Odd idle issue:
Starts up, idles normal from cold start all the way to normal operating temp. When I go from Park to any other gear, the engine surges for up to 30 seconds, then returns to normal. Runs and drives fine, doesn't do anything odd at stop signs or traffic lights. But as soon as I pull into a parking space and shift to Park, it stalls. Fires right back up, mo problem.
So the question is, what would cause a surge going out of Park and then a stall going into Park. Also, there are no codes. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

 

Mine did that.. I believe it was directly related to a pretty large vacuum leak, my "hat" (Intake manifold, upper) was all messed up. Do you hear any "suck" sounds when it turns off?

Sometimes, it majorly did that. Other times.. not so bad. I would check the hat for vacuum leaks first.

 

Will get on that in the near future. Thanks!
Meanwhile, I bought a set of lift supports for the back glass. The description specifically said they were for the 4 door model with the drop gate, which is what I have. But my supports have a wrist pin connection on the glass, whereas the replacements have a socket connector. Am I going to have to change the connection on the glass?
edit:
For some bizarre reason there were 2 different kinds of supports for the exact same setup. I ordered the wrong ones. Another GM anomaly strikes again.

 

Not bad, wish i had a place big enough to put 1/2 dozen Blazers of my own!

 

Installed new 99+ side mirrors. To make them work I cut the wiring off the old mirrors and the harness off the donor truck and spliced them together with the help of wiring diagrams available here (thanks again forums). Pretty straightforward, only 4 to do. This way, if I ever need to replace the mirror, it's plug and play.👍

 

You have a great platform. It has been taken good care of. Enjoy, you made a great purchase.

 

So today I took the passenger door panel off to begin a total rebuild of the door. Started with upgrading the power mirror to 99+', which required some wiring the different plugs so they would play nice together. Piece of cake, thanks forums. Next was the power window regulator. This particular task kicked my entire ***. If you ever have to do that job, it would be well worth it to hire a helper. I had to remove the speaker baffle to allow for wiggle room and still caught hell.
Since I had the baffle out, I went ahead and upgraded the speaker with an Alpine component speaker. Lastly, I prepped the panel with new retainers and a new pull handle. All that's left now is to mount the baffle/speaker back on the door and reinstall the panel. Whew, what a job it's been! But will be totally worth it when I'm done. Hopefully will get the driver's door done tomorrow. Thankfully I don't have to mess with the regulator on that one.
Almost forgot to ask, should I put some kind of lube in the tracks for the rollers on the regulator?

Couldn't get to that top one to replace the rivet but I think it will be ok. Tested and worked fine.

Soldered the two plugs together so if I ever have to replace the mirror it will be plug and play.

getting the wiring harness to connect with the speaker was hell. Had to take the plastic off the terminals.

Bought two sets of these. The other set is going in my 03 S-10.

New retainer clips and handle.

 

What means this?

 

I tried using the dash cluster from my 01 parts blazer thinking it would give me my odometer reading back, but it did not. In fact, the only gauges that worked were oil pressure and voltage. This cluster worked perfectly when I parked the 01 so I don't think it's faulty. Could it be because of the difference in year model? I don't see how but anything is possible.

 

Don't really know if a vacuum leak is your issue. If it is i was shown this trick many years ago and it works. You will need a small propane torch. Get your vehicle running and take the propane torch and barely crack the valve on it, pass it around all your vacuum hoses. If the engine speeds up you have found your leak.