Hope someone can help me with this one. I have a 97 blazer 4x4, no reverse and second gear. When I take off and get up to 20mph, I simply let off the gas for a second and she shifts. Runs great at all speeds until I get to about 20 mph and then have to repeat the same. Any thoughts? Also, any instructions on how to replace my heater core, passenger floor board is swimming in coolant.
Thanks!

 

Can't help you on the tranny except to suggest a rebuild. Just had my 2001 done for the amazing low price of 2100.00. I got it back last Thursday, and the heater core started leaking this week. So, this weekend I'm replacing it. I have the Haynes, but hear it's not great. I'll let you know what I run into... but I haven't searched the forum yet.

 

You have lost your sun gear in the tranny... a very common problem for the 4L60E in our Blazers. R&R it yourself and have the shell replaced for a few hundred bucks tops. I doubt you need to rebuild the entire tranny. If anyone tries to tell you about their "amazing low price" of $2000 walk... no, run away.

 

Just to comment, if the sun shell blows, it can take out other parts as well. In my case, I lost the sprag as well. If you do decide to take it out yourself and want a warranty, make sure your repair shop will warranty it if you do the installation, and make sure they strap the valve body.

In my case, they charged me a grand for the labor, including removal and reinstallation, and another grand for all heavy duty replacement parts, including a new converter. "Amazing low price" is my cynicism, not the transmission shop statement.

Above all, look at every option, and given the explosive nature of our transmissions, replace with heavy duty parts, and get a warranty if possible. Mine is three years, unlimited mileage. Paying out that kind of coin for an 8 year old car was tough, but this extensive warranty gave me the peace of mind to actually keep it. I found a shop that would do a one year warranty if I did the installation, and it would be anywhere from 700 - 1300 depending on what the sun shell took out, which was something like 400 plus parts. I might have gone for it if they could have matched the warranty, but I really don't have the time lately. Of course, I'm literally at this moment halfway through a heater core replacement, with the entire dash at present sitting on the ground next the the Blazer.

I do have to say this: the shop I took the tranny to told me I had a GM SUV when I told him the problem I had, not what vehicle it was in. He knows the issue, but when I rolled the thing to his shop, he said it probably wasn't the sun shell because he had never heard a Blazer make that noise before. So, at least in my case, it appears it was quite a mess in there. Also, mine completely quit moving. My wife was accelerating up an onramp onto the highway when she heard the crash, then the Blazer slow to a stop. The engine was running, and the noise coming from the transmission was horrifying. It was only a mile from my house, but I had no movement at all. Had to roll it back down the onramp and get it towed home.

Also, regarding the heater core, I have a 2001, so it appears my job will be a little different than yours. According to Haynes, instructions are through 97, or 98+. I had readied myself for a horrible job from what I've read, but at this point, it's mainly just been time consuming, and certainly formidable. My suggestion, which WILL apply to yours, is tag everything. I bought some stickers you use to label files. Couple of dollars at Walmart, and it's been awesome having them. I also take a picture after removing a component, so that when I go to reinstall that component, I can be sure the wires are coming out of the correct holes and pockets.

If you haven't researched it, here are the facts:

The entire dash has to come out. Since there is a main wiring harness for the dash behind the glove box, most electrical components don't have to be removed. In my case, I removed the speedo cluster (4 bolts) the radio (2 bolts) and the climate control module (2 bolts) since they were easy enough and I wanted them out of the way when I was getting the dash out. If you have a hand and are certain everthing else is disconnected, you may not need to.

It's going to take a while. I've read some folks who know what they are doing can do it 5 hours. At this point, I think that must be just removal, but maybe they're just that amazing. Others, experienced in mechanics but not necessarily in this particular job, have taken up to 17. I have 6 hours into it yesterday. I did the entire job in my BMW in 6 hours, and I've been rebuilding cars since the 80s. However, it wasn't as bad as I expected. Just lots and lots of bolts.

Two wierd design features that will blow your mind. I think this applies to all of them: there are three nearly inaccessible bolts from the engine compartment. (1) The lower mount: The way you're supposed to do it is take the inner fender well out to access two bolts on the firewall. However, most folks seem to just cut the mounting tabs on the inside of the car and leave the bolts in place, since there is a third bolt, in between those two, that is easily accessed from the inside. I'm at that point. I pulled off the fender well but have too much to remove to get to the other side, so I'm just cutting the tabs. (2) You have to cut into the heater box to get access to a bolt that is literally inside it. In my model, it's just an access panel underneath the rubberized heater box top. In others, probably yours, it's the blower resistor that you have to cut out. You reinstall it with weatherstripping adhesive. At any rate, the manual makes it sound straightforward, but it took me forever to get it out. You're supposed to use a ratchet, but the hole is so small, mine only sometimes got one click when I tried to turn. After it started coming out, it wouldn't click at all because it just moved the bolt. I ended up getting my hand barely into the hole and turning it out by hand with a socket.

I know there are some good threads on here, make sure you search for them!

 

I didn't catch on to that... I thought you really were bragging about a low price... lol.

 

I've been working on this on my '96 off and on for the past couple of days. What a freaking nightmare. The only repair I've done that's worse than this was the fuel pump.

I will say this: at least for 96s, you MUST drop the steering column completely, because it holds the dash in place even after all the other bolts are removed.

UPDATE

Just now, I got so fed up that I just drove the damn thing across the street to my buddy's shop. I got the dash totally ripped out, but at this point I'd rather pay somebody else to finish the job.

Much respect to those of you that stuck it out.

 

quick question other than the pool in the floor board, would a gurgling sound coming from somewhere behind the dash suggest heater core or just air in the system? coolant level is good level and color it just gurgles, oh and the temp guage won't go above 1/4 i was thinking thermostat for that one....

 

Gurgling is signs of a restricted core. If a good flush job (inc. reverse flush and use of vinegar) on the core doesn't fix it, you may have to either live with it or replace the core.