac delco or delphi pump,that may be the problem. these blazers eat cheap pumps for lunch.

 

If the service engine soon light is on, and following the flow chart instructs you to replace the EGR valve, fine, if not, the valve is not the problem. Have you checked fuel pressure and leakdown yet?

 

ok you got a new pump, new canister, filter, new vent solenoid in the rear,new regulator, now next thing I would do is check the fuel pressure should be around 60 and drop to like 55 I think and hold there for a few secs I believe.....one other thing the evap system seems complicated on these trucks its really not you have replaced about everything in it except for one thing...when you took the plenum off to do the regulator to the left (passenger side) lookin at the motor there is a purge solenoid there it has a line (plastic) with a green cap....mine stopped workin and I could put gas in the truck and it didn't set the code it was supposed to... so I mean other then that (large vacuum leaks) but to cause that we're talkin considerable size....but first an foremost check fuel pressure