What plugs are you running? I know sometimes these motors dont like platinum. Mine didnt so i just used the AC Delco and the issue went away. It chugged and bogged.

 

Scott, this is "normal" for this trans (I don't like it either). The reason being it has a tall First gear 3.06 (off the top of my head) and a 2.73 second if memory serves, which as far as gears go is a substantial gap. If every sensor is not perfect (including emmissions) and/or any vacuum leaks noticed or not, 1-2 will slap. My advice would be to take your foot out of it a little bit, til you get into second gear. I also have HFS (heavy foot syndrome).

Best of luck,
Brian

 

I have learned to let off the gas just before the one two shift. I can still punch it of needed to pull out in traffic and just let off just before the shift, I have it down pretty good. Well today I got a call from my girlfriend saying the truck wouldn't start a maintenance man at my kids school came and helped. He figured it was a dead battery, so they jumped it and I guess he disconnected the negative cable to check to see if it was the alternator. I guess he disconnected it while it was running and the truck didn't die and said it was the battery, can you check it like that? Seems to make sense. Maybe just a low voltage problem, could that cause these problems by messing with sensors. I guess I will find out since I am gonna swap out the battery no matter what since I have a new one in the garage.

 

Well my chevy is about to be driven off a cliff. In one month it has been towed twice, the first time I got stuck at a gas station after I filled the tank up the fuel pump went out, I don't have to tell you how fun that was with a full tank. We will just say everything at my house from the car, boat, lawn mower, gas cans were filled up. Then the ignition module went out so I had to get towed from the freeway. So I got scared after that and didn't drive her until the snow came. Now when I accelerate from a stop it will stay in first no matter how fast I get up to, I have to get up pretty high on rpms then let off the gas completely and barely give it gas to get it to shift into second.and if I am in fourth and step on it hard it will drop two gears and the rpms will redline. Other than that it shifts fine. Its as if something isn't comunicating with the tranny to tell it how fast I am going or what rpm I am at.I am gonna try the tps and see if that fixes anything, I figured I would vent here and keep updating my progress to maybe help someone else in the future. I will try to get the tps tomorrow, does this seem to be something it might be.

 

It's not your TPS. You can verify TPS is ok with a digital multimeter. The dark blue wire, I believe (0-5v, smooth rise to nearly 5v as throttle is opened; ignition on, engine off)

Could be the tranny VSS or DRAC, might just be a burned/unplugged wire or something stupid. The DRAC is under teh dash (somewhere..). There is also a t-case VSS for speedometer&cruise, but it has nothing to do with shifting whatsoever.

Or, (more likely), your 2-4 band is extremely worn/loose. Tranny has to get rebuilt/replaced to fix this, no less than $800 if you expect a shop to do it ($1200-$1500 if you want the rebuild done right). At that point you're almost better off just buying a new tranny from GM and having them install it with 36month warranty.. car-part.com or check your local u-pull-it yards if you're feeling lucky for a used tranny.

If you have a laptop, you might want to build/buy an obd1 ALDL cable (2 transistor cable can be built from radio shack parts for $6, this is what I use). You have the 7427 PCM ($0d.xdf), and tunerpro RT is free software that will let you datalog. Then you can figure out why the PCM isn't commanding 2nd gear (or if it is...). A shop/dealer can maybe do this with a decent handheld obd1 scan tool, but they won't be able to get a log for later review, so it's a crapshoot to see what's happening if they don't have experience with obd1 and the 4l60e.