A big and long flat blade screwdriver is handy for rotating the oil pump shaft into the proper position.

I also marked the distributor with tape and a sharpie. Take pictures of the alignment of the rotor before you take it out. The rotor will rotate about 30 degrees as it drops in.

 

First you need to get it running, then you can add "cam sensor retard" (also known as CMP Retard) as a custom PID per sticky at top of the second gen forum and check it using Torque Pro. Should be zero +/- 2 degrees. But it has to be running when you check it.

You can smear some grease on the distributor gear, but no big deal if you don't. The other gear should have plenty of oil already on it.

When distributor drops in, the oil pump shaft also needs to fit into the end of the gear - so you also need to turn it slightly because of the helical gears. If it won't drop down all the way, the oil pump shaft is the reason.

 

I marked the firewall where the rotor was exactly perpendicular and when I pulled the distributor out i maeked where the cap was pointing when it came free. When I put the new distributor back in i lined the cap up with the second mark i made and it went right back in and linef up with the first maek i made perfectly.

After getting the plug wires back on and checking they were all tight and in the right order i roved the fuel pump relay and the starter relay and cranked it remotely with a little carb cleaner.

It popped out of the throttle body. So I thought it was a hiccup and buttoned down the air tube replaced the relays and cranked it from inside and it backfired twice from the throttle body.

I can't imagine having it 180 out?

 

If you got that on the first shot, I'm jealous. I believe that you still need to set the timing, I had to on my '91. You might have gotten that distributor close but I'd be surprised if you got it spot on. With the set bolt loosened, the body of the distributor should turn.

 

See above corrections in red. Are my assumptions correct?

Does it pop/backfire differently or act any differently than before? I really didn't expect it to, but now your distributor cap is securely held on. I hope you can tell that I'm not into replacing parts without a specific reason.

I'll write up some instructions for you to use that noid light to check electrical to your spider.

 

The injectors work electrically by supplying 12V to them all, at all times the key is on. Then the PCM grounds the circuit each time it wants to pulse the injector.

1. So first, disconnect the big connector going into the top of the spider. Then check all pins in the connector to ground with a digital multimeter on volts scale. Each pair of pins should have one at 12V, and the other at zero volts. (here you are checking the electrical power supply for each injector)

2. Now switch over to OHMS and measure across each of the 6 pairs of pins in the top of the spider itself. Each set of 6 pairs of pins should measure 10-16 ohms, and should be pretty much the same resistance from one pair of pins to another. (here you are checking the resistance through each injector)

3. Now with meter on OHMS measure from each of the 12 pins in the top of the spider itself to ground. None should read zero ohms (here you are checking for shorts to ground in the wiring).

4. If first three pass testing, finally insert your noid light into each pair of pins in the connector and crank the engine enough to flash the noid light a couple of times each.

Report results please

 

Yes sir, i meant rotor. Im going to loosen the nut and see if the body will move and try to crank it.

It didn't backfire straight out of the throttle body before. That is new.

 

With the factory hold down, you will not be able to turn the distributor. From what you wrote, it has to be in right (the same position where it started before). As long as you didn't turn the engine while the distributor was out, I would forget it and move on. Don't get hung up here.

You did have the rotor pointing towards the firewall both times, not away from it one time and toward it the other? Need to be sure.

 

Yes sir, then i will get my multi meter and noid light out for your next set of instructions.

 

Instructions are in post #76 - may the force be with you!!