Runs worse then a distruction derby car.
Im sorry for posting a new thread, i couldnt find my original one.
My truck doesnt want to stay running, and when it does run it sounds terrable and wants to die as soon as my foot comes off the gas. It will stay running after around 30 seconds of holding the pedel part way doen.One thing i noticed right off the bat is that it smells strongly of fuel.
.
This is what ive done so far.
Pulled and bench tested alternator and battery.
Pulled and cleaned the PCV and EGR.
Used a fault code reader that returned a code reguarding the coolant temp sensor.
Checked for leaksin hoses and gasketsuseing a couple suggested meathods.
Fuel pressure test came back within the factory specs.
The tune up was done recently and ran great for a few weeks.
The only thing i havent done is the timing. it does need to be done but I dont think it could have gotten so far off so fast. I drove it about a month ago and it ran well, but as soon as i went to drive it again it was awfull. thats why i dont think the timing is what is wrong in this case.
Thanks for any help.
My truck doesnt want to stay running, and when it does run it sounds terrable and wants to die as soon as my foot comes off the gas. It will stay running after around 30 seconds of holding the pedel part way doen.One thing i noticed right off the bat is that it smells strongly of fuel.
.
This is what ive done so far.
Pulled and bench tested alternator and battery.
Pulled and cleaned the PCV and EGR.
Used a fault code reader that returned a code reguarding the coolant temp sensor.
Checked for leaksin hoses and gasketsuseing a couple suggested meathods.
Fuel pressure test came back within the factory specs.
The tune up was done recently and ran great for a few weeks.
The only thing i havent done is the timing. it does need to be done but I dont think it could have gotten so far off so fast. I drove it about a month ago and it ran well, but as soon as i went to drive it again it was awfull. thats why i dont think the timing is what is wrong in this case.
Thanks for any help.
"Used a fault code reader that returned a code reguarding the coolant temp sensor."
If the sensor is faulty and telling the computer it's too cold, it would dump WAY more fuel into the engine than needs to be there. I would suggest getting a new sensor.
If the sensor is faulty and telling the computer it's too cold, it would dump WAY more fuel into the engine than needs to be there. I would suggest getting a new sensor.
Yes it is that "advanced"...lol The computer (ECM) is basically only used to monitor and adjust the air-fuel ratio trying to achieve a constant stoichiometric ratio (14.7:1) Anyway, if you are setting a coolant temp sensor code then that's undoubtedly why you're running so rich. The ECM thinks the engine is stone cold so it's enriching the air-fuel ratio to compensate for it. You really need to check that coolant temp sensor...on your truck it is right beside the thermostat housing in the intake manifold...has a 2-wire connector. If you've run it alot like this your plugs are probably fuel-fouled also, and you could have damaged the catalytic converter.....but don't condem them just yet.
Ive been having long start problems, im hoping maybe this might fix that too.
i found the exact code it says"coolant temperature sensor or circuit fault. signal voltage high"
Well ill give it a try. the parts only $10.50 so its worth it.
Thanks for the help.
i found the exact code it says"coolant temperature sensor or circuit fault. signal voltage high"
Well ill give it a try. the parts only $10.50 so its worth it.
Thanks for the help.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
barnesto
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
31
Jun 11, 2014 07:12 PM
luvmyblaze
Engine & Transmission
0
Jan 25, 2014 10:36 AM
valeria1782
Engine & Transmission
5
Mar 7, 2012 06:30 PM
outdoorxman
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
15
Jun 12, 2007 05:06 PM







