Removing my engine from my 4x4 97 Blazer LT. What years are compatible with my year model ? ...Also if anyone has information on how to remove and install these engines, that would be helpful too. Thanks in advance.

 

any of the 1996-2000 vin W engines will work fine in your 1997.

 

OK thanks. So any GM vehicle 1996-2000 with a 4.3 Vortec and the VIN # starts with W ? Also I plan on pulling one from a salvage yard (cheapest option), besides mileage, checking oil, and turning crankshaft pulley, what else should I look for to better my chances of getting a decent engine ?

 

Engine code is the 8th digit in the VIN

Compression check and some luck are always helpful. Best wishes for a successful repair

 

ok thanks Lesmeyer you've been a big help !

 

Per the factory, engine removal calls for removing transfer case and then lowering back of transmission to get at all the bellhousing bolts, fuel line clamp, and ground straps on the rear of the heads.

However you can pull the engine with trans left in place (I call it peeling a 4.3 out of a Blazer), with radiator/shroud removed, remove passenger side exhaust manifold completely and take steering column loose at the steering gear for clearance. Remove A/C compressor and zip tie back onto the evaporator case with lines attached. Remove P/S pump on it's bracket and zip tie in corner ahead of P/S gear. Remove alternator and it's bracket completely. Remove AIR pump to exhaust manifold tubes. Unplug wiring from underside of underhood relay center and zip tie back in evap case area. Don't try to remove EGR tube from the drivers exhaust manifold. Your biggest challenge will be getting the fuel line clamp at the rear of the drivers side head and all of the ground straps off at the rear of both heads. Hint... wait until you move the engine forward a few inches with the hoist - then it is easy (read as "not impossible"). Throw the fuel line clamp away. Do plan on hooking up all the ground straps again. Of high difficulty will be the top two bellhousing bolts on the driver's side. zip a small flap appropriately positioned behind the accelerator pedal and bend it back for access to the lower of these two bellhousing bolts. Pull the distributor, knock sensor, and oil pressure sensor out to get the top bellhousing bolt 1/16 turn at a time with a short combo wrench. Be prepared to lose at least one wrench on top of the transmission. Reverse to install. Tight to get engine back between front diff and bellhousing, but it can be done with a floor jack/wood block under the trans pan. If you have big trouble then loosen and move the front differential a bit. Remember that starter and right motor mount is easy to get out/back in with the right exhaust manifold off - so do these things at an appropriate time.

Note - removing of the right exhaust manifold allows the engine to come out without big interference with the A/C evaporator case and the extreme twisting of the engine that is necessary to clear it with the manifold still on. I pulled engine out of mine with the passenger exhaust manifold on the first time, and then took it off when I went back in (and that worked MUCH better).

 

Thank You, Lesmyer ! Your post couldn't have been more timely for me ! I think I blew up the Blazer today. My lead foot was a major contributor ! At approximately 30 MPH I attempted an overtaking maneuver and while in passing gear lost all power having to roll to the side of the road.It turned over and started to run roughly for a couple seconds and shut down. I hope I may get lucky and only have valve train related problems. 201,404 miles. If not your advice will be referred to, Thanks Again, Donald

 

Your 2004 can use any 2001-2004 Vin W engine (w/ 2-wire knock sensor), but if you use one with an EGR valve (2004 does not have one) you will need to switch intake manifolds. Good luck.

 

Anyone done it

 

Done what? You need to be specific. Can't read your mind.