Okay I am new to this site so I hope I do this right. BARE WITH ME GUYS lol.

2001 Chevy Traiblazer (Original Blazer Body)
4.6L V6 Vortec engine
Mileage: 132,376
Owned for 3 years now.

About a month ago my truck started to show an ignition problem. When I crank it up, it would sound like it haden't cranked up at all. The engine would be super quiet. As soon as I put my truck into drive the rpm hand would drop and the battery voltage display on the dash would drop as well. It was like it wanted to stall but it didn't. I decided to make it home as fast as I could before something bad happened. As soon as I hit a redlight, my truck died as it idled. It took me around 10 trys to get it to crank back up. Everytime I tried it would crank then slowly die in around 2 secs. I could give it gas and keep it running as longs as my foot was down, but as soon as I took it off the rpm would drop and my truck would die.

AND NO THE ENGINE LIGHT IS NOT ON

I decided to take it to Jim Keras Chevrolet Dealership here in Memphis because I just KNEW that had the experience and knowledge to fix this issue. They ended up telling me that I needed a tune-up and fuel system cleaning for $700!! Which sounded very outrageous to me. They said some plugs weren't firing and I had good pressure in my fuel pump (Which I replaced myself about a year ago). But I ended up paying the $300 to clean the system and I was going to do the tuneup myself. I did'nt think it would be the plugs becuase it would actually run good on several occasions.BUT I wanted to make sure...so I spent around $150 on the tuneup parts..Duralast spark wire, Distributor cap and ignition rotor...and Bosch platinum plugs....(Money was low and couldn't afford the AC DELCO replacements)...Changed it myself and thought the problem was fixed....wrong. Ran good for about 2 days now problem but the same issue persists. But whats is weird is that it if I dont crank it for a day or so I will get a good start for that day . The next day It'll have a bad start and it'll take so many tries to crank it back up. Same idleing problems. Bad start. I'm kind of a scared to what problems I face and how much money I will have to throw away until its back running normal.

Guys If you have any type of tips that could help me or any knowledge about this problem please share. I'm sure Im leaving something out so ask me if you need further information.

No aftermarket parts added under the hood besides a replaced radiator and replace fuel pump.

(P.S I installed a sound system last October myself and It dims my lights at high volume. Autozone saids I have a bad battery and cannot test my alternator because of that. I started it up and removed the positive terminal from the battery and it continued to run. SO I x'd that out)

SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP ME

 

im getting that same issue on my 2002 blazer ls. im ordering new ignition parts (ignition control module, ignition coin, pickup coil, distributor cap , rotor) to see if its a problem with power. My fuel pump, battery and alternator is new. it died on me twice so i want to correc t this issue as soon as possible. i will let you know if these parts change anything after i install them. i have changed the cat a short while ago and my fluids are always clean and new. they should be here in a week or so. So gimme a few and i will hope to have good news.

 

If your battery voltage is dropping and your getting a weak spark then something is possible wrong in the electrical system. How old is your battery? connections good? possibly a bad alternator?, it seems there could be several things going at once. To my knowledge I don't know of any sensor that would cause those problems if it was going bad.

 

still gettn a bit of rumbel at idel but my startup is strong after changing the parts. cleaned the terminals and put another alternator in. not my voltage is holding. i put a spectre intake in and cant wait to take it on the highway. maybe there could be a cracked hose causeing a small vac leak. ill check it tomorrow.

 

If your sound system is using amplifier(s) and your lights dim it indicates the system is drawing more current than your alternator can deliver efficiently. A crucial oversight in such a situation is proper gain adjustment on amplifiers. there is no performance increase from a gain setting that is too high. It starves the amplifier for power, causing it to run hot along with every active circuit in the vehicle. As for the audio, heat causes distortion in the signal. distortion hampers sound quality at all frequencies and can roast an amp quite rapidly. As I am sure you know there's a lot going on in your vehicle's electrical system with engine management and pollution controls. These modules will share the same burdeon, producing excessive heat, accelerating wear. Not really a good thing right?

Here is the proper way to adjust the amplifier gain. I am confident this method is supported by your equiipment OEM and would not be surprised if you found the same or very similar instruction given in your equipment user manual.

1. Disconnect all the speaker output wires from their screw terminals

2. start the vehicle, power up the head unit and turn the volume up to it's maximum

3. Setup a dc voltage meter and place the test leads on the amplifier's speaker out terminals observing correct polarity.

4. adjust the gain control until the voltage meter indicates 14.4 volts DC (or less)

5. Repeat this for each channel.

This will result in clean power delivered to the amplifier at any volume level and eliminate overlaod as a source of distortion in the signal path (although there may be others). you'll have tighter, more accurate bass response and crisper high notes. and your amp will run cooler as a result.

Once that is done, then go about the task of adjusting any crossover controls or boost levels at various frequency ranges etc. Hope this is useful and helps someone avoid any undue hardships. :icon _speaker1: