Hey guys, I made the following video before I found where the leak is. I've now discovered that it was indeed coming from the oil cooler lines. I removed the old oil cooler lines and put on new ones from NAPA. IF I DON'T GET THIS CAR FIXED TODAY THAN I DON'T GET TO TAKE IT HOME FOR THANKSGIVING :'(

video: jimmy - YouTube

Here's a link to give you some background on this repair. How To Fix An Oil Leak: Replacing Oil Cooler Lines In A 1999 GMC Jimmy

I've done everything, but even after I connect the oil lines and put in the retaining clips, oil still leaks at a quick pace from these areas. I've even taken out the oil line connection, cleaned and inspected it, wrapped the threads in teflon tape and reinstalled them. I've removed the oil lines at this connection several times, removed the retaining clip, and then reinstalled several times to make sure that it wasn't just that I hadn't fully locked in the line.

I'm at a loss. I really don't want to be in a situation where my car is broken indefinitely. I'm at school 3 hrs from home and so I have limited resources to work on it and no money to have it looked at. I guess until I receive a few good replies I'll just keep checking those retaining clips. Worse comes to worst, the gf and I will go home for thanksgiving in her. . .TOYOTA

 

How fast is it leaking? If it's only a few drips every once in awhile while running, maybe just schedule stops ever 30 minutes or so to check oil level & keep a few quarts in the back.

When you removed the adapters from the driver side radiator tank (the oil cooler), did you inspect the o-rings in the adapter? If so, how did they look? Are the e-clips bent? If they are, they can allow the lines to not seat properly and leak at the quick connector.

 

I'm afraid the leak might be too quick to schedule stops. It's a very quick drip, almost a slow pour. I may make another video of it in a few minutes to show the exact problem. I was thinking of getting new quick connectors at the radiator, but they didn't look bad. Regardless, to save me the trip maybe I'll make a trip to the auto parts store and get both the new clips and new quick connectors. Yeah, I think I'll make that video. . .I'll show the car running and the oil leak, then remove the quick connect fitting and show that. Should have it up in about half an hour. There is considerable play of the lines within the quick connect so I'm thinking it could be the e-clips. I've removed and reinstalled the clips so many times now that it would make sense that they'd be bent. I believe the original reason why the car leaked that made me take off the clips and redo my install was because while installing the lower line I inadvertently loosened the quick connect fitting from the radiator which probably caused the first leak I noticed.

 

Remove the entire air cleaner box and see if you can change the leak flow by pushing in on and/or just moving around the lines where they enter the adapter. The engine can be run without the air box, just keep the MAF sensor attached to the tube running to the throttle body.

 

here's the video, I forgot to show the play in the lines while connected
I'm thinking I'm going to ride my bike over to NAPA and get some e-clips and give that a try. If that works, 2938472938 internet points to you. If not, I'm done trying until after Thanksgiving break.

http://youtu.be/PD3JnF6ynMI

 

What happens to the leak when you move the line around? The upper line looks like it might have tension on it, pulling up & away from the radiator; it shouldn't.

Do you have the means of accurately measuring the old vs new diameter of the line where it goes into the quick connector & seals on the o-ring?

 

The problem is not with the diameter of the line, as I am using the same NAPA replacement part that the mechanic for the previous owner used when fixing this problem the first time it happened. That is, the install part is the same brand and diameter as the part it's replacing.

There is slight tension on the lines that I couldn't seem to eliminate, it was much worse when I first installed it.

Is your thinking that if the leak waxes and wanes with the movement of the line that this proves that the e-clip is not doing its job?

I'm heading to NAPA to get some more e-clips as soon as i figure out a way to get there without a car.

 

Do you know how these lines are manufactured or about manufacturing in general? The reason I ask is because there are variations in EVERYTHING that is manufactured. Parts should be QA inspected, but nothing short of high spec items is 100% inspected and defects do slip through.

Just because it is the same brand doesn't mean that it is the same diameter. If you haven't measured it with mics or vernier calipers, you don't know what it is and don't really know whether it is ok or not. Even a few thousands of an inch can be the difference between a line that seals and one that doesn't, especially if there is tension on the line. The fit between the o-ring and the nose on the line is what seals, but that can be compromised by a line that is too small. If the line is allowed to **** in the bore, it won't seal. The e-clip only ensures that it stays in the bore to the proper depth, not that it stays concentric with the bore like the fit of the line to the bore does.

There should be no tension on the line when it enters the adapter. If there is, you should adjust (bend/twist/etc) the hard lines to relieve the pressure.

You seem to be overlooking/dismissing the exact point I am trying to get you to prove/disprove and that is a manufacturing defect in the lines themselves.

But I don't know why I'm justifying my position here... Do you want help? You don't seem too receptive and are ignoring the steps that I am presenting to you for some reason or another... Since you still haven't answered my question in regards to simple observation to manipulation of the line, this is where I head out. Good luck with your problem. Hopefully you will be more receptive to the recommendations of others.

 

If I seemed dismissive of your suggestions, it definitely was not my intent so my apologizes. I'm nothing but appreciative to receive your recommendations. I am familiar with specifications and tolerances, but no I do not have the ability to check them at school, I have no calipers here or any tool to perform that function. I believe your point of staying "concentric to the bore" may be the problem here. When I get home from Thanksgiving I'm going to have to crawl under and move the lines around as you said. I had to do this a little bit to get them into the position they are now, but I was a bit scared to move them because I didn't want to crack a line, breaking my brand new part. Now that I know that you have to bend it for the install I'll be less cautious.

In retrospect, I do not think the problem is in the quick connect, and I wouldn't be surprised if it's not within the e-clips either, because as you specified they eclips are doing their job of retaining the lines. The lines themselves do not go straight into the quick connect though, and I believe that's the problem.
I've hit the shot clock for now though, so I'll have to leave the Jimmy and come back to it on Monday.