Well, I have sucessfully runied my trans cooler lines (even using a flare wrench). How the heck do you get those lines off? I guess the important question is, where do I get replacement lines that are already bent for the application?

Thanks

 

The trans cooler circuit doesn't really have a ton of pressure running through it. If you have buggered up the end that threads into the radiator, you can simply buy a pipe thread to hose barb fitting and then run some soft line made for transmission fluid or fuel use that will fit somewhat tight over the hardline. Then double hose clamp it on the hard line and a single clamp on the fitting you install into the radiator. This is basically what is done for the fitting kits sold for installation of an auxilliary transmission oil cooler. You would want to cut the hard line down far enough so that the flex line doesn't have any kinks in it.

 

Does this apply at the transmission end as well?

 

You can run soft line for everything if you so choose. I'm not sure of the thread on the transmission end, but I'd think it's pipe thread of one size or another. Like I said earlier, you'll want to make sure that any time you put a soft line onto a smooth hardline end, you'll want to double clamp it to make sure that it doesn't leak. As well as make sure that your selection of hose is appropriate for the application and sized correctly. Too large of hose and it will have a much higher probability of leaking.

 

What year truck do you have?
The newer models have quick connects on the tranny end. There is a little clip that slides in a slot to hold the tranny cooler line in place. Take a small screwdriver and pry the clip out, then the cooling line comes right out. No need to mess with the fittings. The clip wire is thinner then a paper clip and real hard to see, unless you know to look for it. My '93 doesn't ahve quick connects, but my '00 does. Somewhere in between GM added them. I am thinking in '98 when they changed to the redesigned 4L60E tranny with seperate bellhousing.

LMC will sell you prebent replacement tranny cooler lines.
I prefer to buy new straight lines from my local autoparts store. Then bend them up to fit. Bend up the tranny end first, slide it into position, mock up the radiator end, slide it outand bend up the radiator end. Then slide in your custom made cooler lines. GM has the same size fittings at both ends, unlike Fords which are different. Another reason I like working on GMs over Fords.
Buy a cheap hand bender and practice on the old tranny cooler line. You can use the old line to mock up and bend the new line to match it too.
New metal staight line is less then $10, and $10 for a hand bender. Less then half the cost of the prebent stuff without shipping. I think the uper line (return) is 6', and the lower is 5'. Measure it to be sure. Swarts plan works too, however you need to be extremely careful with rubber hose by the exhaust system. It may melt and you will fry your tranny before you know your out of tranny fluid. If at all possible, run hard line past the exhaust system.

The best way to get at the tranny cooler lines on the tranny end is to take the exhaust pipe out.You will have to disconnect the exhaust systemfrom the exhaustmanifolds, and from the muffler. You may have to remove the whole exhaust system from teh truck to get the space you need to slide it apart. This can be a project all by itself and lead to more repairs in the exhaust system.
The other option is to raise the truck body up 3" or so. You will have to loosen all 10 body mounting bolts, depending on year of the truck that can be an adventure as well. Older vehicles will have rust to deal with and you could break the welded nut free from the body. Then you will have to drill a 2" hole through the floor board to gain access to the nut, jam in a pry bar to hold it in place, spray some PB Blaster to eat the rust and then take out the bolt. The 6 front bolts need to be removed, the 4 body bolts in the back can stay, but have to be loosened. Do NOT remove all body mount bolts!!!!
Remove the mechanical fan. Once you get the body bolts out/loosened and the mechanical fan out, place a 2x4 under the radiator support, length of the support. Do not bend your radiator support!!!! Use your floor jack and jack the body off the frame, place a couple short 2x4between the body and frame and lower thejack. Might have to remove the front bumper and splash guard to get in there. Now you can get your hands between the body and frame and get a tool on those fittings and still have space between the fittings and the floor to work. With this method you dont have to remove the exhaust system, your working above it.

Those are your two best options. I'll let you decide which one you want to tackle. Ihave done those two ways and a host of others. This is the mainreason I prefer a 2" body lift on the S10-Blazers. Gives me the room I need to work on and around the tranny. Without the body lift, my preferred method is totake out the exhaust system on older trucks. On newer trucks pull the clip.

Post up any questions and when you plan on doing this. Hit me up with a PM if you want my cell phone number. I can walk you throught this with my eyes closed.