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Engine rebuild

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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Default Engine rebuild

I'm thinking about rebuilding my 1999 blazer's 4.3L v6 engine. I've posted something recently "Intake Manifold" and I'm going to try finding the clog but just incase I can't, I was going to rebuild the eninge. I figured since I'll have to tear the entire thing down, I'll fix the problem then. So how difficult is it to pull that puppy out and rebuild it? I am a good mechanic but I've never done this before. So I just want some input from people who have done it before.

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SCrane
 
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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I recently acquired a 2 door 4WD 96 Blazer which needed an engine rebuild and all I can tell you is that you will not have fun, there will be much swearing involved, and you will wish you never attempted anything so idiotic; other than that it's not too bad!

If your vehicle is at it's stock height, one of the most frustrating things you will run into is getting the transmission to engine bolts out. There is absolutely no room to get any kind of tool onto the middle transmission bolt on the driver's side. Originally I had to remove the transmission crossmember and drop the trans all the way to get access to the bolt. I later (and this will sound crazy) cut a hole in the floor just to the right of the gas pedal. This way, if I need to remove the transmission later, I have easy access. I covered the hole with a piece of silicone sealed sheetmetal and some self tapping sheetmetal screws. No one will ever know it's there. If you have a 2WD Blazer, it is probably easier to remove the transmission with the engine.

I left mine in place, but if you take the time to remove the exhaust Y-pipe from the catalytic converter, you will have better access. I removed the two O2 sensors on the Y pipe to avoid breaking them and also removed the front driveshaft from the front axle.

As far as some other tips: the battery tray makes the perfect place for the ac compressor; you can keep the lines attached just be careful not to kink them . The alternator can stay attached to it's cast mounting bracket; the whole thing can come out together. If you don't have a puller to remove the power steering pump pulley, you can leave the pump attached to it's cast mounting bracket as well.
Most of all, good luck!
 

Last edited by Mike7075; Mar 10, 2011 at 11:36 AM.
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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To make it easier, I advise removing the driver side fender and possibly the wheel well. Just be cautious of the ABS module and the electrical there. A ratcheting wrench can help with removing the trans bolts. And if you need more room remove everything from the engine, lift it just a tad and take out the motor mounts, then lower the engine as far as you can get it. Have extra eyes so you can watch all points at once, or lower it just a little and check it to make sure your not binding on anything and damage something. And watch the master cylinder.
 
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