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Coolant removal from top of block?

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Old 08-09-2018, 12:00 AM
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Default Coolant removal from top of block?

Hi all,

I've been wanting to do a proper full coolant replacement which ideally would entail removing the block drain plugs. However, I tried this on the driver's side plug and it is stuck. I fear trying to remove it would only break it off.

So, as an alternative, I was wondering if either by removing the water pump if a stiff plastic tube could be inserted into the block to access the coolant that can normally only be drained by removing the block drain plugs. With the tubing inserted, the coolant could be drawn out by a small pump and/or siphoned out.

I was thinking of replacing the water pump as part of preventative maintenance so taking off the water pump would be for more than just the coolant change.

Has anyone tried this? Thoughts? Or should I just shell out the money and have a shop do a proper flush and refill of the coolant?

Thanks,

Christine
 
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by christine_208 View Post
Hi all,

I've been wanting to do a proper full coolant replacement which ideally would entail removing the block drain plugs. However, I tried this on the driver's side plug and it is stuck. I fear trying to remove it would only break it off.

So, as an alternative, I was wondering if either by removing the water pump if a stiff plastic tube could be inserted into the block to access the coolant that can normally only be drained by removing the block drain plugs. With the tubing inserted, the coolant could be drawn out by a small pump and/or siphoned out.

I was thinking of replacing the water pump as part of preventative maintenance so taking off the water pump would be for more than just the coolant change.

Has anyone tried this? Thoughts? Or should I just shell out the money and have a shop do a proper flush and refill of the coolant?

Thanks,

Christine
I did the swap a couple of weeks ago by simply removing the top radiator hose and catching the dexcool in some buckets while running water into the radiator via a garden hose. Once it started coming out clear I just let it continue cycling water through the system for about 45 minutes to be sure all the dexcool was out. Then I stopped everything where it was and drained the water from the radiator and refilled it with the green stuff (full strength). Lastly I burped any remaining air pockets out by parking nose up and slightly left to get the radiator opening at the highest point above everything else. So far I've had no issues and I check it every time I fill up with gas.
Was there a specific reason why you wouldn't do it this way?
 
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Old 08-10-2018, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by GreenBlazer2002 View Post
I did the swap a couple of weeks ago by simply removing the top radiator hose and catching the dexcool in some buckets while running water into the radiator via a garden hose. Once it started coming out clear I just let it continue cycling water through the system for about 45 minutes to be sure all the dexcool was out. Then I stopped everything where it was and drained the water from the radiator and refilled it with the green stuff (full strength). Lastly I burped any remaining air pockets out by parking nose up and slightly left to get the radiator opening at the highest point above everything else. So far I've had no issues and I check it every time I fill up with gas.
Was there a specific reason why you wouldn't do it this way?
Oh, I was hoping to come up with a less messy way of doing the flush and refill. Also my local water is a bit hard and would like to know I got it full of distilled water instead of the well water.

 
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:37 AM
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My local pet stores call our water "liquid rock" in terms of fish keeping because it's so hard. The solution to pollution is dilution. After draining the garden hose water from the lower radiator hose I filled it with distilled water and drove around. I drained that and was going to refill and repeat with distilled water but it looked clean enough to test for hardness with and aquarium test kit. Without going that crazy (even I have limits), I just filled it with 2 gallons of concentrate and topped it off with distilled water. That was 4 years ago and the coolant looks clear, smells, and tests fine.
 
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by christine_208 View Post
Oh, I was hoping to come up with a less messy way of doing the flush and refill. Also my local water is a bit hard and would like to know I got it full of distilled water instead of the well water.
Ih ok. I hadn't considered what condition the water you have access to may be in. I have well water but it's highly filtered before it reaches the house. It's aquarium worthy, to say the least 😁. So to me, my method just seemed more convenient, and the mess of it was no bother. Hope you figure out a way to purify your water as it goes in. Would be much healthier for the innards of your cooling system. Let us know if you get solve that one.
 
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Old 09-21-2018, 12:17 AM
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christine_208, When you do a radiator / engine block flush, the engine has to be hot enough to open the thermostat, or just remove it before you start is best. Also remove the coolant overflow container and clean it thoroughly. I have installed an adaptor in the heater hose that runs into the engine block and hook up a water hose. I remove the bottom radiator hose. Turn the water hose wide open. Keep flushing until the water is clear. After it is clear, move the water hose into the top of the radiator and flush until clear. Fill the system with distilled water, run the engine a few minutes, then dump. If the water is clear, Remove the water hose and fill the system with antifreeze mix. Use distilled water in the antifreeze mix, or buy the 50/50 antifreeze already mixed. Good luck.
 

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Old 09-21-2018, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by christine_208 View Post
Hi all,

I've been wanting to do a proper full coolant replacement which ideally would entail removing the block drain plugs. However, I tried this on the driver's side plug and it is stuck. I fear trying to remove it would only break it off.

So, as an alternative, I was wondering if either by removing the water pump if a stiff plastic tube could be inserted into the block to access the coolant that can normally only be drained by removing the block drain plugs. With the tubing inserted, the coolant could be drawn out by a small pump and/or siphoned out.

I was thinking of replacing the water pump as part of preventative maintenance so taking off the water pump would be for more than just the coolant change.

Has anyone tried this? Thoughts? Or should I just shell out the money and have a shop do a proper flush and refill of the coolant?

Thanks,

Christine
I don't see any reason why this would not work if that is what you want to do. It does seem like a bit of overkill, but I've done worse overkill myself in the past!
 

Last edited by LesMyer; 09-21-2018 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 09-21-2018, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by LesMyer View Post
I don't see any reason why this would not work if that is what you want to do. It does seem like a bit of overkill, but I've done worse overkill myself in the past!
Yeah, I'm chuckling as I definitely have gone the overkill route at times. LOL However, I have found it is often worth doing things right the first time. And besides, it can also provide peace of mind.

I think what I've decided to do is just use lots refills and drains to dilute what is in the system. According to my calculations, and depending on how much actually comes out at each drain, 3 full drains and refills should be enough with one final drain and refill with 1.5 gall of 100% antifreeze followed by topping off with more water.

Quick question: Does the specification for the total coolant system capacity (11.7 qts) include the volume in the expansion/overflow tank?
 
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