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I will do my best to help you and work with your situation. I understand cancer all too well.
Lets slow down then and get our bearings. Are we trying to fix this truck or just trying to figure out what's wrong with it so someone else can fix it? Did these problems start after a repair, or any other event?
What is the software that you are currently using to show us this data? Do you have an Android device (phone or tablet)?
Do you have and know how to use a digital multimeter? Do you have a test light?
Here is what I can tell you for now. Your O2 sensor codes are for the heater circuits in the sensors which warm them up faster to get to lower emissions and better fuel economy faster. They also make sure that the sensors dont cool off too much and drop out under certain operating conditions. Most of the time the truck runs OK even with this fault. Anytime you get a sensor code it may be the sensor or it may be the rest of the circuit (connectors, wiring, power, ground, engine computer). You determine that with testing which we can do. This prevents the parts cannon and unnecessary replacements.
The cylinder 5 misfire can be many things and again we determine that with testing. I asked about the ability to read CMP retard because that parameter must be adjusted to within spec or the misfire cylinder that is identified may be wrong. I'll know more when you tell me about this code reader. If there is a misfire and if its only on one cylinder it can be a few things:
Once we get CMP retard within spec and confirm cylinder 5 an inexpensive thing to do is swap ignition wires and see if it follows, inspect the distr cap, look at the plug and mist the engine with water in the dark at idle and look for arcing.
I'll stick with you as long as you want my help and I'll look for ways to do this on the cheap. Besides understanding cancer I was also a broke *** college student once with a money pit first car (ask me how I learned all this stuff). I traveled with all of my tools and meters in the trunk. lol
George
First and foremost.thank you for the chuckle. It was well needed. OK so I'm going to go down the line to answer all your questions. Yes we're wanting to fix this truck. My husband will be the labor, essentially bringing your suggestions to fruition.
regarding when this started, the most I can say is that I've had issues with a misfire of some sort any sort a few months after getting it so let's just say 8 months. It started out with P0300 random misfire and then later it started narrowing down to a certain cylinder mainly cylinder for and now cylinder 5. In July I had an issue with crank but no start and come to find out it was my Spider injector. I had that replaced and installed and a couple weeks ago I had another issue with a crank but no start scenario. My instructor at my school suggested I bring my truck in and then after all the Diagnostics were done it was concluded my Spider injector was at fault. Got the part had it replaced and installed and at startup the truck was sounding better than I've ever heard it. Drove it out of school went to the car wash among other stops and on the way home about a thousand feet away from my driveway is when I received the cylinder five code and the truck did a 360 as far as performance and and that is what has led me here. Yes I have a digital multimeter and yes I know how to use it and also a test light. As far as my OBD scanner I have Autophix 3210
FYI I'm in school for diesel technology so I do understand a little about mechanics.
We have many members here that can do extensive ODB2 diagnostics using a blue tooth dongle but most of us use the BAFX version from Amazon and low cost software like car diagnostic pro or torque. Is this the scanning software that came with the autophix 3210 dongle? Do you know if it can read CMP retard? If not, are you using an iPhone or android-based device? CMP retard is the relationship between the cam sensor and the crank sensor and needs to be within spec for the misfire counter to be accurate. If it is sufficiently out of spec it can also make the truck run crappy because the rotors out of position with respect to the distributor post when the ignition spark fires for any given cylinder and you can get cross talk and week ignition. It’s a common issue with these trucks as the distributor gear and or the timing chain start to wear with age. It’s one of the first things we usually do particularly if there’s a misfire problem otherwise you wind up chasing ghosts because the misfire counter is not accurate. You said you’ve replaced a lot of parts. If you did plugs did any of them look unusual? Were there any carbon traces under the distributor cap if you replace that recently? Have you done a recent compression test and if so where any of the cylinders out of whack? George
We have many members here that can do extensive ODB2 diagnostics using a blue tooth dongle but most of us use the BAFX version from Amazon and low cost software like car diagnostic pro or torque. Is this the scanning software that came with the autophix 3210 dongle? Do you know if it can read CMP retard? If not, are you using an iPhone or android-based device? CMP retard is the relationship between the cam sensor and the crank sensor and needs to be within spec for the misfire counter to be accurate. If it is sufficiently out of spec it can also make the truck run crappy because the rotors out of position with respect to the distributor post when the ignition spark fires for any given cylinder and you can get cross talk and week ignition. It’s a common issue with these trucks as the distributor gear and or the timing chain start to wear with age. It’s one of the first things we usually do particularly if there’s a misfire problem otherwise you wind up chasing ghosts because the misfire counter is not accurate. You said you’ve replaced a lot of parts. If you did plugs did any of them look unusual? Were there any carbon traces under the distributor cap if you replace that recently? Have you done a recent compression test and if so where any of the cylinders out of whack? George
So the plugs were pulled and have been changed recently and within two weeks times the plug on or near well I'm going to have to find out, but am sure it was either plug 1,3. Or 5 had a couple hot spots on it. And I am using an android device..also here are screen shots of the 3 readings you had asked for. Eng cold, key on.engine warm, idle and rpm 2500...well two of three both the engine warm ones. This obd doesn't read cmp retard that I can gather..
One thing I do recall is that about a month ago when we changed the plugs I was getting codes for bank 1 and 2;running lean, but when we pulled the plugs my husband said they were doused in gas...fyi
A bunch of those values are blanked out, can you repost?
You have an interesting problem that’s not global (common to all cylinders) because your fuel trims are out of bounds but the opposite polarity by bank). There are a couple of possibilities for this:
O2 sensors
Injector spider
exhaust leak
Asymetric intake manifold air leak
As always, connectors/wiring/computer
Interestingly you only have misfires on one cylinder which means one bank only as well. An Android device can use all of the good inexpensive (I know that’s relative especially with BACS syndrome) scanning software but we usually use the Amazon BAFX dongle here. You can download the free version of one of them to see if your existing BT dongle will work. Without making sure that CMP retard is within spec we can’t be sure that it’s cylinder 5. BTW if that parameter is way out of spec it can cause all kinds of problems. Then you can also graph the O2 sensors to make sure that they are switching correctly.
We use car gauge pro/car diagnostic pro (newer android OS) and Torque primarily here. I think Torque lite is free to test your BT connector.
Been thinking about how to help you given that you are on a tight budget. Since both banks are running so different you can swap O2 sensors to see if the trims follow. Other things that are free:
look for exhaust and unmetered air leaks
mist the ignition in the dark with water and look for arcing
swap ignition wires with #5 and see if the problem follows
inspect under the distr cap for carbon traces/arcing
Compare the plugs between the banks
spraying around the intake gasket and other air leak areas and watch rpm. Propane, starting fluid, water
compression test
Swearing at #5 to see if it straightens up
Yes swearing at cul #5 of course. OK. So I just came in from school. Its been a long day, but before I turn in I will transfer all that you have suggested I look at onto paper so that way I can get out there tomorrow and put this into action so I just want to let you know again I appreciate you taking your time out time is very valuable and I so appreciate this very much and I'll be looking into the truck tomorrow and I will let you
Been thinking about how to help you given that you are on a tight budget. Since both banks are running so different you can swap O2 sensors to see if the trims follow. Other things that are free:
look for exhaust and unmetered air leaks
mist the ignition in the dark with water and look for arcing
swap ignition wires with #5 and see if the problem follows
inspect under the distr cap for carbon traces/arcing
Compare the plugs between the banks
spraying around the intake gasket and other air leak areas and watch rpm. Propane, starting fluid, water
compression test
Swearing at #5 to see if it straightens up
George
so a compression test was done and there's low compression in cyl 5. I think its number was like 70 or 80. The rest had numbers in 110. So I know that doesn't sound good. But there's the results of compression test
There’s your #5 misfire. That said, all of those numbers are low. We expect to see more like 160. Might have been the technique. Should be engine slightly warm, all plugs out, throttle plate open but I don’t think that accounts for a 50 psi difference even if non of those things were done.
Now, some engines can still run pretty good with some wonky compression numbers especially if your in a “good enough is good enough” kinda place. You still have some wild fuel trim numbers that may or may not be explained by the cylinder problem especially if more than the #5 plug was wet. If you repost those blocked out readings I can comment more.
There’s your #5 misfire. That said, all of those numbers are low. We expect to see more like 160. Might have been the technique. Should be engine slightly warm, all plugs out, throttle plate open but I don’t think that accounts for a 50 psi difference even if non of those things were done.
Now, some engines can still run pretty good with some wonky compression numbers especially if your in a “good enough is good enough” kinda place. You still have some wild fuel trim numbers that may or may not be explained by the cylinder problem especially if more than the #5 plug was wet. If you repost those blocked out readings I can comment more.
George
ok. I will repost the reading when i get home. My class is almost over.
There’s your #5 misfire. That said, all of those numbers are low. We expect to see more like 160. Might have been the technique. Should be engine slightly warm, all plugs out, throttle plate open but I don’t think that accounts for a 50 psi difference even if non of those things were done.
Now, some engines can still run pretty good with some wonky compression numbers especially if your in a “good enough is good enough” kinda place. You still have some wild fuel trim numbers that may or may not be explained by the cylinder problem especially if more than the #5 plug was wet. If you repost those blocked out readings I can comment more.
10-25-2022, 01:03 AM
