The reason load resistors would get hot is that it is a resistor that is resisting like 25+watts per bulb since the normal bulbs are like 26-30watt bulbs and the LED's only draw like 3-5watts. Some LED taillights won't light up because the system thinks the bulb is burnt out and won't send power to the bulb since it draws so little wattage/current. This is the reason for load resistors, pretty much they trick the light system into thinking there is a bulb there and therefore the lights get the correct amount of power. Hope this helps.

I am not sure if you would need both the load resistors and the flasher module, the only reason why I mentioned that is because some systems (not blazers) need them from what I have heard from multiple sources to get the bulbs to light up right and then to flash at the correct speed instead of super fast.

 

The load resistors are most likely needed for the vehicles that tell you, you have a burnt out bulb.

Other than that, they'll slow the flashing down... Which is just as easilly done with a heavy duty flasher... I guess which one you want to use depends on which one is easiest to do, lol.

 

I purchased these tails and used 360 degree LED bulbs. I had to install inline with the turn signal wire the load resistor.

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I recently went the All-LED rear tail light route on my 2000 Blazer and had the fast turn signal problem. Pairs of the 3157R lamps at AutoZone were $16.99ea (if you can find a store that has them in stock). Hazard lights worked normal speed though. Wasn't in the mood to splice in the load equalizers which were $12/pair so instead I went to PepBoys and bought a replacement EP29 flasher $12.99 to replace the OEM Siemens one. Flipped the glove box down and replaced the flasher (behind a damn green strap) and it works like new again and the LED turn signals work great (and hopefully won't burn out). Just make sure you get an EP29 flasher that says "LEDS" on the flasher itself...

I replaced the front marker/turn signal lights (the small ones) with the 4-LED lamp, those were easy to find, at Advance Auto Parts... but since AutoZone is all out of the 3157R's I haven't been able to get the front lower big turn signals replaced with LEDs yet. Now when I hit the brakes or use the turn signal (even with the 3157 incandescent bulbs still in the front) the interior lights don't dim down, really shows how much less current those LEDs use.

I love LEDs. Next, I will hopefully replace all the interior bulbs with mixed red/blue/white LED bulbs for a cool/hot effect. That will be pimpin.

 

You'd want the 3157NA or 3157A for the fronts... Unless you want to have chats with your local law enforcement...

 

Dammit. I already bought the load resistors. Hmmmm....

Dougm -- I'm curious to know what year your Blazer is. It's very possible that one's ability to do what you suggested (regarding the EP29) depends on the year of the truck.

Raph

 

If you read the beginning of his ist you'll see its a 2000. Just for your info.

 

Duh to me. I must have been sleepy or something when I posted that.

My resistors have arrived at the post office. I'm installing them tomorrow. For anybody that's done this before, is there anything I should know before I start?

 

well at least if you run with red LED light's in the rear, you wont have to worry about a lens getting a crack and showing white light at the rear. (some states, like Florida) it's illegal for white light to show at the rear tail lens assy. and can get you pulled over and ticketed!! about 75 bucks plus court cost.

 

So did we ever get a part # for the whole taillamp assembly done in LED's?