Oil cooling lines
 

Should i get original engine to filter oil cooler lines from the dealership or from the parts store? reason im asking i just replaced the current ones that i got from rockauto when i rebuilt my engine 1 month ago and the line is already leaking from where they crimped the metal to the rubber hose.

Man them lines seem like pure trouble

yes just trying to see which ones will last longer because the one i got only lasted a month and started to leak

There are a few threads around that tell you how to fix the existing oil lines. That is your best bet, and it can be done while everything is still attached to the truck.

Just delete the oil adapter and cooler lines all together and put the filter on the block, eliminate all the leaking, no matter what, they will end up leaking again unless you go to a hydraulic hose shop and get some hydraulic hoses made.

Now How does this work? I like this idea. There are threads for a filter at the block? Still have to get oil to the cooler no?

Im not asking how to fix it i already know how to fix it im asking if any one had better luck with with the dealership part then the local parts store that sells dorman brand

The factory ones have lasted over 120000 on mine before they started leaking.. Anymore questions....

This would delete the cooler and the remote filter all together, the cooler really does not make much of a difference anyways, its basically just an extra set of lines that are prone to leak...

All ya need to do is remove the remote adapter, the adapter on the block, clean up the gasket on the block, then install this part onto the block using a allen wrench and some blue thread lock on the threads gm # 14081300

and then get this oil filter WIX 51040 which will stay clear of the front shaft ect. and you are good to go. I am doing this to my first gen. I already have the gm # 14081300 for it, I just need to find time to do it.

How is this going to work with a 4x4? There's no way for an oil filter to fit between the front differential and block. It's already darn near impossible to wiggle out the adapter block, and it is substantially smaller than an oil filter.

Look at my previous post, I just gave all the part numbers to do this properly, and without a problem of space. :icon_wink: There have been many blazer and typhoon owners that have done this conversion without a problem of space.
The oil filter number I have given is a bit shorter to not come in contact with the front shaft/differential. Once its all done, getting to the filter really is not a problem.

The hardest part will be getting the old oil lines out, and the oil filter adapter on the block out, but with patience, it all can be done without unbolting anything or removing anything involving the drive line.
swivel sockets, and extensions to get the adapter off, and then wiggling and twisting to get it out of there, as for the lines, some kind of saw to cut the lines into pieces.
not that it matters, they are leaking anyways. so cutting them is not a problem.


As for the holes that will be left in the radiator where the oil cooler lines used to go... not a problem there either. Just leave them, the top one will be hidden by the upper rad hose, the bottom one will also be hidden out of site.

In the end, you will be left with a cleaner engine bay, no leaking lines, and an oil filter where it should be, with no problems down the road, win win win win.

U could leave the front shaft out also as a option

Yeah, I saw you posted the filter number, it just seems like it would still be super tough to get at every 3,000 miles. To me, seems like much less work to fix the lines properly and be able to more easily access the filter.

Of course, with 250k+ miles, I'm sure my motor mounts have sagged somewhat, decreasing the clearance.

One thing is for certain: mount the filter on the block, and you'll never have another leaking line again! :p

Its really not hard to get the filter out from what I have read. Just use the strap style filter wrench and you are good to go, and if you are worried about it, use full synthetic oil, and change it every 6000 miles :P

If you do oil analsis its mot uncommon to gO 10,000 miles between oil changes

Thats with full syentheric rotella t6 and a good wix oil filter

It's still awkward to get to the filter with everything out of the way (SAS), because of the way the oil pan wraps around it. We used to repair a lot of the factory oil lines for the local GM dealer, but not so many anymore.

I dont know, from what I have been reading from a lot of other blazer owners, its not that hard, its a lot harder to replace the lines. and to have to do that every 2 years. People have yet to find a good set of "oem" filter hoses that wont leak in 2 years. the only ones that still have the lines that do not leak after replacing are the ones that got hydraulic hose made for them.

i used tranny hose and plain ol adjustable clamps on the oem fittings...never a problem after that...been several years.

Same here. Some 300 psi 1/2" rubber line from the auto parts store and hose clamps on the stock fittings. Fuel injection clamps would have been a better choice, but we'll see how these hold up. Only a few thousand miles on them, so far, but no leaks yet.

Heck its getta take less then 50 psi usually shouldnt take much

Does removing the lines all together and putting the oil filter on the block in anyway hurt oil pressure?

Jaystoy, my oil pressure went up substantially when I moved the filter to the block. I was at 40-50psi cold and 20-30 psi when hot with the remote filter and oil cooler, but now it's 60-70 psi when cold, 40-50 when it's warmed up.

That does it. I just ordered the little adapter from GMPartsdirect.com. 7 bucks. What else do I need?

Why not use the threaded adapter from the remote filter mount? It just unscrews with an allen wrench and it's the same part. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V6-instru...er-removal.pdf

EDIT: When the adapter is removed from the engine, it might not be a bad idea to replace the bypass valve.

The adapter in my remote filter was not removable.

No other parts. If you bought the right adapter, it even uses the stock filter.

I will take the plunge. I am on my 2nd set of cooler lines and my 3rd set of filter to block lines. Lines are not leaking this time (well one of the cooler lies is starting to show wetness at the crimp) but t is now leaking I believe at the gasket between the oil line and the block adapter. such a pain in the ass and I am tired of sticking cardboard under the truck. I read this in a previous post, but deleting out the cooler will not adversely affect oil temp?

Deleting the oil cooler will increase oil temperature. Synthetic oil has a higher breakdown temperature, that's why it's recommended after deleting the cooler. There are two bypass valves in the remote filter mount, and one in the block at the oil filter adapter. Deleting the remote mount, (and the two valves) will cause a slight drop in oil pressure, and a slight increase in oil volume.

Yup, nothing that is harmful. I cant wait to get mine done. I already run synthetic. :icon_pimp:

So I got my lazy ass under the Blazer tonight, pulled the skid plate. It now appear that the oil lines are not the problem. Looks like the power steering pump is leaking underneath. everything is so wet and oily, looks like the oil steering fluid is leaking directly on top of the oil line and because of the slight slope it is running down to the block adapter, then down to the ground. Good news I guess, but the power steering pump looks like a bithc to get to and replace. 94 s10. Anyone have any experiance or suggestions for this job?

I'm just in the process of moving the filter to the block on a 1996 Blazer, and getting the filter up to the block is a definite problem on this vehicle. I scratched my head about it until I decided to cut/file the tab off on the rear of the front differential. Once that was done, the filter fits up there no problem. BTW, the fitting required to thread into the block to attach the filter to needs to be purchased separately (in my application, anyway), since on my vehicle the fitting in the remote filter mount doesn't come out, like some do.