Repair or replace my engine?
#1
Repair or replace my engine?
Hey Guys
1998 2 Dr Blazer, 4X4, 4.3L Vortek (Vin "W")(218,000 miles), Stick NVG3500 transmission with internal hydraulic slave clutch, NV233 transfer case.
It looks as if my main bearings on my engine are shot. So I have to pull the engine. Right now I am bouncing back and forth on whether I want to:
a) just replace the main bearings and throw the engine back in the truck. This would be cheapest and the quickest option.
b) get a full crank kit and replace all the low end stuff. Some more cost and some more time.
c) say screw it and get a "new" re-manufactured engine (I can get one for about $1600), throw all the old engine top end (intakes, sensors, etc) on it. Much more cost and probably only a little more time than option "b".
The two primary factors are cost and time (in that order). I don't have extra of either. This is my wife's daily driver and it's running well. So I can't really pull the engine and then decide after I look at everything. Basically when I first disconnect the negative cable from the battery and "start the clock", I need to have everything bought and ready to go sitting on the workbench. Not waiting for 3-5 days for parts to come in.
When I bought the Blazer, I fully expected to have to replace the engine...but it runs so well, burns no oil, and all six spark plugs are textbook examples of what used spark plugs should look like. Didn't get around to compression tests because there was really no need. I just really wonder if I am spending money I do not need to by getting a new engine.
So, money is tight, time is tight....which option would you choose in my shoes?
1998 2 Dr Blazer, 4X4, 4.3L Vortek (Vin "W")(218,000 miles), Stick NVG3500 transmission with internal hydraulic slave clutch, NV233 transfer case.
It looks as if my main bearings on my engine are shot. So I have to pull the engine. Right now I am bouncing back and forth on whether I want to:
a) just replace the main bearings and throw the engine back in the truck. This would be cheapest and the quickest option.
b) get a full crank kit and replace all the low end stuff. Some more cost and some more time.
c) say screw it and get a "new" re-manufactured engine (I can get one for about $1600), throw all the old engine top end (intakes, sensors, etc) on it. Much more cost and probably only a little more time than option "b".
The two primary factors are cost and time (in that order). I don't have extra of either. This is my wife's daily driver and it's running well. So I can't really pull the engine and then decide after I look at everything. Basically when I first disconnect the negative cable from the battery and "start the clock", I need to have everything bought and ready to go sitting on the workbench. Not waiting for 3-5 days for parts to come in.
When I bought the Blazer, I fully expected to have to replace the engine...but it runs so well, burns no oil, and all six spark plugs are textbook examples of what used spark plugs should look like. Didn't get around to compression tests because there was really no need. I just really wonder if I am spending money I do not need to by getting a new engine.
So, money is tight, time is tight....which option would you choose in my shoes?
#3
if it is main bearings, its not uncommon for the crank to be damaged as well and need a regrind. could you simply pull the pan and slide some new bearings in? absolutely! would it last? probably for quite a while if the crank is ok.
Personally i would get a crankshaft for it, have it reground if necessary, get a set of rod and main bearings and a bottom end seal kit and tear into it on a weekend. if it still has good compression and burns no oil, you may get another 100k or so out of it.
Personally i would get a crankshaft for it, have it reground if necessary, get a set of rod and main bearings and a bottom end seal kit and tear into it on a weekend. if it still has good compression and burns no oil, you may get another 100k or so out of it.
#4
Diata, I'm going to go your route (aka option "b"). Option "a" was just plain stupid anyway. Now, I have a question if you or anyone else can offer advice. I am in the midst of my first full blown engine rebuild on my '97 Blazer. On that one, once I got it on the engine stand I took the top end apart before I rolled it over and took the bottom end apart.
Here's a dumb question...On this project ('98 Blazer) I do not plan on taking the top end apart (heads, intake, etc). Would there be any issues having the engine upside down with the everything left on? Like fluids that didn't drain fully or anything other issue?
Thanks for taking pity on me
Here's a dumb question...On this project ('98 Blazer) I do not plan on taking the top end apart (heads, intake, etc). Would there be any issues having the engine upside down with the everything left on? Like fluids that didn't drain fully or anything other issue?
Thanks for taking pity on me
#6
The deciding factor for me is how much of a budget do I have.If the top end is good and its running as good as you say get a crankshaft kit for around $300.
More than likely if you have main bearings bad you probaly have a rod bearing two thats bad also and damage to the crankshaft.
When you get ready to do the job,right before have some fun drive it like you stole it.
More than likely if you have main bearings bad you probaly have a rod bearing two thats bad also and damage to the crankshaft.
When you get ready to do the job,right before have some fun drive it like you stole it.
#7
That's kind of what I was "afearin" jaystoy, that oil and/water might end up in the wrong places *sigh*. I know how I am...pulling the heads and LIM off I'm going to say to myself..
"Self, looky there...the pistons are right there...why I should go ahead and change them there rods and pistons while I am it. Now Self, you know you can't just change those pistons without checking the cylinders for taper and possibly have them honed .010 over if needed to remove the taper. And Self, you know you can't take it to the machine shop with the cam and that other stuff in there...metal shaving might end up in the wrong places....so you'd better take that stuff out too. Matter of fact Self, you should go ahead and have this block hot dipped and magged also before they even do any honing."
Meanwhile, 3 weeks later "I'm sorry Honey...any day now your friend won't have to come and pick you up and bring you home from work...I promise. Now can you please stop bothering me...I'm waiting for someone to answer my question on the Blazerforum"
Option "C" is looking better and better...
"Self, looky there...the pistons are right there...why I should go ahead and change them there rods and pistons while I am it. Now Self, you know you can't just change those pistons without checking the cylinders for taper and possibly have them honed .010 over if needed to remove the taper. And Self, you know you can't take it to the machine shop with the cam and that other stuff in there...metal shaving might end up in the wrong places....so you'd better take that stuff out too. Matter of fact Self, you should go ahead and have this block hot dipped and magged also before they even do any honing."
Meanwhile, 3 weeks later "I'm sorry Honey...any day now your friend won't have to come and pick you up and bring you home from work...I promise. Now can you please stop bothering me...I'm waiting for someone to answer my question on the Blazerforum"
Option "C" is looking better and better...
#8
Your funny, but so true. My buddy and I call it the spiral downward. I know the feeling, but good luck. One thing that stings me with my s10, whenever I try to cut a corner, it Always comes back to bite me, plus option c should come with some sort of warranty
#9
Above post I dig the humor init
Anyways something else I forgot do you take a chance on a used engine?Unless theres a warranty that comes with it?
Then if its bad you might have to pull the used engine again.
How bad to I need this vehicle on the road can I afford a week a month for it to be down.
Are you mechanicaly inclined enough to repair the engine?
Cat litter andf rags will soak up any oil and coolant that gets spilled.
I wish you were near me cause I have a complete long block thats been rebuilt by a once certified mechanic ME.
Its in my way and I have been just keeping it as a spare.
Then if its bad you might have to pull the used engine again.
How bad to I need this vehicle on the road can I afford a week a month for it to be down.
Are you mechanicaly inclined enough to repair the engine?
Cat litter andf rags will soak up any oil and coolant that gets spilled.
I wish you were near me cause I have a complete long block thats been rebuilt by a once certified mechanic ME.
Its in my way and I have been just keeping it as a spare.
#10
1sttimejimmy are you saying saying that besides the mess on the floor (which I fully expected) there is no problem internally (as in fluids going to the wrong places) leaving all the top end stuff (intakes, heads, etc) on the engine and turning it upside down to work on the bottom end?
The re-manufactured engine I'm looking at comes with a 3yr warranty. I'm not a certified mechanic, but I worked in a speed shop for a short time back the early '80s as a teenager which got me hooked on car mechanics as a hobby. Since then I work on my cars, friends cars, family cars. I did have a few years where I didn't touch cars because of all the computer crap. That is definitely my weakness. I'm learning a lot from you guys on that part and you can count on questions being fired atcha. I have a 4 car garage (reason I bought the house) that I set up into a pretty decent shop. About the only thing I am missing is a lift (and I'd have one too if the friggin ceiling was two feet higher
Not worried about the mechanical inclined part, just the time. I tend to pay very close attention to detail so my work generally takes twice or three times as long as someone else. So the time factor is the main thing now. Get it out, get it in for this one...that's why I am leaning more to Option "C". My other Blazer is my hobby Blazer that I am in the midst of a complete rebuild.
The re-manufactured engine I'm looking at comes with a 3yr warranty. I'm not a certified mechanic, but I worked in a speed shop for a short time back the early '80s as a teenager which got me hooked on car mechanics as a hobby. Since then I work on my cars, friends cars, family cars. I did have a few years where I didn't touch cars because of all the computer crap. That is definitely my weakness. I'm learning a lot from you guys on that part and you can count on questions being fired atcha. I have a 4 car garage (reason I bought the house) that I set up into a pretty decent shop. About the only thing I am missing is a lift (and I'd have one too if the friggin ceiling was two feet higher
Not worried about the mechanical inclined part, just the time. I tend to pay very close attention to detail so my work generally takes twice or three times as long as someone else. So the time factor is the main thing now. Get it out, get it in for this one...that's why I am leaning more to Option "C". My other Blazer is my hobby Blazer that I am in the midst of a complete rebuild.