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Chugging on 1-2 shift

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  #21  
Old 11-25-2011, 10:53 AM
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Yes. Sometimes several lull/surges before the shift.
 
  #22  
Old 11-25-2011, 10:55 AM
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If that is so, then run through the P0300 OBD2 code listing, including the linked thread and work through everything methodically until the misfire condition is cured. You should also be able to look at the misfire counters for each cylinder to see if you can narrow it down to a specific bank or cylinder.
 
  #23  
Old 11-25-2011, 10:58 AM
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Ugh... I hate vehicles, lol

Time to go start ruling things out, I suppose. I've been doing research and have a few things that could be going bad.

distributor may have play in it
plugs
wires
cap/rotor
injector
blocked cat
coil

I replaced the plugs/wires/cap/rotor a few months ago but unless I'm mistaken, I used the cheap aftermarket stuff, so I'll start there if a fuel pressure test looks good.
 
  #24  
Old 11-25-2011, 11:02 AM
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Aftermarket caps & rotors have been known to be problematic on these engines for sure. What kind of plugs did you put in? Did you check the gap before installing them?

I have also run into this situation more than once... Plug wires pushing off of the terminals on the cap due to trapped air. This can happen more so when dielectric grease is used and the trapped air isn't allowed to escape while sliding the boot onto the terminal.
 
  #25  
Old 11-25-2011, 11:05 AM
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Plugs are Autolite I believe, I did check the gap, and pulled them all back out a few weeks ago to double check that I had them gapped right.

I have never run grease on the plugs, personally. Never really understood what it's for and my dad always told me not to use it.
 
  #26  
Old 11-25-2011, 11:09 AM
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Dielectric grease in the boots helps to allow them to be disassembled easier later on down the road. If you never intend on doing the plugs/wires again, then it isn't really necessary, but it is something I always do regardless.

The plugs might be your problem. The AC Delco Double Platinum plug is by far the most preferred plug in these engines.
 
  #27  
Old 11-25-2011, 11:12 AM
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Alright. Money is tight currently, would you recommend replacing plugs, wires or cap/rotor first? I can't afford to redo it all (at over 100 bucks for the cheap stuff) right now.
 
  #28  
Old 11-25-2011, 11:26 AM
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Do you still have the old parts? If so, how did they look. Wires really shouldn't be affecting things, but the cap/rotor/plugs definitely can be contributing. If the old cap & rotor look good, try swapping them back in. The same for the plugs if they were AC Delco double platinums.
 
  #29  
Old 11-25-2011, 11:26 AM
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Nope, tossed all of the old parts.
 
  #30  
Old 11-25-2011, 11:35 AM
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Damn. Might want to think about keeping parts, especially if replacement was preventative maintenance. They still might have life left in them to use in a pinch.

Here are the prices & PNs from RockAuto.com:
AC Delco Cap - D328A - $26.79
AC Delco Rotor - D465 - $8.34
AC Delco Dbl Plat - 41-993 - $5.58ea x 6 = $33.48
AC Delco Iridium - 41-101 - $5.56ea x 6 = $33.36
Total Dbl Plat = $68.61
Total Iridium = $68.49 <-- What I would do
 


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