I plan to try lifting the engine high enough to allow the fitting to clear. If not I'll have to remove the motor mount. Super design from G.M.

 

If you need replacement clips for the radiator quick-connects, Dorman (Help! brand) has them as part number: 800-801

 

Is this how you replace the leaky lines? Mines leaking but no extremely bad...drips when not running...

Ive looked but dont think I can get into the small space to remove that one bolt for the lines.

 

Just did the cooler lines. The lines to the radiator are easy. Just remove the air filter box and lower skirt. The ugly are the lines that go to the motor. I also replaced the oring seal and gasket in the adapter housing. Bought all the parts online from GM for $150. Anyway you definitely wanna disconnect the motor mount and jack the motor up to get that line out. Removing the single long bolt going front to rear on the mount makes a world of difference. Just watch your fan shroud clearance when lifting the motor. I did jack it up under the pan with a piece of 2x4 between the jack. GM recommends jacking against a lug on the side of the block just below the exhaust manifold but it is not easy to access for jacking. The gasket inside that filter adapter was hard as a rock and stuck to the block side. Very challenging to clean. I attached a picture of a wheel that can be used for removing gaskets - no abrasives. Ended up using Permatex High tack spray to attach the new gasket to the housing before install. Next time if there is a next time it will come out with the housing.

 

I did this job on my son's 98 Blazer (4WD, 4DR) back in May of '09. I was able to get enough clearance by using the block of wood and jack on the oil pan method. I was wondering if it would be worth it to have the motor mounts replaced because I used the standard Dorman lines for replacements, (part #'s 625-001 and 625-100), and now, 3 1/2 years later, they are leaking again. This time around I plan on modifying the lines like I read on a thread here about this job. Also, does anybody have any advice on accessing the engine block adapter in order to change out that gasket? The service manual covers it but doesn't say what, if anything, has to be removed. I envy the guy who has the friend with the shop & lift. Seems like life would be much easier.
Here is an address to a discussion of the cooler line modification with decent pics. (Different vehicle but same idea)
http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/to...r-line-repair/

 

I did the adapter when I did the hoses. There is a gasket and an oring. The parts are cheap from GM. The gasket was hard as a rock and stuck to the motor side - hard to clean. The adapter has 2 bolts holding it to the block. Used high tack spray to hold the gasket to adapter during install.

 

Here is another link to a way less expensive mod to the oil cooler lines. I was wondering if anybody on this forum had an opinion on using the screw type hose clamps. It doesn't look as nice but I think this guy's last post indicated that so far he has about 20 or 25,000 miles with no leaks. Repair your leaky oil cooler lines!! - S-SeriesForum.com
I already purchased new lines and this mod would be nice and easy. Any opinions?

 

I fixed my lines this way, but haven't run the engine much since I am doing other work to the Blazer. I didn't have the clearance to get a die grinder in to cut the old hoses off, so I used an old leather glove and a hack saw blade. It took a little longer, but I was also able to ensure that I didn't cut too far. It was pretty easy and only took about half an hour doing it in a parking lot.

 

I've done basically the same thing on several vehicles. Cut all 4 crimps off leaving the barbs exposed. I used a 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic hose adapter. 2 pieces of 1/2" hydraulic line about 10" long each. Then had the local NAPA store crimp the hose to the adapter. Slide the adapters over the barbs and tighten 'em up. Oil pressure runs 80psi max, those hoses are good to 3,000psi, should be plenty My own vehicle has gone 40K miles and 4 years without a leak, bone dry. All for about $60. OEM lines have a 1 year warranty, Dorman lines have a lifetime warranty, that's all fine and good, but I don't want to do the job again, even if the parts are free!

 

I ended up purchasing the Dorman lines new and then cutting off their hoses and using the transmission cooler line with heavy duty screw-type clamps. Cost me about $18.00 for the hose & clamps and about $70.00 for the lines. I'll be installing them when we get some nicer weather (upstate New York - not good for shadetree mechanics in the winter). I'm not sure how long my son's gonna own this thing but I will let this forum know how it holds up if he has it long enough.