Where is the fuel filter?
Having a fuel problem as well. I am waiting for a multi-tester and the tbi adapter so I
Can test the injectors and fuel pressure. I changed the relay. Now I feel like I'm sitting on my hands. Anything else I can do in the meantime. I read though this thread and would really like to know for sure what it is before I buy a pump.
Can test the injectors and fuel pressure. I changed the relay. Now I feel like I'm sitting on my hands. Anything else I can do in the meantime. I read though this thread and would really like to know for sure what it is before I buy a pump.
I replaced the fuel pump, sender and filter and it still wouldn't run (but the pump had gone bad). Thought it was the coil.. not the coil. replaced the ignition module and that worked. Drove it for awhile and it was fine. Then it started smelling like gas. Had a gas leak. replaced the gaskets on the TB and my neighbor did something to the threads where the fuel line connects and fixed the problem. Then it started surging and stalling like it did before the pump went out. I have to keep my foot on the gas at red lights or whenever stopped. Also stalls out in reverse. Replaced the IAC valve. Still surging and stalling. Cleaned out the EGR valve, MAP(F) sensor, and TP and Sensor. One might ask "what do you mean clean out the aforementioned parts?" Well when I removed the MAP(F) and the TP dealy there were spider nests and dead spiders.... Not a lot, but a few. Gross. But alas it also did not work. So I dunno. I have a list of other possible culprits so I guess its just process of elimination now.
Follow up: Just replaced the coolant temp sensor cause when I screwing it back in after checking it out the connector snapped off. HAD to get a new one. Still stalls out. Well it stalled almost all the way out the revved back up with a vengeance..... wtf. Oh, and uh... when removing the CTS the coolant will come squirting out like you hit a damn artery. Also, removing the radiator cap DOES NOT make the coolant level go down, as I thought but makes it flow like the mighty Mississippi. Sorry mother earth :-/
Follow up: Just replaced the coolant temp sensor cause when I screwing it back in after checking it out the connector snapped off. HAD to get a new one. Still stalls out. Well it stalled almost all the way out the revved back up with a vengeance..... wtf. Oh, and uh... when removing the CTS the coolant will come squirting out like you hit a damn artery. Also, removing the radiator cap DOES NOT make the coolant level go down, as I thought but makes it flow like the mighty Mississippi. Sorry mother earth :-/
Last edited by Jessica Lipka; Aug 10, 2013 at 01:30 PM.
In the pic mine looks like the one on the Left...
I've never had to R and R a fuel pressure regulator. I've never had one go south on me. let me do some digging and I'll get back to you. Just outta curiosity... You think the timing on the distributor maybe causing the stutter and rough idle?
Last edited by T...K21; Aug 11, 2013 at 06:30 PM. Reason: add additional
I have no idea. But if it is one of the MANY possiblities that can cause it to stall out then I will take a look at it. As long as I don't have to buy another Fing part.
So I went ahead and took off the distributor cap and rotor... They looked pretty cashed. Got new ones now the car wont start at all. Triple checked the wires and they're all attached to the correct plug and in the right order. So I don't know WTF to do now.
Follow up: Put the old cap back on with the new rotor and it works but still cuts out. I read that the notch that the rotor sits in needs to be in line with a little white mark on the side of the base but in order to align them you have to manually turn the crankshaft pulley. Something I have yet to find out how to do...
Follow up: Put the old cap back on with the new rotor and it works but still cuts out. I read that the notch that the rotor sits in needs to be in line with a little white mark on the side of the base but in order to align them you have to manually turn the crankshaft pulley. Something I have yet to find out how to do...
Last edited by Jessica Lipka; Aug 14, 2013 at 10:08 AM.
huh? Shouldn't have to manually turn crankshaft to align. Rotor slips on one way with notch aligning. Cap is same way. Double check your plug wires to see if they are pushed in all the way. If they are loose crimp them a bit for a snug fit. If you still have your multimeter...check the continuity of your wires.
huh? Shouldn't have to manually turn crankshaft to align. Rotor slips on one way with notch aligning. Cap is same way. Double check your plug wires to see if they are pushed in all the way. If they are loose crimp them a bit for a snug fit. If you still have your multimeter...check the continuity of your wires.



