Hey guys,

I'm back with another disaster with my 2001 Blazer.

I had a massive vacuum leak so I replaced the lower intake manifold gasket, etc. Used FelPro gaskets and everything seemed to do okay.

Installed everything and now engine won't start. It cranks fairly hard but will not ever start. I'm thinking I have a compression issue but am not sure where to start short of removing everything, checking seals, and reinstalling. Any other suggestions?

THanks.

 

Dizzy back in correctly?

 

I believe so, unfortunately there wasnt a way i could mark it because of the position it was in. Is there a way to verify the proper alignment at home?

 

Would one or two teeth off cause it not to start? I'm thinking that's the problem, I have fuel at least as far as the fuel lines where the test port is, and it won't start with starter fluid so I'm thinking spark.

 

https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...-timing-24373/

This should help...

 

I read through that and attempted to follow it. Have you ever done this job yourself? I'm having a hard time turning the crank and feeling if air is coming out.

It seems to be an impossible angle. Unfortunately I'm stuck tonight because the battery is too dead to even attempt to start it.

This may be a stupid question, but, if it doesnt start when everything is back together will the crank pulley turn? I'm just thinking that if it doesnt start I can crank it around one time and be in the compression stroke or is that incorrect?

Thanks again guys.

 

Yes I have done it and yes I have done it by myself. Remove the air box and pull the #1 spark plug. It is simpler to have someone help you, but it is doable solo. Put a deepwell socket on the bolt head in the middle of the crankshaft pulley. As you turn the ratchet, you are going to build compression in the cylinders and it will get harder to turn. Just pause a moment and it will be easier to turn again. The crankshaft pulley is easier to reach from underneath. With a long ratchet handle you can still turn the crankshaft from up above while feeling for air coming out of the #1 cylinder. Start moving the crankshaft from underneath. When you get close to the marks lining up, then move topside and feel for air while continuing to rotate the crankshaft. Or, just get someone to hold their finger over the hole for a second or two while you turn it...

 

Okay, I'm still stuck, I'm pretty sure I have the dizzy in right. Here is what I did, I lined the marks up one way and it wouldn't start. So, without taking the dizzy off I rotated the crank until the marks lined up again, the dizzy was 180 degrees off. So I took the dizzy out and put it in 180 degrees and it still won't start.

I've got fuel as far as the valve in the fuel rails, starter is good because it turns over, battery is good. How do I check for vacuum leaks without a running engine? I'm also wondering if the cap and rotor on the dizzy are bad, wouldn't think that would cause it to present like this but i'm not sure.

Any help is appreciated...

 

Did you actually pull the #1 plug and stick a finger over the head to determine if you were on the compression stroke for #1 cylinder? It's possible you had the dizzy in right the first time and the no start is being caused by something else... I think now you really need to verify the position of the dizzy. When you are certain it is correct, make sure your plug wires are all in the correct spot as well. It is easy to mix those up, esp the 3 and 5.

How old are your cap and rotor?

You may want to check your fuel pump as well.

But you have to make sure the dizzy is correct...

 

Okay. I'm going to make a cheap tool to test for compression. I couldn't feel air out of it at all when i was trying earlier because my hands/arms are too fat to get to the plug hole lol. I'm thinking something like a whistle or a squeeker attached to a length of hose.

Honestly, the cap and rotor could be original as far as I know, they don't look great, but, they don't look terrible either.

I just think it is too big of a coincidence that they would be fine when I parked it and now they are no good. Ever heard of anything like that?

I also noticed that when I line up the dimples on the dist. shaft with the painted mark on the shaft that the pointer on the rotor is not directly at the "6". Don't know if that matters.