I just gave away a 4.3 that had 400k miles on it. Its been in 3 different trucks and the only real thing it needed was valve guides as it smoked a little on start up. 4.3's are a reliable if maintence is kept up. This engine I just gave to a friend of mine has had the oil changed on it religiously at 3k miles . He is putting it in another S series truck and plans to run it till the crankshaft falls out

 

first it's Blazer, not Blazor.

and, as my shop teacher always said, "there's never a stupid question, only a stupid answer", which is true, 'cause if ya knew the answer, you wouldn't be asking the question in the first place.

as for your truck being a gutless wonder, with no *****, maybe there's something wrong with it. i know these trucks aren't powered by a SBC, but they sure as hell aren't a slug. hve you looked into the exhaust for any restrictions? ie a bad cat maybe? the stock muffler is pretty restrictive as well, same as having exhaust manifolds compared to headers. there is room for potential gains in power, both bolt on & a PCM tune too.

and in regards to a stronger driveline, you can always get the trans rebuilt with all thegood clutches and what not in it, to handle alot more than it would stock, which is what i was originally refering to before.

i had a 700R4 in my p/u that was built to handle the 900 horse engine i was building, and the 4L60's are pretty much the same. notice how i said "pretty much", and "not exactly the same".

 

my bad i guess i didnt realize i was spelling blazor rather then blazer but well ill have to look into it then and try to free her up i just thought that it would have a little more power but idk ill try some bolt ons i guess. then again idk this blazer is only a ls blazer its not the off road one it has the 4 wheel drive thats about it though nothing to special so idk if the other blazers have more ***** but ill see what i can get i think i need to bring it in the shop tomarrow because when i get on it it just has nothing on the low end but once it starts getting to the higher rpms then she goes i dont know ill see. whats a good place to look for headers? ebay? oh and i want to get a brush guard. thanks for all the help everyone

 

ok kylem40, we need to set something straight here. you really need to put in punctuation in your posting-it makes it so much easier to read.

now on to your last post...........

is your truck only a 2WD? the "LS" is only a trim option, not a designation of the drivetrain. my '98 LS Blazer is 4WD and a 4 door (see what i'm getting at?).

and the engine is the 4.3 "W" code Vortec-in all of the trucks. 2WD or 4WD, 2 door or 4 door, even those nasty *** ZR2 (this is the factory lifted, 2 door only Blazer), they have the same engine, and it's something like 200 HP, not to bad for a "slouch".

before you start going and changing out parts, why not see why your truck won't "get up and go". 'cause they usually have the "get up and go" on the bottom end, and it's usually the top end (for passing above 60 to 70 MPH) that suffers.

 

yeah its a 4wd 4door blazer. i just havent had the time to really check it out but then again im not really sure what im looking for. like where to start as to why i have no low end power. like if you put the gas to the floor it just accelerates slowly, like hesitates but once it gets between 3 and 4 thousand rmps then itll take off. something is holding it back i just dont know where to start looking. or is it supposed to be that way? any good places to start looking to figure it out. i guess i should check the plugs n wires to make sure they are good that cud hold it back right? i donk know, any ideas?

 

oh and whats a good place to get a lift kit? id like to lift it up

 

sorry for all these questions. im not great with al this typing and so sorry if its bad i just hate asking so much whats this whats that i feel like a idiot i just no nothing about chevys plain and simple.

 

the biggest thing you should do around the forum, don't post 3 posts within 7 minutes. just go to your last post and click on the "edit" icon @ the bottom of that post.

i'm surprised no one has mentioned that to you yet.

and don't worry about all the questions, it's how we all learn. i'd be asking a bunch of questions about a Bronco, if i was on a Ford forum. something along the lines of, "What the hell am i doing here?!? i don't wanna own a Furd, and you can't make me like it!" hahahahaha!

 

Hey, I know I only have 1 post here on this forum and now this is only my second post, but I do believe I have some credibility when it comes to these kinds of things. I'm an ASE certified 'Master Tech' for 10 years, and started building my first 5.0L Mustang when I was 14 years old and am 36 now. Judging on how this kid sounds, let me give my opinion. If I were him, I would give this truck a nice thorough look-over, to make sure it's worth sinking a bunch of money into. Then if I determined that it IS worth it (not all rusted out and needing 1 of everything Autozone sells), I'd pull it in, and give it a good base tune-up, and compression test to make sure that the motor at least has what it takes to be a smooth runner even at its current mileage, and once I've done that, I'd continue to try and determine the cause of the hesitation or lack of power below 4k RPMs. Get it running nice first. If the motor is terminally ill, then he can decide where to go from there. If the motor has good compression, and responds well to the tune-up and he fixes the hesitation problem, then next step, is I'd change all the fluids on the whole truck. Then check all the other stuff like ball joints, steering, suspension, drivetrain general health, etc. Start making a COMPREHENSIVE list of every little thing it needs to bring it back to pretty nice shape (mechanically, and aesthetically). Fix anything that the truck needs that is part of the truck. If you're not sure if you eventually want a V-8 or not yet, then postpone some of the maintenance issues relating to the motor/trans for now (still change all of the fluids though regardless). Get the rig in as good of shape as possible first. Then drive it for a few months, or perhaps even up to a year. If you decide that a V-8 is still what you really want and need, then start planning for it. DO NOT disassemble the truck yet. Make your plan first. If it were me and I were going to do this (I did actually put a 350 Chevy into a friend's Toyota 4x4 once), I would start out with a very mild engine that has room to grow from. The power-to-weight ratio is a bit higher in a smaller truck with a V-8 so you don't need like a 400hp powerhouse or anything. Start with a 250-300hp engine. You don't need to do a lot of fancy stuff to the drivetrain if you are starting out, unless you are one of those mudder-from-hell guys who plan to take it out bogging every weekend. Your average enthusiast guy will not have a problem with the factory transfer case. However, as the other guy stated, the transmission should be at least upgraded to 5.7L specs. I think there is a one-way sprang, a drum and a few clutch-packs that are beefier on the V-8 unit. One easy method to getting these parts is to buy the same or similar year Chevy full-size 4x4 5.7L truck that is all wrecked and use that for a base to get your parts from. You can then use motor, trans, computer, computer harness (if needed), and possibly even the transfer case if desired. I would still be comfortable using the stock Blazer trans case on a mild 250-300hp 5.7L swap though FYI. And as far as the differentials go, the rear axle is plenty strong IF you change out the carrier assembly and replace the open diff with a good aftermarket posi like an Auburn diff or something like that, and on the front diff, if the truck will be a mild setup where you are not hammering on it relentlessly, you can leave that alone. That would be stage I. And it also depends on tire diameter. Since you are planning to jack it up, if you put really large diameter tires on, it will REALLY stress the axles and carrier (spider gears) a lot more, and thus parts breakage will be more a part of life. If you keep reasonable diameter tires, you can get away with the stock axle assemblies with the heavier carrier. If you want stage II, then replace both differential carrier units with air-lockers for advanced off-road use (I have done this twice on smaller trucks with high HP engines and they do work nice. Now for stage III all out you like to really hammer on things, the Toyota 4x4 that I swapped with a 350 V-8, my friend wanted it really tough so we put in full-size (old style big) Blazer 6-lug axles in front and rear of it. His had the old straight-axle Toyota frame so this was a sinch, only had to have 4-inches narrowed from one side and 8-inches narrowed from the other side to make it fit. AND the Toyota rims 6-lug bolt pattern fit DIRECTLY onto the full-size Blazer axle lug studs. So perfect I remember that being. Projects like this ARE fun to do, but before you disassemble anything, you might want to make sure you have a spare car to drive because these projects will always take longer than you perceive if you are not experienced in doing them. I do agree with the other guy that some people can get buried over their heads in a project like this, so it would be wise to make sure you do your research first and don't tackle this kind of project in your apartment's car-port. Make sure you have a garage at best, or better yet, if a buddy has a nice pole-barn with bright lights, benches and a cement floor this is better. Reward them by cleaning it up nice every day for him letting you use it for your project. There will much of the time be some fabrication tasks involved so make sure you have access to cutting torches, welders, grinders, etc. Much of this kind of thing can be minimized though, if you start with a donor car, and you've done your research into what other parts you need, and if you buy prefab parts like motor mounts, headers, oil pan, and all that from a website like the URL address I cited to you in my first post. My first non-standard engine swap (5.7L Chevy Engine into Ford Mustang) never had websites that sold prefab parts, so we had to make our own motor mounts and cut up headers and re-weld the pipes so they would fit the car, and make oil pans with custom sump configs etc. Lots of man-hours. The Toyota 4x4 I put the 5.7L into I had to make the motor mount brackets, and modify the pan sump shape, and we took some short-tube headers and built custom headpipes for it, but you, your lucky, websites are available that sell all that stuff to make your job easier. You can even get some of the parts all nice and CHROME even.

I don't claim to know everything, in fact, I've probably forgotten more than I ever knew about doing swaps as it has been a long time since I've done one, but let me tell you, you will learn a lot along the way. You will learn how to be clever with your brain, and learn how to use you hands better. I don't have a bad thing to say about someone wanting to tackle a project like this, except just make sure you think it through, and again, make sure you have a spare car. Also, just so you know, when I got involved with forums long ago (very good resource), my grammer and punctuation improved 100-fold along the way, and I even became a faster reader! Except, I'm still trying to learn how to split my paragraphs up a little better. Never quite mastered that one

GOOD LUCK.

 

thanks for all the help and advise! im sorry about all the mistakes and how i write ive been trying to get better since ive been getting all the tips from everyone but i just cant seem to get it i guess. for the year and how many miles my blazer has. its really not bad it has no rust that i can see. i dont plan on jacking it sky high not with this thing. i just want to lift it a little. sorry for sounding stupid here. its sad cuz im going to school for auto tech and here i am sounding like an idiot. anyways thanks for the tips the advise and everything else im thankfull that someone willing to say something rather then just read it and laugh at least so thanks everyone