Crank no start has fuel and spark. Everything replaced!!
To test with? I will do anything that will give us a leg up on the problem.
I guess you're asking that because of the fire hazard? I will have a thick blanket handy. I have put engine fires out with t-shirts in the paat.
Right now I am pulling the ac delco plug and checking for spark on the plug without cleaning oe drying it then putting the bosch back in. So far the number 2 had good spark.
"UPDATE" i pulled the 4 plug after putting the bosch back in and it fired off on the first rotation. Sputtered and died.
Keep fingers crossed im not going to check spark on the rest im just putting the bosch in.
I guess you're asking that because of the fire hazard? I will have a thick blanket handy. I have put engine fires out with t-shirts in the paat.
Right now I am pulling the ac delco plug and checking for spark on the plug without cleaning oe drying it then putting the bosch back in. So far the number 2 had good spark.
"UPDATE" i pulled the 4 plug after putting the bosch back in and it fired off on the first rotation. Sputtered and died.
Keep fingers crossed im not going to check spark on the rest im just putting the bosch in.
I've always been a bit scared to use it. But in moderation it might work ok here. Certainly would keep the plugs dry!
Yes sir, I think you have hit it on the head. So I put half the fuel i had been and pressed the pedal to the floor and it did want to fire off but did not. So i added a bit more gas for the hell of it and again nothing.
I knew that it wanted to because with the #2 plug switched to a never used bosch and the number 4 plug out it fired off.
So knowing that the battery was getting very low i pulled out my remote starter connected it in place of the starter relay and sprayed carb cleaner that did say extremely flammable hit the start button and.....
IT STARTED MY GOOD AND WISE FRIEND!
So we are looking at bad fuel? Because I have tested the fuel pressure time and time again.
65 psi when cranking
55 with key on
52 with key off and remains there longer than i have had time to clock it.
As a matter of fact it will still read 20 psi the next day after leaving the pressure tester on over night. Not only that but after i swapped injectors out of the the new MFI housing due to a crack i checked the the fuel regulator before putting the upper manifold back on. No leaks.
So whats next boss man?
I forgot to ask... What about non ethanol fuel? Is that something that would work better for testing?
Im wondering about the MFI injectors. I briefly mentioned it in my original post. I bought the spider injectors from Amazon. I must have put it in wrong because when I decided to check it for the leak it had a crack directly under the fuel inlet in the housing. So I looked up how the system worked and found out that I could pull the injectors out and put them in the old housing. And thats what I did. Its not a complicating setup really. I figured as long as the pins mated together properly it should be fine. But I havent done a pulse or nanoid test on it..
But I suppose they were working the other night when I put the fp relay in and ran it for a few minutes.
I knew that it wanted to because with the #2 plug switched to a never used bosch and the number 4 plug out it fired off.
So knowing that the battery was getting very low i pulled out my remote starter connected it in place of the starter relay and sprayed carb cleaner that did say extremely flammable hit the start button and.....
IT STARTED MY GOOD AND WISE FRIEND!
So we are looking at bad fuel? Because I have tested the fuel pressure time and time again.
65 psi when cranking
55 with key on
52 with key off and remains there longer than i have had time to clock it.
As a matter of fact it will still read 20 psi the next day after leaving the pressure tester on over night. Not only that but after i swapped injectors out of the the new MFI housing due to a crack i checked the the fuel regulator before putting the upper manifold back on. No leaks.
So whats next boss man?
I forgot to ask... What about non ethanol fuel? Is that something that would work better for testing?
Im wondering about the MFI injectors. I briefly mentioned it in my original post. I bought the spider injectors from Amazon. I must have put it in wrong because when I decided to check it for the leak it had a crack directly under the fuel inlet in the housing. So I looked up how the system worked and found out that I could pull the injectors out and put them in the old housing. And thats what I did. Its not a complicating setup really. I figured as long as the pins mated together properly it should be fine. But I havent done a pulse or nanoid test on it..
But I suppose they were working the other night when I put the fp relay in and ran it for a few minutes.
Last edited by Blaz_r; Nov 29, 2023 at 03:07 PM. Reason: Forgot a question and a statement.
Later on, if it reliably starts on the fresh gas - then we will install the fuel pressure tester and the relay but we won't crank the engine to deliver any of the old fuel. First we will make sure it has the initial 2-second fuel pump pulse to around 60 psi with KOEO and that it holds above 50psi for a few minutes. If that is OK - then the FP regulator is working and it's not leaking fuel internally into the intake, or back into the fuel pump. Then we jumper the relay connector and take about a pint sample of gasoline from the side tap on the fuel pressure gauge.
To test the gas for water, take a clear bottle and fill 1/2 with water. Mark the level with a sharpie. Now add approximately the same amount of fuel. If the water layer increases above the line, that is how much water was in your gasoline sample.
To test the gas for water, take a clear bottle and fill 1/2 with water. Mark the level with a sharpie. Now add approximately the same amount of fuel. If the water layer increases above the line, that is how much water was in your gasoline sample.
First we want to make sure 2-second pulse is there and there there are no leaks into the intake anywhere from the spider (causing flooding). I worry that you have pulled off injectors from one spider and put them in place on another - but we can tell for sure if there is any problem with this. If there is an internal leak, the pressure will not hold enough after the pulse ends. If the pressure does not hold above 50 for a bit, then either the spider is leaking or the check valve in the pump is bad.
So put the relay back in (DONT CRANK ENGINE OR TRY TO START) and hook up the fuel pressure gauge. Cycle the key on for 5 sec, then shut it off for 10. Repeat this and also bleed through the valve until all air is out of the system and pressure jumps up rapidly when key is first turned on. Now please do a few tests (AGAIN DONT CRANK ENGINE).
1.Max pressure while pump is working.
2.Pressure 5 sec after pump shuts off
3.Pressure 15 sec after pump shuts off
4.Pressure 30 sec after pump shuts off
5.Pressure 1 min after pump shuts off
Report please. Based on your comments I don't truly expect to find anything with this, but I also don't want to skip any steps at this point. Still please get out the fuel pressure gauge and humor me.
If pressure at 1 minute is still above 50, then go ahead and take the gasoline sample through the fuel pump pressure gauge tap by jumpering the fuel pump relay (again no cranking of engine). Do the test described above in the quote and report. If you need to know which terminals to jumper, please advise. (I always just used a pair of needle-nose pliers to jumper with).
Last edited by LesMyer; Nov 29, 2023 at 03:40 PM.
Yes sir, I think you have hit it on the head. So I put half the fuel i had been and pressed the pedal to the floor and it did want to fire off but did not. So i added a bit more gas for the hell of it and again nothing.
I knew that it wanted to because with the #2 plug switched to a never used bosch and the number 4 plug out it fired off.
So knowing that the battery was getting very low i pulled out my remote starter connected it in place of the starter relay and sprayed carb cleaner that did say extremely flammable hit the start button and.....
IT STARTED MY GOOD AND WISE FRIEND!
So we are looking at bad fuel? Because I have tested the fuel pressure time and time again.
65 psi when cranking
55 with key on
52 with key off and remains there longer than i have had time to clock it.
As a matter of fact it will still read 20 psi the next day after leaving the pressure tester on over night. Not only that but after i swapped injectors out of the the new MFI housing due to a crack i checked the the fuel regulator before putting the upper manifold back on. No leaks.
So whats next boss man?
I forgot to ask... What about non ethanol fuel? Is that something that would work better for testing?
Im wondering about the MFI injectors. I briefly mentioned it in my original post. I bought the spider injectors from Amazon. I must have put it in wrong because when I decided to check it for the leak it had a crack directly under the fuel inlet in the housing. So I looked up how the system worked and found out that I could pull the injectors out and put them in the old housing. And thats what I did. Its not a complicating setup really. I figured as long as the pins mated together properly it should be fine. But I havent done a pulse or nanoid test on it..
But I suppose they were working the other night when I put the fp relay in and ran it for a few minutes.
I knew that it wanted to because with the #2 plug switched to a never used bosch and the number 4 plug out it fired off.
So knowing that the battery was getting very low i pulled out my remote starter connected it in place of the starter relay and sprayed carb cleaner that did say extremely flammable hit the start button and.....
IT STARTED MY GOOD AND WISE FRIEND!
So we are looking at bad fuel? Because I have tested the fuel pressure time and time again.
65 psi when cranking
55 with key on
52 with key off and remains there longer than i have had time to clock it.
As a matter of fact it will still read 20 psi the next day after leaving the pressure tester on over night. Not only that but after i swapped injectors out of the the new MFI housing due to a crack i checked the the fuel regulator before putting the upper manifold back on. No leaks.
So whats next boss man?
I forgot to ask... What about non ethanol fuel? Is that something that would work better for testing?
Im wondering about the MFI injectors. I briefly mentioned it in my original post. I bought the spider injectors from Amazon. I must have put it in wrong because when I decided to check it for the leak it had a crack directly under the fuel inlet in the housing. So I looked up how the system worked and found out that I could pull the injectors out and put them in the old housing. And thats what I did. Its not a complicating setup really. I figured as long as the pins mated together properly it should be fine. But I havent done a pulse or nanoid test on it..
But I suppose they were working the other night when I put the fp relay in and ran it for a few minutes.
I was introduced to ether when all I was was old enough to go get it so I've always used it but for some reason, I though I read someone say not to use it on these engines. I have a couple of cans around my garage and use it on most anything. That is except for my truck that has glow plugs.
After it started, did it keep running or was it a short spurt?
After it started, did it keep running or was it a short spurt?
How does ethanol fair when trying to minimize water pollution in fuel? Thanks for the ether information. I have never used it but Im not to concerned. I wouldn't toss a cup full in a hot engine. I make sure that my propane / oxygen tanks arent leaking from any connections before I light the torch as well.
Yes sir, it ran smooth. Just like the other night when I put the fp relay back in. No knocks or sputtering. I didn't have to feather the throttle. And that was from a 5 second burst of carb cleaner.
How does ethanol fair when trying to minimize water pollution in fuel? Thanks for the ether information. I have never used it but Im not to concerned. I wouldn't toss a cup full in a hot engine. I make sure that my propane / oxygen tanks arent leaking from any connections before I light the torch as well.
How does ethanol fair when trying to minimize water pollution in fuel? Thanks for the ether information. I have never used it but Im not to concerned. I wouldn't toss a cup full in a hot engine. I make sure that my propane / oxygen tanks arent leaking from any connections before I light the torch as well.
As described in previous post, now we test the fuel system.
First we want to make sure 2-second pulse is there and there there are no leaks into the intake anywhere from the spider (causing flooding). I worry that you have pulled off injectors from one spider and put them in place on another - but we can tell for sure if there is any problem with this. If there is an internal leak, the pressure will not hold enough after the pulse ends. If the pressure does not hold above 50 for a bit, then either the spider is leaking or the check valve in the pump is bad.
So put the relay back in (DONT CRANK ENGINE OR TRY TO START) and hook up the fuel pressure gauge. Cycle the key on for 5 sec, then shut it off for 10. Repeat this and also bleed through the valve until all air is out of the system and pressure jumps up rapidly when key is first turned on. Now please do a few tests (AGAIN DONT CRANK ENGINE).
1.Max pressure while pump is working.
2.Pressure 5 sec after pump shuts off
3.Pressure 15 sec after pump shuts off
4.Pressure 30 sec after pump shuts off
5.Pressure 1 min after pump shuts off
Report please. Based on your comments I don't truly expect to find anything with this, but I also don't want to skip any steps at this point. Still please get out the fuel pressure gauge and humor me.
If pressure at 1 minute is still above 50, then go ahead and take the gasoline sample through the fuel pump pressure gauge tap by jumpering the fuel pump relay (again no cranking of engine). Do the test described above in the quote and report. If you need to know which terminals to jumper, please advise. (I always just used a pair of needle-nose pliers to jumper with).
First we want to make sure 2-second pulse is there and there there are no leaks into the intake anywhere from the spider (causing flooding). I worry that you have pulled off injectors from one spider and put them in place on another - but we can tell for sure if there is any problem with this. If there is an internal leak, the pressure will not hold enough after the pulse ends. If the pressure does not hold above 50 for a bit, then either the spider is leaking or the check valve in the pump is bad.
So put the relay back in (DONT CRANK ENGINE OR TRY TO START) and hook up the fuel pressure gauge. Cycle the key on for 5 sec, then shut it off for 10. Repeat this and also bleed through the valve until all air is out of the system and pressure jumps up rapidly when key is first turned on. Now please do a few tests (AGAIN DONT CRANK ENGINE).
1.Max pressure while pump is working.
2.Pressure 5 sec after pump shuts off
3.Pressure 15 sec after pump shuts off
4.Pressure 30 sec after pump shuts off
5.Pressure 1 min after pump shuts off
Report please. Based on your comments I don't truly expect to find anything with this, but I also don't want to skip any steps at this point. Still please get out the fuel pressure gauge and humor me.
If pressure at 1 minute is still above 50, then go ahead and take the gasoline sample through the fuel pump pressure gauge tap by jumpering the fuel pump relay (again no cranking of engine). Do the test described above in the quote and report. If you need to know which terminals to jumper, please advise. (I always just used a pair of needle-nose pliers to jumper with).
I cycled the pump 5 sec on 10 sec off a couple times with the key (did not crank engine) then bled the air using the relief button on the fuel pump until only fuel came out no bubbles.
The results were...
Pump running 65 psi
5 sec after pump stopped 50 psi
15 sec..... 50psi
30 sec.... 50psi
1min.... 50psi
I then ran the test again and it faired nearly the same at 65psi pump on and 51psi after pump stopped.
I then jumped the fp relay at the 30 and 87 terminal while holding the fuel release valve on the pressure tester open. Filled an empty, dry water bottle around 1/3 full at a noticeably different line to mark exact amount and filled another water bottle at the very same line with water. I added the fuel to the water and let it sit.
The water line has not increased.
So I'm wondering if the fuel in the plastic container might have become contaminated after that first usage. I don't remember if it rained but it did sit outside the whole time.
Where do I purchase the ether?
Im now more confused as well as excited though for the progress we have made in a few days. I did the plugs and pressure tests and never got a hiccup. I eventually wore my battery out attempting to get it to pop one time.
Ready to learn more step by step.
Thanks again Sir.
Ethanol and water are completely soluble. That means that they mix with each other with no limits. In cases where there is a small amount of water in a gas tank, it will blend with the alcohol and go through your system as long as there's not too much water. I don't know what constitutes too much water. Alcohol also saps water out of the atmosphere so if your system is not sealed, it will oversaturate with water and become a problem in the fuel tank.



