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There might be an option for using a Flaming River u-joint as a replacement for the rag-joint. The link below are instructions for how it is done on an S10 Blazer.
Dangerous advice, the ENGINEERS ( Not self apointed Internet Forum experts) put a deformable joint there for ACCIDENT SAFETY.
Put a new rag joint in. $40 US. The old joint in my 1978 is not loose or sloppy, and your statements about ' bad joint' and " replace steering box" sound contradictory.
FMFDOC, let's get some vehicle specifics here (year, make, model, etc.)...best to put it into a custom signature and attach that to all of your posts. The vast majority of this site is specific to the S-series trucks. From your other posts, it looks like you have a K5 so I will move this to the Full Size K5 Tech section.
The rag joint design is a cheap and good enough connection. I probably wouldn't change it out unless there were signs of wear or degredation. And then it comes down to how the vehicle is being used.. For a cruiser, swap out for a new stock design and motor on. If you were doing this on a track vehicle, the more sensitivity you can get to your finger tips, the better. But there aren't too many tracked s-10's or K5's...so I digress.
As far as dangerous advice... Any modification can be classified as dangerous depending on the skill level of the person doing the work and that of the modification they are doing. Same goes for simple wrenching on vehicles. Heck, using the cheap aftermarket junk that is available for "stock" replacement parts can be classified as a danger, but I digress; that's a bit off of the topic at hand here.
FMFDOC, let's get some vehicle specifics here (year, make, model, etc.)...best to put it into a custom signature and attach that to all of your posts. The vast majority of this site is specific to the S-series trucks. From your other posts, it looks like you have a K5 so I will move this to the Full Size K5 Tech section.
The rag joint design is a cheap and good enough connection. I probably wouldn't change it out unless there were signs of wear or degredation. And then it comes down to how the vehicle is being used.. For a cruiser, swap out for a new stock design and motor on. If you were doing this on a track vehicle, the more sensitivity you can get to your finger tips, the better. But there aren't too many tracked s-10's or K5's...so I digress.
As far as dangerous advice... Any modification can be classified as dangerous depending on the skill level of the person doing the work and that of the modification they are doing. Same goes for simple wrenching on vehicles. Heck, using the cheap aftermarket junk that is available for "stock" replacement parts can be classified as a danger, but I digress; that's a bit off of the topic at hand here.
Thanks a lot, I certainly appreciate a little guidance. That’s why I would prefer some kind of direct fit replacement option. I’m a big fan of buying new, getting a warranty and not driving a science experiment.
And yes… she’s just a cruiser. But I’m just tired of having to move the steering wheel back and fourth constantly while I drive. The play in the damn thing is like from the 11 o’clock position to the 1 o’clock position before I get any correction 😫
So what is it that you are driving?? The only way we can help you out with specifics is to know what you are working with.
The steering geometry in the square body full size trucks isn't the greatest in terms of feel in factory new condition. A lot has to do with the push-pull drag link setup that is on the 4wd models and not a lot to do with the steering column or steering gearbox itself. Then there is the propensity for the frame to crack under the steering gearbox which adds to the rubbery feeling. But lets get those specifics and go from there.
So what is it that you are driving?? The only way we can help you out with specifics is to know what you are working with.
The steering geometry in the square body full size trucks isn't the greatest in terms of feel in factory new condition. A lot has to do with the push-pull drag link setup that is on the 4wd models and not a lot to do with the steering column or steering gearbox itself. Then there is the propensity for the frame to crack under the steering gearbox which adds to the rubbery feeling. But let’s get those specifics and go from there.
Ok, assuming it is a 4wd model, I would go through the steering joints checking for play. There are 4 tie rod end joints in the system; two in the drag link between the steering gearbox and the driver side steering knuckle and two in the crossover link that runs between the two steering knuckles. The diagram below is from LMC Truck:
Inspect the frame around the gearbox as well. There are a few different bolt in brace kits that were available last I looked, but it has been awhile. There used to be weld in frame repair/reinforcement panels as well made by ORD --> LINK TO THEIR PAGE. The image below shows some typical cracks that can form. This is taken with the steering gearbox removed, but the cracks can often be seen from the inside of the frame rail.
Ok, assuming it is a 4wd model, I would go through the steering joints checking for play. There are 4 tie rod end joints in the system; two in the drag link between the steering gearbox and the driver side steering knuckle and two in the crossover link that runs between the two steering knuckles. The diagram below is from LMC Truck:
Inspect the frame around the gearbox as well. There are a few different bolt in brace kits that were available last I looked, but it has been awhile. There used to be weld in frame repair/reinforcement panels as well made by ORD --> LINK TO THEIR PAGE. The image below shows some typical cracks that can form. This is taken with the steering gearbox removed, but the cracks can often be seen from the inside of the frame rail.
I had a mechanic replace all of the old Tie rods, knuckles, and all the rest of the front end suspension when I first got her. I asked him to look for any cracked frame while he changed some stuff out and he said he couldn’t see any issues with the frame.
That is good that your frame is crack free. The bolt in support for the steering box area can still be a beneficial addition even for an around town cruiser.
As far as the other links go, having been replaced recently, they likely are good. You can check each one with your hand on the joint while someone else moves the steering wheel a bit in each direction. Same goes for checking the rag joint.
Another source of play could be the column itself. The tilt columns were known for getting loose as they aged. Basically, a few screws in the column can loosen up and cause excessive play. A google search for "loose chevy steering column" should turn up quite a bit of information on it.
Best direct fit option…
