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Set the timing.....now it won't start

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  #1  
Old 08-29-2012, 06:27 PM
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Default Set the timing.....now it won't start

Background....'87 Toyota 4Runner. '92 S-10 Blazer CPFI 4.3 and 4L60, stock ECU and wiring. Engine should function almost exactly as stock.

I have an aftermarket fuel pump, that is rated to like 85 psi. I can hear it run, and when the truck has been sitting for awhile or was recently turned over/run, you can hear the tone of the pump change as the system pressurizes.


Had it running, went for a test-drive the last time I worked on it, and it ran, but didn't have much power.

Found my timing light today, so I decided to get it dialed in. Started the truck, and let it idle for a few minutes to get it up to temp. Shut it off, unplugged the advance bypass, hooked up the timing light, started the truck again, and began adjusting. I discovered that it was really retarded, and as I advanced it, the engine ran much smoother. BUT, when I got it set where it should be, it coughed and died.

Got in it, tried again, and it started, and I tried to see how modulating the throttle would effect it. It didn't, ran great for a few seconds, then died.

After that, it will crank, but not fire at all, no sign of life. I'm inclined to say that the injector is not firing at all, because the tone of the fuel pump tells me that there's zero drop in pressure.


Check for OBD codes....none.

02 Sensor is not hooked up, I need to lengthen the wires yet...




Thoughts?
 
  #2  
Old 08-29-2012, 07:17 PM
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Just had a thought.....

The donor truck didn't have any plug wires on it when I got it, so I installed them based on a diagram.

I just went out and looked at it, once I got the disty turned enough that the #1 was firing at the right time, the electrical plugs at the base of the cap are off 20* or so counter-clockwise from how the diagram looks like they should be. Is it possible that I have the wires off one post, and that is confusing things?
 
  #3  
Old 08-30-2012, 08:18 PM
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Moved all the plug wires one post over, and reset the timing.

That seemed to make it a bit better, but not alltogether solved. Then it ran better when it was cold, but once it was up to temp, it started acting up again.


Today, it started up beautifully, idled well, pulled pretty hard in gear (just loading up against the brakes, too much crap in the way for a test-drive....). But as soon as the temp gauge hit normal operating temp (stock toyota sender/digital gauge), it sputtered and died.


BUT, I noticed that while it was running, the check engine light came on. So when it quit, I checked the code......15. CTS.

I know we have them in stock at work (AutoZone), so I'll buy one tomorrow, and try that tomorrow night.
 
  #4  
Old 09-27-2012, 12:05 PM
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CTS made it better....but not completely cured.


Now it seems to do it whenever the hell it feels like it. Sometimes it runs awesome, and sometimes it just dies.


I think I have 2 separate, but overlapping, issues. I think my idle air control solenoid is sticking. Sometimes the idle will fluctuate wildly, and occasionally stall, like the valve isn't responding quick enough to properly manage the rpms. When this happens, the engine will immediately start back up. And a light tap on the intake by the valve with a hammer seems to help. I would throw a new one in there, but when I tried pulling the solenoid off to paint the intake, one of the bolts broke, and the other seemed like it was about to. So I'm really avoiding opening that can of worms if I can help it. I sprayed a bunch of SeaFoam through it this morning, which seemed to help.

The other is more severe, and less predictable. It will be running fine, and then it will stumble once or twice, and die. When this happens, it will NOT refire. When I crank it over, the fuel pump noise does not change (no pressure being relieved in the lines, tells me that no fuel is being injected).

When it did it to me today, I tried unplugging sensors, and wiggling stuff around to get it to do something, to no avail. 02 sensor, Intake air temp sensor, ignition advance jumper, etc. Even disconnected the battery for awhile. None of these things seemed to make any difference. I know the 2 wires going to the injector have been spliced by a PO, so I'm going to check that splice, and see if that might be the cause. But moving them around didn't seem to make any difference.
 
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