Yes sir as stated earlier the Blazer stopped running in the first week of Sept. So 9 to 10 weeks.

Your next question was on cylinder compression.
If the spark plugs were wet and length of time to dry. Accompanied with photos of the the electrodes.
No liquid blowing from cylinder.

Cyl 1 @ 170 psi. No concerns with plug
Cyl 2 @ 180 psi. No concerns
​Cyl 3 @ 180 psi. No concerns
​​​​​​Cyl 4 @ 185 psi. Soot covered/ wet /dried quick
Cyl 5 @ 190 psi
Cyl 6 @ 185 psi Soot coveref/ wet/ dried quick

1

3

5

2

4

6

 

To me, those spark plug gaps look wide and what do you mean by this line?

 

OK - so compression is good and no big smoking gun with flooding the spark plugs.

Put the spark plugs back in and connect the coil, but leave the fuel pump relay out for the next test.

See if it will start for a few seconds (after cranking for unknown time) when you pour half a cup of FRESH gas directly into the throttle body. Report your experience.

 

Yes sir, on the distributor at the bottom there is a small mark with a number 6 that I understand to mean for 6 cyl vehicles. Its also the point at where the rotor should be pointing at #1 cylinder tdc. Is that correct or ive been misinformed.

Btw... Is it. 050 or. 060 gap. Ive read both and i also read different plugs may use different gaps. I have them at. 060 but I used an old disc gapper that may be off.

 

Yes sir, so far so good then.

 

Yes, so far so good. Mechanically the engine appears to be fine. If it starts on the 1/2 cup then we will know that ignition is not the problem and will go to the fuel system. Probably a good time to check routing of spark plug wires. The cylinder numbers are on the distributor cap terminals.

 

Yes sir thank you again. Im helping my parents today and will follow through with your instructions as soon as i return. But I wanted to go ahead and confirm my wiring is correct before I put the gas in the throttle body and attempt to start it.

This is how I run the plug wires.

 

Wiring is correct as drawn.

 

After a long day at the folks all beaten and bruised i came home to get the next step done just as you instructed. (as it continued to drizzle the whole time).

I cleaned the plugs then gapped them to. 060. They were at.. 050 to. 060. After everything was back as it should except for the distributor cap (ill explain in a minute). I poured a 1/4 beer can of fresh gas in the throttle body

AND IT STARTED!
So i put the fuel relay back in and I ran it for a few minutes maybe 5. I turned it off and it fired back up. It sounded good with no backfire or hesitation. Then I remembered changing the coolant temp sensor without charging the anti-freeze. So i turned it off so not to overheat it from the lost liquids.

After a few more minutes i called my mom to let her know the great news. Only there was none because now it wont start nor could I recreate that exciting moment over.

The only problem was i broke the dog ear on the distributor cap. I broke the dog ear on the distributor over a year ago and have been using plastic zio ties to hold it tight. Well tonight trying to break the zio tie off it pulled the cap off the distributor while it was fastened.

But it started in spite of that and im very hopeful and extremely grateful to you for taking the time to help. It hasn't even puffed out a backfire in ovee 2 months. I will replace the distributor and cap this next Friday when I get paid.

Whats next sir. You are a godsend.

 

Kinda sounds like you have bad fuel in the tank.

If you think there is no internal damage to the distributor cap and you can keep the cap in place.......................

Pull the FP relay and crank for 30 seconds. Then pour the 1/4 beer can of fresh gas in again. See if it starts. If not, charge the battery up again - then pull the spark plugs (don't worry about pulling #3), disable the coil again, and crank 30 seconds to clear things out. Then dump another 1/4 beer can of gas down the throttle body, plug in the coil, and try again. If it starts, don't plug that fuel pump relay in - let the engine run out of gas and die. Report your experiences. If it starts like this (and I think that it will), we will do a couple of tests on your fuel system and then a test on your fuel.

IIRC you said that you have Torque. If you mean Torque Pro, there is a sticky at the top of the 2nd gen forum that describes how to configure Torque Pro to read Cam Sensor Retard. This will be important to check after replacing your distributor. Needs to be 0 +/- 2 degrees. So you might as well get that configuration done too.

Don't pay big bucks for a distributor. Get you one of these. Almost all are same China distributor and are 100% metal that won't break again. I have 65K miles on one of them. Don't worry about getting engine on TDC#1 with distributor pointing to the 6. Just note exactly where the rotor is pointing before you pull the old distributor (Don't move the engine in meantime), and then install the new one with rotor pointing to exactly the same position. The gears are helical cut so you need to start ahead of where you want to end up and sometimes the oil pump shaft needs turned a smidge to get distributor to drop down all the way. You may know this stuff already, but it needs to be said.