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Replacing floor & tailgate pans, rocker panels??

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Old 12-10-2009, 09:05 AM
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Default Replacing floor & tailgate pans, rocker panels??

OK, maybe I'm just not smart enough to search correctly on here, but I DID try and came up empty handed.

Does anyone have any pics or "how-to" on replacing metal on their Blazer? I'm fairly new to most of this and have a basic understanding, but wanted some reassurance and/or maybe some pointers of what to expect.

I've got a 91 full size that needs rear floor pans, tailgate pan, and everything around the driver side rocker panel and will hopefully be ordering new metal around or after Christmas.

Thanks guys!....Bill

..my bad if I couldn't find an obvious already posted article on this
 
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:45 PM
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I've got a thread that kinda shows what I did. My first attempt so probably not the best but check out Swartlkk's replies he's very helpful.
IMO a plasma cutter would've made thing's alot easier. Sunbelt Rentals rents them as complete systems, tanks, compressor cutter.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/showth...ighlight=panel
 
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:26 AM
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Thanks!! Looks like you were doing pretty much the same stuff as me. Plus I've never welded yet, so this should be interesting.

I like that Irish/American shamrock in your sig!
 
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Old 12-15-2009, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Hooligan View Post
Thanks!! Looks like you were doing pretty much the same stuff as me. Plus I've never welded yet, so this should be interesting.

I like that Irish/American shamrock in your sig!

I would suggest getting some scrap metal and trying to weld some stuff together before getting anywhere near the blazer. And try at different angles and upside down as well. I had a few welds on the tail pan that looked like dirt dauber condos...LOL

As for the sig. That is thanks to the efforts of TripleBlackBlazer.
 
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:12 AM
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Wow, suddenly this fun little project doesn't sound so fun or little! lol
 
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Old 12-22-2009, 11:30 AM
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Ah it's not so bad but it IS a time investment. The cutting and all can be done with a die grinder or angle grinder and a pair of metal snips as well. It's just a little more time consuming.
 
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:51 AM
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What type of welding setup do you have?
From my experience:
Brazing: O.K. but not preferred welds, Watch your heat as it will deform panels.
Flux Core: Nearly unusable, You will burn allot of holes (unless you are on 16ga or thicker) I think the metal you have on your K5 and the repair panels are like 22ga???
Mig: This is the best for body repairs PERIOD.....
Tig: Great welds, once you get the hang of it. (Steep learning curve) Rather slow process for welding panels.
 
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:02 AM
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I think you meant 'stick' or general arc welding instead of 'flux core'. I have used flux core wire in my MIG (Millermatic 140) on sheetmetal with great success. All depends on what you are working with. I have found that flux core wire works better when you are dealing with some dirty, original metal. Also works really good in windy conditions if you are welding outside or if you need your welder to act a little more powerful than it really is (flux core wire penetrates better than an equivalent solid wire in my experiences with it).

I agree that MIG is the best for bodywork. You just can't beat the cost vs. performance aspect. Do yourself a favor though and get a quality machine. I used a number of smaller machines before I settled on my MM140. I bought this for its versatility. Being a 120V machine and flux core capable, I can plug it into any 20A plug and weld away (and have). Heck, I've even run my welder off of a 3kW generator with great results. For the heavier stuff, I have access to a 250A machine whenever I want to use it (thanks Dad). With the fine amperage control, the heat can be much more precisely controlled.

As far as how to replace panels, some of the best experience you will ever get is on the job experience. Get your patch panels ahead of time and measure, mark, and remeasure before cutting out the bad. Make sure that the panel you purchased will cover over the hole you are going to cut before you cut it. Take things apart at seems that you know you will be replacing.

Get yourself a set of good quality spot weld cutters. You'll use the crap out of them.
 
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:55 AM
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Are the spot weld cutters like the air shears or the drill bit contraption? I'll probably get some metal from LMC but there are a few random pieces I'll need to fix other spots they don't make panels for. ..any idea where to get metal like that, and what gauge (22?)?

I know, this project has FAIL written all over it. lol

The only welder I have is my Dads old stick welder from the 60s or 70s (yikes) but a few of my buddies have mig machines that run the wire fed flux core. Someone also told me about an adhesive product like Norton Product Line but I'm not convinced I want the area my SEAT is attached to, to be glued in place.
 
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:31 PM
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Eastwood has a great product called "Weldless Panel Repair". It is basically system that uses epoxy and recessed rivets to attach new sheet metal. I've seen it used on "Trucks" on Spike and will be using it soon personally. I am in the process of restoring/repairing a 1989 Blazer. Everything is torn out of the Blazer and I've taken the Front fenders/inner fenders off along with the front end. Looks like I will be replacing the body mounts so will go with a 2-3 inch lift. I will also be replacing /repairing floor metal, rocker/quarter panels and parts of the rear floor also. HArd to know where to stop demo and start reassembly. Good luck with your project.
 

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