Notes on working with the SM 465 trans
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 268
From: Tennessee
Notes on working with the SM 465 trans
78 K5 350 4 speed.
1. Lord help you if you remove the front bearing retainer and let the input shaft move out of position.. There are 10 rollers in the back of the input gear shaft and they can fall out and down into the trans. You'll invent new cuss words if that happens...
2. Beware of throwout bearings that dont have proper radius where the bearing goes against the retainer when pushed back.
3. Put the trans in N to remove shifter lever. It's much more difficult to reinstall the shift lever if the trans is in gear.
4. Before reinstalling the trans, put the old clutch disc on the input splines and quickky spin it 20 or 30 revs with the trans in high gear to engage the synchro. Then the output yoke of the transfer case can be rotated by hand while trying to put the splines into the clutch hub to align the splines.
5.Watch that the reverse switch cable doesnt get pinched between the bellhousing and engine block. I did pinch it and now the reverse lights are stuck on. The reverse light switch was hit and broken while moving the trans around.
Should remove the switch first before moving the trans.
6. Be VERY careful to not overtighten the U joint U bolts when installing the driveshaft. U joint caps are very thin and can actually be compressed in with your FINGERS and change the roller clearances. I coat the threads with medium loctite and just barely tighten the U bolts. The U joint caps are intended to fit in a light interference fit in the round bores in the yokes not a heavy force along the edge of those U bolts.
7. Chronic leaks on the PTO covers are caused by prying them off with a tool. That bends the covers. Check them for flatness against plate glass or a granite countertop before reinstalling. There is special gasket compound available for use with gear oil. Tapping a tack hammer around the perimeter of the cover will show where its bent. There will be a hollow sound when theres a gap between cover and trans.
8. Some of the bolt holes for the PTO covers should be sealed- they go thru the case and contact the oil so oil can leak past the threads.
9. The best source for SM 465 parts and info is Novak Conversions in Utah. I bought all the parts for a total rebuild including both shafts from them Good parts.
Dont try to rebuild it unless you are absolutely sure of your abilities and have BEARING PULLERS. It's a difficult job!
10. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT let the reverse gear clash when shifting. Its a square cut gear and soft. Itll chip off. Let the internals come to a complete stop before shifting into R or granny.
Theres a 30# countershaft in that trans, it takes a while to spin down.
11. For driving around town at 35 mph or less, put the transfer case in 4H and takeoffs are easier, using 2nd and 3rd gear only. That eliminates one shift. It also gives the case some exercise.
12. It's much easier to add oil in the top of the trans with the shifter removed. Put the trans in N before removing the shifter.
13. This is a synchronized trans but it doesn't like being speed shifted.
14. If you're ever low on trans oil, theres probably a spare quart in the transfer case. The oil leaks back thru the seals in the extension housing into the transfer case. I put new seals in the extension housing that holds the trans and transfer cases together and the trans vent is open and it still moves oil from trans to the transfer case. I dont know why.
15 synthetic oil is a waste of money in this trans. I tried it. Didn't help.
16. It may be easier to shift if holding the shift shaft BELOW the shifter **** down on the metal shaft Old truck drivers trick...when using the plastic ball, force on the shift lever is back, and to the side and down and that causes the shift forks to drag a bit. Using two fingers on the shaft to eliminate down force makes shifts easier.
1. Lord help you if you remove the front bearing retainer and let the input shaft move out of position.. There are 10 rollers in the back of the input gear shaft and they can fall out and down into the trans. You'll invent new cuss words if that happens...
2. Beware of throwout bearings that dont have proper radius where the bearing goes against the retainer when pushed back.
3. Put the trans in N to remove shifter lever. It's much more difficult to reinstall the shift lever if the trans is in gear.
4. Before reinstalling the trans, put the old clutch disc on the input splines and quickky spin it 20 or 30 revs with the trans in high gear to engage the synchro. Then the output yoke of the transfer case can be rotated by hand while trying to put the splines into the clutch hub to align the splines.
5.
Should remove the switch first before moving the trans.
6. Be VERY careful to not overtighten the U joint U bolts when installing the driveshaft. U joint caps are very thin and can actually be compressed in with your FINGERS and change the roller clearances. I coat the threads with medium loctite and just barely tighten the U bolts. The U joint caps are intended to fit in a light interference fit in the round bores in the yokes not a heavy force along the edge of those U bolts.
7. Chronic leaks on the PTO covers are caused by prying them off with a tool. That bends the covers. Check them for flatness against plate glass or a granite countertop before reinstalling. There is special gasket compound available for use with gear oil. Tapping a tack hammer around the perimeter of the cover will show where its bent. There will be a hollow sound when theres a gap between cover and trans.
8. Some of the bolt holes for the PTO covers should be sealed- they go thru the case and contact the oil so oil can leak past the threads.
9. The best source for SM 465 parts and info is Novak Conversions in Utah. I bought all the parts for a total rebuild including both shafts from them Good parts.
Dont try to rebuild it unless you are absolutely sure of your abilities and have BEARING PULLERS. It's a difficult job!
10. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT let the reverse gear clash when shifting. Its a square cut gear and soft. Itll chip off. Let the internals come to a complete stop before shifting into R or granny.
Theres a 30# countershaft in that trans, it takes a while to spin down.
11. For driving around town at 35 mph or less, put the transfer case in 4H and takeoffs are easier, using 2nd and 3rd gear only. That eliminates one shift. It also gives the case some exercise.
12. It's much easier to add oil in the top of the trans with the shifter removed. Put the trans in N before removing the shifter.
13. This is a synchronized trans but it doesn't like being speed shifted.
14. If you're ever low on trans oil, theres probably a spare quart in the transfer case. The oil leaks back thru the seals in the extension housing into the transfer case. I put new seals in the extension housing that holds the trans and transfer cases together and the trans vent is open and it still moves oil from trans to the transfer case. I dont know why.
15 synthetic oil is a waste of money in this trans. I tried it. Didn't help.
16. It may be easier to shift if holding the shift shaft BELOW the shifter **** down on the metal shaft Old truck drivers trick...when using the plastic ball, force on the shift lever is back, and to the side and down and that causes the shift forks to drag a bit. Using two fingers on the shaft to eliminate down force makes shifts easier.
Last edited by daveca; Aug 31, 2020 at 01:22 PM.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 268
From: Tennessee
PS replaced the backup (reverse) light switch.
DONT buy it from NAPA- absolute JUNK. The terminals are incorrectly made and very fragile with a very tiny copper rivet that can break off.
Id recommend the Standard Motor part from Summit Racing. Standard is a good name.
DONT buy it from NAPA- absolute JUNK. The terminals are incorrectly made and very fragile with a very tiny copper rivet that can break off.
Id recommend the Standard Motor part from Summit Racing. Standard is a good name.
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