Crank no start no spark
Thanks for the indepth advice, I'm going out to look into the advice/suggestions you gave me. I'll post an update asap. And the cause of the short was me being rough with the wiring harness moving it to make way for a transmission cooler line.
That’s why you want to carefully Inspector harness because you may have cut through the installation of multiple wires and this may not be the only problem and so it’s better to get an in-depth look now rather than be stranded on the road
George, I'm a bit puzzled, So I rewired the white black. I'm still failing step 6 I've disconnected the new wire that I ran from the icm and kept it wired and plugged into ignition coil and with the free end(the end that isn't connected to the icm but supposed to be) I was thinking becaue3 the icm has the blkwht wire right beside it in the plug that could be whats causing it but it'd clearly coming from the ignition coil end
If you unplug both connectors and measure the resistance from battery ground to the new suspended wht/blk wire, what resistance measurement do you get on 1x scale with the new wire in place?
Did you test the coil winding resistances ( primary and secondary)?
George
Did you test the coil winding resistances ( primary and secondary)?
George
I am sorry that we could not get you back on the road Sunday. If you still need to fix this truck I would be glad to help you but we need to take a different approach. Its difficult to help inexperienced owners with electrical issues remote control like this because just one small testing error and the process fails. If your going to do your own electrical testing like this then you will need a few updated things. I know that many people here are on a budget so I try to recommend cost effective tools. You will need an LED test light and a digital multimeter, here are two inexpensive options.
Down the road you may need an old school incandescent test light as well but we can skip that for now. Unless you really know what you are doing always use an LED test probe around computers like the PCM or ICM because high current can brick the computer.
George
Down the road you may need an old school incandescent test light as well but we can skip that for now. Unless you really know what you are doing always use an LED test probe around computers like the PCM or ICM because high current can brick the computer.
George
Last edited by GeorgeLG; Jun 13, 2023 at 01:03 PM.
Hey George! I went to the junk yard and pulled a complete harness. I figured replacing the harness would be the best route to take. I'll definitely let you know how it works out. I want you to know how much I greatly appreciate your dedication, help, and generosity!!!! I truly do appreciate you!!! I'll post an update once I get the new harness in
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