Hey everyone,

I know my issue has been discussed, but I’m kinda working in the dark here because I can’t seem to get any scanner to sync with my car. Even and OBD1 with the 2 adapter.

Anyway, I have the rough idle, missing, and SES light (that has started flashing occasionally). So I’m guessing I’m going to get a misfire code if I can ever get it to scan. While it’s idling, I hear an occasional clicking sound from the back of the engine near the distributor. I pulled the cap and found that the rotor to wiggle more than I would expect. Does this seem excessive? When I lift on it, I can also get a bit of side-to-side play.

 

So I ordered a new distributor, but the rotor doesn’t align quite like the previous one. I thought maybe the crank had moved over the last couple days. Appeared to still be located correctly. So I put the old distributor back in and it lined up perfectly. Help the ignorant guy please. Is this too far off? Do I need to order a different distributor? Thanks everyone

New distributor

Old distributor

 

Just thought I would bump this again and see if anyone had any advice on the pictures above?

Thanks

 

I'm really not the best person to walk you through this, maybe someone else will help. But here's what I'm seeing.

You removed the distributor, and when you dropped it back in the distributor did not land in the same position as when it was removed. It is "off by a tooth" or more. I can tell by looking at the way the ear for the mounting screw is pointing towards the firewall.

The distributor needs to rotate a few degrees (maybe a half-inch?) clockwise. Remove the distributor, hold the gear steady, rotate the head just a bit clockwise, and drop it back in. If the distributor does not seat fully, this means that the "tang" is not dropping into the oil pump gear properly. If so, pull the distributor, move it a fraction of an inch, and try again.

This can be frustrating if you've never done it before. Just be patient. Maybe even look down the hole with a flashlight so you can see the slot and look at the bottom of the distributor.

If you did not turn the engine with a key or by hand while the distributor was out, the crankshaft did not move.

 

Thanks for replying Stovey! When I drop the old distributor back in, the rotor lines up perfectly. But the new one is off slightly. I’ve tried rotating it a tooth, but then it is way off. The difference seems to be caused by the indexing fork, for the lack of the technical name. Also, that fork gets caught on a raised park of the block and would need a touch of grinding to get it to fit correctly. All this would make me think I have the wrong distributor, but there are two styles that come up for this year engine and I’ve already tried the other and it’s significantly different. This W engine seems to be a bit unique. I have a third on order. Maybe it will be better.

 

So the third distributor was the same as the previous. Same part exactly, just rebranded. The picture shows the "indexing fork" I was referring to. I suppose I have two thoughts at this point: 1) Grind a bit off the fork so that it doesn't get caught on the casting of the block and then see how it runs with distributor being off the amount shown in the pictures above. Or 2) Remove the fork altogether and clamp it down without it.

The second picture shows the distributor seat with the pin that the indexing fork captures and the raised area that is interfering with the fork.
Any thoughts on eliminating the fork and just clamping the distributor down in the right position?

 

Update - I worked my way through the rotor alignment issue. I replaced the distributor and it seemed to solve the previous issues. SES light was gone, engine idled nicely, and the clicking sound was gone. This evening, after +/- 6 key cycles, the SES light is back on and the clicking sound is back. The clicking or ticking sounds like it is coming from around the distributor. The sound comes and goes in bursts, but when the sound is occurring, the idle gets quite rough. Any suggestions on what I should check? It’s fascinating that the sound was gone initially after replacing the distributor, but is now back.

 

The "fork" is designed to not allow you to change the timing --- I bet your 4.2 is a California vehicle --- mebbee?

Here's the trick ... and I went through this same problem myself.

First --- the OE distributor is basically plastic --- good plastic, but still plastic.

The distributor gear will likely show some heavy wear - but if you have a CalEPA vehicle, the timing is retarded - sometimes up to 30° ATDC. The computer can make up for most of it by electronically advancing some of the lost timing, but it isn't enough.

I had a 2000 Astro with the 4.3 CalEPA and it never got more that 16 MPG.

I had had a 1995 G10 with the same engine, same transmission, gear ratios and it was a big box going down the highway and got 22+ MPH. Big difference!

I figgered the Astro --- sleeker and much more aerodynamic - would get better mileage --- nope!

I ran a deep scan on the timing and found it waws very retarded - so I just ground the hold down clamp (the "fork" to you) so I could set the timing where I wanted it.

Running a "crank relearn" didn't help.

I got it to 4°BTDC and the computer, when running did its thing and varied the timing to suit the conditions --- but the MPG jumped to 14 MPH - instantly!

Grind the clamp so you can turn the distributor and pull the timing to 4-6° BTDC --- and maybe I'm forgetting something here (I'm old) but I think you need to disconnect a timing wire to set the crank relearn --- maybe not.


The distributor does NOT have to sit as it did as long as you can set the base timing! Drop in the new distributor, lightly tighten the clamp so you can turn the distributor body with moderate ease and watch the base timing on your scanner.

Run the Crank Relearn Procedure again and see what you get. It should be very close to 18-20° BTDC when it's idling.

Once you get to where I told you, snug the clamp a bit tighter --- you're not building a bridge here -- don't go all Armstrong on it --- it's just a distributor hold down bolt!

You really need a scanner of your own so that can access these settings to make it work. You CANNOT use a timing light!

 

BTW --- the slop you feel in the rotor is from worn teeth on the distributor-side of the cam/disributor gearset. I have seen distributors for the 4.3s with advance weights under the cap - and some with none.

........................ OR NOT --- continue reading ......................

If you have advance weights, you cannot find fault in the fact that you can turn the rotor by hand --- it's built in.

There is this to consider --- IF you have the distributor with the advance weights under the rotor, that you can get some twist out of it, usually means the shaft isn't rusted or corroded so it won't be able to advance and return to retard.

If you get to keep the old distrbutor --- take it apart and get an educaation.

I'll be here for a while and maybe I can find the old YT video I made about this - for you.

Don't bet the farm I can find it - but I will look.

In the meantime -- I will try to talk you through this problem, on the internet.


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