My problem is solved. Long behold the ears on the distributor for the cap are cracked not maintaining a grip. Temporarily tied down and problem fixed. Now just order new distributor and replace. Thank you guys

 

Glad to hear you got it figured out. Thanks for letting us know what your problem was, so others can learn. A number of us on this forum have had good results with this distributor (link below). It's all metal, and it's very inexpensive. I replaced the distributor for the same reason as you when I first got my vehicle - broken/cracked ears for the cap hold down screws. I've got about 30K on mine now, but I did replace the cam position sensor with my old Delco one and put a Delco cap and rotor on when I first installed it. Figured I saved plenty on the distributor and could afford to pay for a Delco cap/rotor. The ones that come with it are pure Chinesium! If you replace the cam position sensor, make sure rotating parts do not hit or rub on it when the distributor turns. I had to adjust the position of my cam sensor slightly and then tighten the screws - something you want to do before you stab the distributor into the engine and can no longer turn it with your hand.

https://www.skipwhiteperformance.com...6671-bk_89687/

p.s. you should get that scan tool coming so you can check "cam sensor retard" after installing the new distributor. This has to do where the rotor points when the spark comes through (not ignition timing itself). Cam sensor retard should be 0° ± 2° or you can get misfiring when ignition timing is at it's extremes. If the factory distributor hold down (locked position) does not get you there, then some distributor gear wear or timing chain stretch is evident. We can still tell you how to modify to adjust it. If you get a P1345 after installing the new distributor, you are on the wrong tooth.

 

Ignition control module (ICM), ignition coil and ignition switch can cause a rough idle, low fuel mileage, stalling after engine warms, click and no crank or crank but not start. Start cheap and check fuses, connections, hot & ground wires, you may get lucky. If all that looks good think about the engine control module (ECM), do the same for everything related to it.

I bought my '98 in Nov. of '97. I learned about ten years ago to start with the small stuff, then listen to everything from the point of inserting the key, fuel pump kicking in, the starter engaging then the engine cranking. We all know the dings, clicks, moans and groans of one we've driven for a while. If it's broke it usually don't sound right somewhere along the line.

Not very technical but it works for me, I'm no mechanic but I'm still driving mine. The advice you've already gotten probably covers it but I hope it's an easy cheap fix for you. Like to know what you figure out.

Danielle

 

Rough running at constant even speed could be slop in the distributor gear too. I've got a 98 4.3 and had the same issue. Chased it for quite awhile before replacing the distributor. Solved my issue, but yours may not be the same.