Driver side door hinge creaky - loud!
#16
BF Veteran
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,891











the secret is tension. without the top pin the door places a ton of weight on the bottom pin, to relieve that tension use a floor jack and a block of wood. raise the door. too much and you still have tension, its a balancing thing.
PS WD-40 is NOT a lubricatant. WD-40 stands for Water Displacing 40th attempt. It was designed to displace water, like as a protective coating on metal. It has very limited grease abilities, and NO rust eating properties.
For rusty parts I prefer PB BLaster or Kroil, however Kroil is not sold commercially.
The best thing is grease, I prefer graphite in powder form. Graphite is a lubricant, however it doesnt draw dirt like grease does. The best place to use dry graphite is your door locks. It will prevent them from freezing up, and keep them luricated. Plus it wont draw in moisture or dirt. You can find it in the hobby section, or most autoparts stores carry it. We used it to grease the axles on our Pinewood Derby cars too.
PS WD-40 is NOT a lubricatant. WD-40 stands for Water Displacing 40th attempt. It was designed to displace water, like as a protective coating on metal. It has very limited grease abilities, and NO rust eating properties.
For rusty parts I prefer PB BLaster or Kroil, however Kroil is not sold commercially.
The best thing is grease, I prefer graphite in powder form. Graphite is a lubricant, however it doesnt draw dirt like grease does. The best place to use dry graphite is your door locks. It will prevent them from freezing up, and keep them luricated. Plus it wont draw in moisture or dirt. You can find it in the hobby section, or most autoparts stores carry it. We used it to grease the axles on our Pinewood Derby cars too.
#17
I did use a floor jack and a piece of cardboard, and played with the jack height a fair amount, but couldn't ever get the pin to budge. Should I try removing the bottom pin first? And how do I know when the door is at the right height to release the tension and let the pin come out?
#18
Got it done. Hit it with PB Blaster for a couple of days first, on general principles, then jacked it up again and the pin moved without much trouble. Couldn't get the bushings out until I gave up and broke them into pieces while still in the holes. Drove the new bushings in, put the door back in place, drove the pins in, put the little rings on them...and then discovered the door detent cam I'd moved out of the way to get easier access to the upper bushing was still out of the way.
Took the pins back out, moved the cam back into place, put the pins back in, installed the spring, lubed everything up with spray white lithium grease, called it done.
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