2000 blazer check engine light flashing
#11
12-28-2022, 12:03 PM
Well George I guess I’m going to try and change the starter can’t see why it went back just changing that regulator but i put a screwdriver on the solenoids and it won’t crank and then I took the relay out and jumped the wires and still nothing not sure if this is the problem but I got it out which was a pain but I’m heading to get one now. Boy they put things tight five plugs were easy the last one had to unbolt the steering column and was reading for the starter would have to unbolt my transmission and jack it up but I somehow managed to slide it out god must be with me
#12
12-28-2022, 12:07 PM
[QUOTE=rockp2;746299]"Doesn't crank" means the engine won't turn at all. In other words the most you MGHT hear from the engine compartment is a click or series of clicks.
"...like it would it you had no gas in it or anything" means the engine turns over and over (aka as "cranks") but won't start.
Depending on which of the above it is will narrow things down and help George help you.
I also wonder what scan AutoZone used that stated the regulator as the problem? What was/were the codes? There is no DTC code that states that on these trucks. Or was it the AZ employee offering his/her diagnosis?
Be careful with their advice because it is their job to sell parts, especially if a store manager did it. They get measured very closely on sales. Parts solve everything in the auto parts store world. Scan the vehicle, get the code, sell the part.[/Q
Only code was p300 then it said my regulator needed to be changed along with my intake manifold gaskets. Ok I put the starter in and it almost turned over or seemed like it wanted to then I can hear the starter spinning but when I turn the key doesn’t crank as in how it would sound if it was out of gas it’s just a thud like sound
"...like it would it you had no gas in it or anything" means the engine turns over and over (aka as "cranks") but won't start.
Depending on which of the above it is will narrow things down and help George help you.
I also wonder what scan AutoZone used that stated the regulator as the problem? What was/were the codes? There is no DTC code that states that on these trucks. Or was it the AZ employee offering his/her diagnosis?
Be careful with their advice because it is their job to sell parts, especially if a store manager did it. They get measured very closely on sales. Parts solve everything in the auto parts store world. Scan the vehicle, get the code, sell the part.[/Q
Only code was p300 then it said my regulator needed to be changed along with my intake manifold gaskets. Ok I put the starter in and it almost turned over or seemed like it wanted to then I can hear the starter spinning but when I turn the key doesn’t crank as in how it would sound if it was out of gas it’s just a thud like sound
#14
12-28-2022, 12:20 PM
[QUOTE=climeyy;746302]
Take your battery to AZ and have them charge and test it. It's free and will be done in a couple hours or so. P0300 is a random misfire. When an AZ employee gets a code they enter it in their computer. The computer suggests RECOMMENDED fixes that are ranked highest to lowest based off of input (reported fixes) from technicians. However, that doesn't mean the recommended fix is your fix. P0300 is so broad that it could be caused by any of the three things you need air/fuel/fire. This forum has dealt with the problems so often that collectively you have a very good chance at diagnosing your problem w/o buying parts you don't need.
Edit: If it would help w/peace of mind, have AZ test your starter also to insure you didn't burn it up trying to start the truck.
"Doesn't crank" means the engine won't turn at all. In other words the most you MGHT hear from the engine compartment is a click or series of clicks.
"...like it would it you had no gas in it or anything" means the engine turns over and over (aka as "cranks") but won't start.
Depending on which of the above it is will narrow things down and help George help you.
I also wonder what scan AutoZone used that stated the regulator as the problem? What was/were the codes? There is no DTC code that states that on these trucks. Or was it the AZ employee offering his/her diagnosis?
Be careful with their advice because it is their job to sell parts, especially if a store manager did it. They get measured very closely on sales. Parts solve everything in the auto parts store world. Scan the vehicle, get the code, sell the part.[/Q
Only code was p300 then it said my regulator needed to be changed along with my intake manifold gaskets. Ok I put the starter in and it almost turned over or seemed like it wanted to then I can hear the starter spinning but when I turn the key doesn’t crank as in how it would sound if it was out of gas it’s just a thud like sound
"...like it would it you had no gas in it or anything" means the engine turns over and over (aka as "cranks") but won't start.
Depending on which of the above it is will narrow things down and help George help you.
I also wonder what scan AutoZone used that stated the regulator as the problem? What was/were the codes? There is no DTC code that states that on these trucks. Or was it the AZ employee offering his/her diagnosis?
Be careful with their advice because it is their job to sell parts, especially if a store manager did it. They get measured very closely on sales. Parts solve everything in the auto parts store world. Scan the vehicle, get the code, sell the part.[/Q
Only code was p300 then it said my regulator needed to be changed along with my intake manifold gaskets. Ok I put the starter in and it almost turned over or seemed like it wanted to then I can hear the starter spinning but when I turn the key doesn’t crank as in how it would sound if it was out of gas it’s just a thud like sound
Edit: If it would help w/peace of mind, have AZ test your starter also to insure you didn't burn it up trying to start the truck.
Last edited by rockp2; 12-28-2022 at 12:23 PM.
#15
12-30-2022, 10:25 PM
I would like to help you but we really need to slow down and diagnose the problem. Lets get a few definitions:
No Crank: you turn the ignition to start and the starter does not rotate the engine
Crank no start: when you turn the ignition key to start the starter engages and the engine rotates but the engine does not run
We need to get you to the point that your engine reliably cranks every time you turn the key to start. If thats not the case then we need to find out why which we can do. The problem with just replacing the starter is that now you may need to shim the new one to get proper flywheel engagement which is why we dont want to use the parts canon without testing first. With a helper crawl under the truck and have someone turn the key to start and then measure the voltage on the purple wire/post and then again on the large back cable/post.
When your down there listen to the starter. Does it sound like the bendix slams into the flywheel and the starter hums or does the starter gear spin but the engine does not crank?
After you are cranking reliably then we will find out why you wont run.
George
No Crank: you turn the ignition to start and the starter does not rotate the engine
Crank no start: when you turn the ignition key to start the starter engages and the engine rotates but the engine does not run
We need to get you to the point that your engine reliably cranks every time you turn the key to start. If thats not the case then we need to find out why which we can do. The problem with just replacing the starter is that now you may need to shim the new one to get proper flywheel engagement which is why we dont want to use the parts canon without testing first. With a helper crawl under the truck and have someone turn the key to start and then measure the voltage on the purple wire/post and then again on the large back cable/post.
When your down there listen to the starter. Does it sound like the bendix slams into the flywheel and the starter hums or does the starter gear spin but the engine does not crank?
After you are cranking reliably then we will find out why you wont run.
George
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